Yet another carb thread

Here we go again.. My Jeep is a 1980 CJ5 with the 258 and a carter 2bbl pre emissions carb. I can't remember the designation off the top of my head, but it's the one with the idle tubes that clog up all the time. I've cleaned the tubes, rebuilt the carb, followed the Haynes manual for adjustments, and it still runs cruddy. It mildly floods over when parked, and runs rich. I've adjusted the float (copper floats, no leaks, I checked) examined the needle valve (it's clean and properly installed) double checked all the gaskets, I'm fairly certian they are all right, and checked the throttle shaft. It all looks ok.
Peeking down into the float bowl while its running it dosen't look like it's flooding, I don't see any drips on the venturies, but the thing will foul out a cylinder or two while I'm driving, and revving it up dosen't help.
While it sits overnight it leaks fuel into the intake (then down into the crank. I've done several oil changes because of it)
It runs beautiful if I bring it into the shop and let it breath warm air. and it also runs good if I drive it somewhere, then let it sit for 10-15 min and restart it, but it steadily returns to skipping over the course of a couple of miles.
I also do have the heat riser and the flapper in the air cleaner installed and working.
Should I just scrap it and get a Webber, or am I missing something stupid.
I can dial in a set of SU carbs like nothing, but this things kickin me.
Anybody got a webber thay wanna sell??? I don't have the $300 Quadratec wants right now.
Thanks for puttin up with me
Hope yer all havin fun in this snow! I know I am! even runnin bad it's still a hoot!

 

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/278319370.html

Sounds like the BBD blues. Sorry not much help on this but at least there's a link to a Weber. Nickmil

 

for performance issues, have you adjusted the metering rods by the book ?
the other problems sound related to heat soak and/or fuel return problems.
Are you using a fuel filter with the return port on it ?
is it open and working properly ?
is the fuel return system to the tank hooked up ?
after engine shut down, heat soaks into the carb; this causes the fuel to expand; if no return line, it will push by the needle and seat and flood the engine until the bowl empties or engine cools down.
are you using the factory gaskets/insulators at the base of the carb ?

 

There's also that guy on e-Bay that will sell you a turnkey 2100/2150 for about half the cost of the Redline kit. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Moto...ryZ33550QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
<edit> well, maybe not half ... a lot less though.

 

Thanks for the link Lynn.. I'll definatly be looking into that idea.
jpflat2a, Yes metering needles adjusted as per book, and fuel return system in place. I have checked to see that the return line is clear. All gaskets are stock type, and the charcoal canister is unhooked completely. also the EGR is unhooked, and the heat riser flapper in the exhaust manifold is free and working ok....
Ah well.. I'm gonna park it for a little while whilst I figure out what I can do, before I destroy the engine

 

hijack for a minute please::evil:

lynn i am about to let you lead me back to a carb. i have holley pro jection and am really frustrated with it. runs way to rich no matter what. when you get it to idle perfect other settings are off... once everything is set good for ya the weather changes and it runs like crap all over again.... when its on its on.... but damn is it touchy

whats the best carb/intake for me for offroading

hijack off, thank you

 

I have the stock Carter YF and I'm fairly happy with how it runs, and I still have a points set. I'm not sure why but I've had to replace my float a few times. It's cleared up since and performs well when warm. Even when cold.

 

Strider, Does your carb have the foam floats? if so certian fuel additives can cause them to "sink" I put injector cleaner in my carburated 85 Cherokee many years ago (young and stupid) and it took me 3 new floats before all that stuff had cleared the tank and they quit sinking. Never again. That's also why I liked seeing the copper ones in this carb.
I'm on the trail of a decent used MC 2100 right now.. That's sounding like my best bet.

 

OK! You're not gonna believe this one.
On a hunch, I went out to the garage to see if I still had the 2bbl carb from my 67 Galaxie 390 from when I swapped it out for a 4bbl back when I still had the car over 10 years ago.
I did! and I found it pretty quickly! AND it's an Autolite 1200!!!!!!
I know that car ran like a dream on that carb, so a rebuild kit should make it like new. Now the question is Jetting and such. the stamp on the side says "123". and it will be the bigger venturies for the 390. So I gotta figure out what I need to do to rejet it to work on the 258. Mebbe its ok the way it is??? I dunno.
I'm gonna order the adapter and a rebuild kit tomorrow. It even still has the Ford tag on it with the part number "C7AP BR" with "A 7AB" below it.
It does have a big "12" cast into the bottom, and "9Z B" in the flange on the base.
It's a good start!!!

 

We swapped on a holley 2bbl off of a dodge onto dad's 7 that had the bbd blues. Adjusted the idle and it runs beter than ever. The holley looks almost identical to the bbd, but has none of the problems. It does take some work to hook up the linkage. Starts right up in 10* weather.

 

That 2100 will be fine. Look at the driver's side of the bowl - the venturi size is cast in faint letters; the 1.08 is optimal but the 1.21 will be ok. The guy on eBay sells the 1.21 as his 'high-flow' version, and suggests an HEI upgrade to go with it. I'd clean it up and use it as-is. Get it running then tweek it.

 

And hang on to that tag! All I know is that C7 means '67 - the rest of the number likely just describes the application.

 

Motorcraft 2100. Had mine reuilt and the jeeps never ran better. With that said I have a webber on my nissan and I love it too. I never thought an ol nissan 4x4 could move so well. It is very simple and easy to work on but the price of it and parts can be really steep.

 

Yes. This is the original carb off of my 67 Galaxie 500 with a 390. "C" indicates 60s as the decade, "7" is the year thus "67" and the "AF" would indicate the make and model (if I remember right, A indicates full size sedan and in 67 that was the galaxie/ LTD, and the F meant it was the Ford devision). the "AB" on the end is just the variation in the run... I was a Ford dealer parts man for 2 years. hehehehehe.
I always liked how Ford did that with thier part numbers.
I guess I'll run witht it. Worst thing would be that it needs smaller jets later on.
Like I said the marking on the side of this one is 123. not 108 or 120. It's an older one, so I'm not sure what that indicates. But I've also found out that this is the larger venturied carb only found on the really big engines, so It may balance out the jets being bigger.

 

I love my 2100. It took about 40 minutes to tear down and rebuild (And that was taking mt sweet @$$ time.) VERY REWARDING. The Jeep never ran better.

 

Hmmm. A bit more searching has shown that I really want to look for a 1.08. I think I'll do a u-pull-it run and make a check before I go ahead with installing this one.
It seems that the optimal setup is a 1.08 carb, with #45 jets, the float spring, and the fuel bowl filler for optimal off-road utility. Sounds like a plan! best part is a little searching and all the guess work has been done.
Thanks so much for all of you guyses input. I'll keep ya updated on how the swap goes.
My CJ is parked till I get this straightened out. I don't wanna buy a new motor too.

 

Well, Well, Well! It seems that the MC1200 supply is in demand in this area as well. My u-pull-it run turned up about 8 potential vehicles, all with the carbs removed. fffrrrgghhrrfrrggrr...
Then I move on to calling parts houses... that was bad. nothing readily available, and no gurentee it would be correct. also average price was at $150. that's a fair piece more than I wanted to pay.
So a final call to another salvage yard turned up a 1.08 carb for $50. I'm going down tomorrow on lunch to get it.
Here's hoping!

 

I just bought a carb of this guy. Bolted it on and it ran perfect! (well almost, I have a slight issue with a sticky choke. I'm waiting for his response).

 

I am new to the site so just wanted to ask some questions. I have a 1980 cj5 ex military 63,000 original miles 258 6 cyl with the carter bbd. I was wondering how the holly off the dodge worked out as far as fitting. I have one and am researching putting it on mine instead of the autolite 2100 or high price Weber !! any suggestions. I was wondering if the two vacum hoses would hook up were the brake booster suppose to go on the holly. I have read several threads that say that when u use the autolite u have to eliminate the two lines for the canister vacum.