full float conversion

In converting my 57 cj5 to full float, there is an option of either hubs or flanges. Any advantage to either? I don't plan on towing my vehicle. I will be using for some off road, no rock crawling, and driving on the road to and from work, around town. Thanks, Paul

 

Biggest advantage to hubs is the ability to flat tow. If using Warn hubs, then you might be able to use Warn's Hub "fuses". Fuse acts like a shear bolt to protect other components. I have heard mixed reviews onn the "fuses".

 

I run drive flanges as they are stronger for Jeeping in my opinion.
If I have towed the Jeep somewhere, then the hubs stay on the Jeep for that trip.

 

My jeep has a 283 engine. Although I won't predominantly use it for offroad driving, I thought the torque from the 283 would best be served with a FF rearend for strength reasons. I also thought about converting to rear discs...Would it be the same conversion as the front listed here on the tech pages? SInce my jeep is a body off frame build up, I wanted to do the mods as it is built. I want to do mods that make the jeep more driver friendly, durable, and safer (ie disc brakes, dual reservoir MC, etc..) Naturally upgrading the rear to FF seems to be the best for the rear according to what I read in this forum.

 

Big advantage of a full floater is, if you break an axle you can pull the broken bits out, and drive home on the front,
I've done it twice now

 

I see. So that seems like a viable option, to use the original and wait to rebuld later if needed. It would save some money. I would then still need to upgrade to 11 inch rear drums for better braking. My wife would not mind spending less on the Jeep. Hmmmmm.... Decisions decisions.

 

Cost is a big issue. Have you read this?

http://earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56172

Worst case senerio.

 

Could also look around for a offset flanged 44 out of a 70-71 CJ. good and strong, 30 spline, so lots of options as far as lockers etc. Just an other option.

 

Ouch Scott!
It can be done much cheaper than that but I understand the quandary you were in. Shafts through R&P ready to go from Dutchman are about $450 for the pair. With a little scrounging and homework (following the write up) you can do the whole thing for around $800-900.

Haven't been ignoring you Warloch, but I noticed there already is a write up on the ff. Mine wouldn't be too much different.... Nickmil

 

Dan-You can use the same Chevy parts front and rear without the FF also. That's what I used.

 

They will do 19 or 30 spline on the inner end last time I checked. 27 spline on the outer end.
No way of getting out of machine work, but that only needs to be done to the spindles or pay ridiculous price for the Warn spindles. I'd get some oem spindles and machine them, much cheaper and as long as you aren't doing crowd-pleaser jumps they hold up just fine. The only real custom parts with the diy ff is the spindles and the shafts. Everything else is off the shelf (or out of the wrecking yard) parts.

 

Glad it's done.

Going too try it out this weekend.

 

COOL!:driving: You do realize we will expect pics!