fUEL PUMP VACUUM LINE

("57 CJ-5) I'm having carb problems. I'm working through it one part at a time. I pulled the fuel pump, one line comes from the fuel tank the other is a vacuum line ...I think. Anyway, what does the other end of the vacuum line go to? The line is coiled about 10 feet worth of hose with a screw in the end of it. That can't be right. What is it supposed to connect to? -G

 

The hose goes to the factory vacuum operated windshield wiper motors. Goes through the firewall, through the dash and up the driver side of the windshield frame. I believe originally there was a metal tube on the w/s frame but could be mistaken on that.

 

Windshield wipers? WINDSHIELD WIPERS? We don't have no stinkin' windshield wipers!! I think I'll just keep the screw in the other end. Thanks. -G

 

Exactly what kind of carb problems are you having?

 

Everything was fine a few weeks ago. I took the jeep out recently and after a few miles it just sputtered a couple times, I gave it a little gas and it just stalled. I started it again, drove for about 50 feet and sputtered out again. Now it won't even turn over. I have to assume it has something to do with the carb or fuel pump. The line from the fuel tank to the pump is clear. I pulled the fuel pump to check it out and noticed that the vacuum line just went nowhere, a few feet of hose with a screw in the end of it. I also pulled the air filter with the oil in it and cleaned it out repainted it and reinstalled it. Jeep still won't start so I'm taking it one step at a time. -G

 

I ask because I have had stalling,engine wont idle or run just above idle, hard starting and low speed sputtering with mine awhile back. It would run however if I kept the throttle up a little. Traced it to rust particles from the fuel tank and had to put a filter between the tank and pump ( a clear one so i can keep an eye on it ).

I would clean the low speed jet and it would run for about 50 yards then stall again, Did this 3 times before I removed the carb for a thorough inspection. I found upon dissasembly that a substantial volume of rust particles large enough to completely plug the idle/low speed jet had accumulated in the bottom of the main jet well, Had to remove the main jet to wash them all out

 

I've had similar problems with mine. "Ran for a while then it would stall. Started right back up drove 50 feet and it would die." I've tried a full tune up, rebuilt carb, new fuel pump, ....

Last night I was going through a box of stuff that I was given with the jeep and found an old distributor. There's some kind of gasket under the points that mine doesn't have. I'm guessing that I'm probably grounding out the points.

 

I pulled the fuel pump and checked the line between the gas tank and the pump. I'm also installing a fuel filter in there. Next I'll check the fuel line between the pump and the carb. Then I'll check the carb. I blew out the fuel pump. There was alot of gunk in it. I'll tackel the carburetor this weekend. The points looked clean and the distributor hasn't moved. We will find this terror and send it back into the bowels of hell from which it emereged! blah blah blah!

 

I went through exactly the same thing, plus the fact I could reset the points to factory specs and it would run for a day. Next day, no go. Ran like a one-legged spider in a 7-legged spider race. Certified mechanic that lives across the street couldn' t understand it either. Went through the carb first, then the pump, then pulled the tank and went through it. Pulled the distributer and checked bushings and all.:evil:
Even check the wiring from the battery out.

Went out and bought a Pertronix unit for it. BINGO! Runs like a rapped ape!monkeys

Evidently the spring for the points had lost it's sprung.

 

When you say "Pertronix unit", what exactly was it that you bought? Just the points, the whole distributor, the rotor or what?? My jeep is a "57 cj5". What type do you have?

 

I pulled the distributor cap off, couldn't find anything out of the ordinary. I tried to pull the rotor off, I think I bent the metal tab (don't know the proper name). Put the cap back then tried to start it. Nothing. A couple cough's out of the carb, a couple flames and then nothing. Plenty of gas though. I think I'll replace the cap and rotor also, give that a try.

 

Points and condenser are cheap. Put some new ones in, set them, install new cap and rotor, and at least that should eliminate a couple more possibilities.

 

There is actually a gauge for testing point spring tension measured in ounces. I think I've still got a couple of them at work.... Haven't been used in ages. It's marked in #'s but also good, marginal, and replaceR). One of those things that most certified mechanics nowadays have either never dealt with or has been so long for them they don't even think of...

 

Well I'm running out of options so I'll try that. Thanks.

 

My fuel pump has two vacuum lines, the one mentioned and one that goes to a fixture on the intake manifold just below the carb. From that fixture a small vac line goes to the heater controls and a large hose which includes an egr valve goes to the top of the valve cover. Make sure you don't have a vacuum leak in that area. My engine would run poorly until all of that was hooked up correctly.

 

I use to have a 1969 Nissan Patrol, (just imagine getting parts for those)! Ihad the same problem, thinking that it was in the fuel system. It turned out to be in the distributor. A: the points were grounding out, they had a build up of crud, B: where the wire entered the distributor body it was worn down and shorting out. During this little fix I had noticed that the point wire fork terminal it had spread out and this made it touch the point plate when the distributor advanced. I hope this helps a little.

 

While you are in there see if the distributer shaft moves (just shake with your hand). It shouldn't. It will increase/decrease the gap in the plugs.

Also get a voltmeter (or test light) and see if you are getting juice to the points with the ignition on. Mine's got a grommet going through the distributor (nonconductive). It was missing and grounding out on the stud going through the distributor housing. Sometimes it would start and sometimes it wouldn't.

Now to fix the high heat problem....