Can I run 35's with my Dana 27 & 44

I need to know if I can run 35's on my CJ5. I have the 225 V-6, T-18, Dana 27 in front and Dana 44 in rear. I plan to put 4.88 or 5.32 gears with lockers in it also and a 4" lift. Am I barking up the wrong tree or am I going to have to put a different differential in the front?

 

I dont see why not i have a dana 30 front and a dana 44 rear with 3.73s and I didnt have a problem. I have to stick with 33s though because of my side pipes but I plan on going back to 35s when I have the cash to change my pipes. just be carefull, if its going to be a big off road rig then I would chenge your gearing to atleast 4.11 and maybe see about stronger axles, but for a daily driver 35s should be fine you might have some steering issues like i have, she likes to take up both lanes and play chicken with mailboxes i'll be getting that issue fixed soon.

good luck

josh

 

I am putting power steering on now so maybe that will help and the new skackles and lift might also

 

Measure the diameter of the rear wheel opening. I think 33 is about the largest you can go without cutting. Alternately, if you lift enough, the tire will never enter the wheelwell, but that seems a little pointless.

Lots of posts about lockers in the archives, and about shackles too.

 

Seriously? Come awn guys. There's NO freakin' way that front axle will hold up to 35's and a locker if you take it off-road.

 

Actually I have seen it with an F-head. The guy ran lockrights front and rear and had only broken one rear axleshaft. It is not like he didn't drive hard either, he ran all the trails that the buggies ran and normally made them look bad. He used his head and knew when to use the stupid peddle and when not to.

 

Throttle to brain ratio.
You can bust Dana 60’s with 35’s, if you get stupid with your rig.

 

yea its the right foot to brain connection that will make the diffrence, its not the strongest axle in the world but for light duty trail it should be fine if you take an easy

 

I ran a 44/25 combo out of a station wagon in my Jeep for 2 years of almost weekly wheeling. welded front and rear, with 35's ATs and a 225/420/18 combo. Never broke an axle (front or rear), but I also drive conservatively, still got where I wanted though.
Of course you can also see that I went to Waggy 44s when a deal came along too.

 

I ran 36" Super Swamper TSL's on the stock dana 27 front and 2 piece dana 44 rear -with the F-head. The front is welded solid, the rear was open carrier (I welded the front after blowing up the spiders when I was being stupid running 31's).
5.38 gears and no horsepower = long axle life!

BUT
I also carry a complete inner and outer front axle shaft for both sides, along with a spare set of warn hubs!

 

I'm just going to carry a spare jeep with me where ever I go :AMC:

 

I ran 36 swampers for years on a 27 and 2piece 44 225v6 never had a problem.

 

I have had 35's on my rig for a year now with the stock 25/44 combo... no problems yet, but i'll be swapping them out when they do break.

 

I tried to run 35's on a Dana 27.....blew the spiders twice within ten minutes. The 44 held up. I just swapped in a custom Dana 60 in the rear and am narrowing a 60 front....

Extreem

 

My brother, who is deathly afraid of wheelspin, broke a welded 25 and a welded 27 in the space of 3 trips with a 3b and a stock F head. 32" TSL's. The first one broke backing up onto the trailer to go home. He put in a hand-me-down D30 and hasn't had any problems since. You can get a used D30 for $0-200 with either 11" or disk brakes and your turning radius will decrease by about 10 feet. It bolts right in. With a little head scratchin you can even make the solid tie rod work, which makes the steering settle down a lot. Cheap, easy, dramatic upgrade.

 

I run 33" tires with Dana 27's and Dana 44's in the rear. The new 350 had a field day with the drive shaft. It is true, the right foot took over the gray matter and the result was inevitable. Kaaboom!!
http://d3nme.spaces.live.com
Dana

 

Go for it. I only have 33's, but have never had any issue's. As for upgrading the axle, just run the 27, and THEN if you have trouble swap it out.

Everybody has different driving habits, so until you try it you won't know if you need to upgrade or not.

 

I run Q bias buckshots with a 225 t-14, D20, 3.73 gears with a trac lok in the front( it don't work that good) and a heavy right foot, all I have ever broken is front drive shafts.

HTML:

http://s91.photobucket.com/albums/k298/wiley69cj5/

run them till they break. fix then repeat!

 

Well, I would agree with you guys on driving it till it breaks except for one thing. If he has no way to tow a broken vehicle home he shouldn't. I don't have a tow vehicle. If my CJ breaks I've either have to fix it where it lies or pay to tow it somewhere. I'd rather upgrade if there's a good chance I'd break it rather then break it and have to either do a hack job or pay somebody an arm and a leg to get it done.