removing dana 18 transfer case

i have a sm420 tranny advanced adapter and a dana 18 transfer case. i am trying to remove the transfer case and wanted to know if i had to take any thing other then the mounting bolts to remove case other then shifter brakes driv shaft. i have the mounting bolts lose but it does not seem to be moving. thanks in advanced. time to and wait for a response thanks.

 

Depending on if it is a larger whole or small you may need to remove the bull gear. But it should move with the bolts out. It does have a gasket between the trans and case so it might just need broke loose.
Keith

 

yes i removed the bolt on the front of the case, is the bull gear a right or a left hand thread and is an impact ok or just a socket

 

did you remove the overdrive gear? pop the circle plate off the back, four bolts, and that big cog will be looking right at you. the gear i am talking about is on the back of the transmission in the picture

my question is does the transmission still shift? if not you lost the bearings, and are at the bottom of the case.

just friggin ask me how i know

 

I do not have an overdrive, the transmision works great, the transfer case works 4wd and all, unfortunetly the case is cracked,so i am trying to get it out so i can take the case and a spare case and make them one , and this is my second project master cylinder was first, also notice bent front drive shaft, i have owened it for two weeks and just keep spending money, i thought it was in better shape all i really want is a stero but its got to stop bleading on the garage floor, i am tired of moving the plywood around, and now the e-brake doesnt work (probably from all the gear oil. but anyway i have an adapter plate so i did not go as far as you did!

 

Righty Tighty lefty loosey on the bull gear nut.

I had to take it off with my big bore case IIRC to get it off the easiest.

 

Don't forget there's a cotter pin holding the gear's nut on. Well, my D18 I had just one nut holding the big gear on. Got it off with some needle nose pliars

 

Well i got it out, there was no cotter pin just a nut with nylon does anyone know what the spec for torque should be when i reinstall. oh and i guess it is a bad idea to remove transfer case buy yourself damn near killed meR)

 

130-170 on that mainshaft nut.

 

Is that right? All I've ever removed were just over hand tight with a cotter pin in them.
Keith

 

Interesting. My FSM lists 80-110 lbs. ft. I'll check my other manuals at home tonight and see what they say....
Nickmil

 

Thanks Nick
I would be interested in finding out what it should be. I just swapped a d18 on a 50 cj3 and the nut was just over hand tight. I don't think it had ever been removed.
Keith

 

I just spoke with Don down at Border Parts and he told me 150lbs on the bull gear

 

Thanks.. Guess I had better re-torque it before I install the trans.. Wonder why the original one was so loose..
Keith

 

I checked my books at home and they said 150-170 lbs. ft. The book I have at work shows the lower torque spec. Only thing I can think of for the descrepancy is the book I have at work (FSM) goes only up to 1965. Some of the early T-90's had an output shaft that was hollow where the cotter pin goes through to keep the main shaft nut from backing off. All the later ones were solid in that area. That would explain the different torque specs. My books at home go up much later.... Thoughts anyone? Nickmil

 

how do yuo get the old seal out of the yoke side and the break side if they do not want to come out

 

Cussing, swearing, , and when that doesn't work I take a small chisel, catch the edge of the seal and drive it towards the middle of the bore. I work my way around the seal until I can pop it out. What this does is kind of peel the metal ring away from the housing bore and relieves some of the tension so it can be removed. Be very careful not to scar up the bore! Nickmil