Some Unanswered Questions About lift

I was looking at getting the BDS 2.5" lift for my '73 CJ5 and put it on this summer but had a couple of questions. I have a Dana 60 rear and a T-18 tranny. I am running 12.5 X 33's and they are brand new. I was wondering if the kit would work w/ the Dana 60, as I believe it's the same diameter as the 44. Any special things I should consider when dealing w/ the T-18?

Also, I believe I have to replace my stock shackles before I can do any lift, so I was wondering if I should do the BDS lift and 1/2-3/4" greasable shackle lift or just buy the Black Diamond 3" and buy shackles w/ 0 -1/4" lift. I think I'll prob have to shim the rear, but it's already shimmed, as well as the front for caster. ??? Do I have a lift and can't tell? It has Rancho 5000 shocks on it, but the springs and everything are stock (no numbers or anything).



I don't think I'll have to do anything w/ my brake lines on the rear as there looks to be plenty of line there, but I'll jack it up and make sure. Anything else I'm forgetting? Oh and btw I'm trying to stay away from a 4" lift because I don't want to buy a CV, extend all my brake lines, dropped pitman arm, etc. Thanks so much for all of your help!

 

Forgot to mention - you can see some of the rear panel damage from the PO, so I think I'll be trimming the rear fenders just a little also. As as far as buying my lift, I see that Bob Supplee's name comes up a lot, so I'll prob just buy it from him. Thanks again!

 

I think a Dana 60 would have 3" or 3 1/4" tubes (not sure of the exact size). But they would be bigger than a flanged 44 which would be 2 3/4". At any rate, I imagine you'll be modifying your spring plates and requiring larger U-bolts. Looks like your CJ is sitting at stock height (which is not high enuff for 33's). If you're going to wheel it hard, you might want to think about a combination that gives you 4" of lift which is what is really recommended for 33" tires.

 

I am buying a 4 inch lift tomorrow.

the list of what I am getting in this thread What do you speak of when you say CV, is there still more I need with my lift?

 

i'm not too clear myself with regards to lift. i was just about to pull the trigger on a bds 2.5", but still not sure...

someone chime in:
-i'm under the assumption that a 4" lift will require new driveshafts front and rear, right?
-does stock yj spring set offer any lift?...what about drivetrain modifcations to do this (besides spring hangers, shackles, spring plates)?
-does a 4" lift have too much arch to achieve good flex and articulation?

oh,and the cv-he's talking about too much angle on the rear driveshaft and needing to get a cv joint style driveshaft (or a double jointed), and possiblly a slip yoke eliminator (i'm guessing)

 

they make kits that lower the X-fer case so you dont run into that problem. The kit I was origanlly gunna get, the 4wd.com one came with it, but peicing it all together the way I did saved me about 150 bones. And from what I have been told is that the articulation is not really effected, but I could be wrong, but then again I like mud pits alot better than any thing else I have run on witch aint much, mainly I ran by the canals in New Orleans when i lived there.

 

I just added a dropped pitman arm to my cart on 4wd.com dunno if I am gunna get it though, is it really needed?

 

Some people go with a 2.5" lift, a 1" body lift and slightly extended shackles, all of which together could get you 4" of lift.

 

A body lift would just open up a can of worms for me right now, my jeep is my DD and I cant afford to take the time to lift the body, bseides I would have to patch up the rust though on the body when the bolts and bushing run through. Later on though, when I have another car for a DD the jeep will be lifted again, I eventually want around 6 or 7 inches of lift. I like the tall.

 

Another thing that I'm running into on a t-case drop is the cross member that the PO installed to support the T-18 and the Dana 20. So I think that's pretty much out simply for the fact I don't want my clearance to decrease. That and I don't know if the kit is compatible w/ my set-up. I don't plan on wheeling it real hard, so I think a total 3" inch lift, w/ some new greasable shackles will be the way to go. I can always get a 1" body lift if I really need any more room. I think at this point I'm going to get the BDS 2.5" kit, and maybe do a BL later on if I really need more clearance. And as I said, I'm going to have to do some trimming on the rear fenders, even though I really don't want to.

Here's a pic of that crossmember I'm talking about. Right in the center of the tub.

 

This is exactly what I did with my 74. I went with the MORE greasable shackles and they work great. I did not do a T/C drop and don't need it with my set-up.

 

On the U-bolt question you're gonna have to measure the tube diameter. 60's came with anywhere from a 2 3/4" diameter tube (same as a flanged 44) up to 3 1/8" diameter depending on which 60 was narrowed to fit. If yours is larger than 2 3/4" then you most likely will need to go to a parts house and purchase some as most lift kits come with u-bolts for the stock axles. Sometimes you can order the correct u-bolts with the kit though for your axle. Again, you can't just tell them you have a 60, you need to tell them what diameter tubes you have. Nickmil

 

hey i have a 73 cj5 and bought the bds 2.5'' lift also with shocks. i have longer shackles and the lift and thats its. no shims or drop pitman arm, no transfer drop. stock 44 in rear and 30 in front. but it rides like a log truck. the ride sucks all the way around. hope you have good springs in your seats! i went with the bds due to having a large front bumper and p.t.o. winch. skyjacker and rubicon may be softer from what i was told and might sag in front if you have a heavy bumper and winch. only thing i had to modify is drill out the holes in the spring plates b/c the new u-bolts were larger diameter then the old ones were. everything went on really smooth take your time and plan ahead. i'm running 32'' x 9'' x 16'' super swamper TSL"S NYLON, no cutting on my jeep was needed at all also running 2'' inch thick spacers all the way around aswell. I think i could have went with 33's'' or maybe 34's'' with no problem. mine is not a daily driver at all just a toy. my tires are not even balanced.

 

With a T-18 and a 4" lift, you will need a new rear cv drive shaft and rotate the rear axle so pinion is pointing about 1.5 degrees below the centerline of the tansfer case rear output centerline at u-joint. I recommend flipping u bolts because of the larger diameter tubes on the D60.
Most who have a D60 go spring over, but therein is a whole new can of worms.