ford t18 behind v6

I am in the process of putting a ford t18 into my 66 cj5 and I have a few questions 1. Does anyone have a part# for the ford clutch disk that I need for this swap? 2. Does the cross member need modification? 3. I have a new clutch kit for the v6 and, the tranny and transfer are getting the go-through is there anything else I should be doing at this time? 4. Anyone know where I can get a blockoff plate for the pto port on my transfer? Thanks in advance

 

1) PartsMikeParts: Clutch Disc, 10 spline x 1-1/16" hub x 10.5" diameter, #J5354689 ($47)

2) Cross member does not need modifcation, just slid back.

3) You are going to either need to turn down the retainer or enlarge the hole on the bell housing. You will need a special pilot bushing, PartsMikeParts #GM670 ($15), or you will need to turn down the end of the Ford input shaft to match the GM bushing. Get a new throw-out bearing while it's all apart. Not sure if you need a special one to match the GM retainer. Novak sells custom retainers for cheap that'll match whatever you want to use.

4) Check PartsMikeParts for the block off. Worst case scenario you could machine your own; it's just a flat piece of heavy sheet, maybe 16ga or so, with some RTV between it and the case.

 

You can check here for pics of how I had my bell modified. I used an FSJ trans, but many of the principles should be the same; I had the light areas of the bell welded up as Mazidell mentioned.

http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37804&page=3&highlight=4spd+ramblings

 

thanks a lot guys, I guess I should have told you that I have already mated the tranny to the bell, had the retainer turned down (around the bolt holes and the shaft, and it was shortened too) also the bell was drilled and tapped with a bunch of material added to the area of the threads. Just wanted to know what I was going to run into on the install. Thanks for the part #'s. Isn't the bearing retainer going to be the same as the one I have now?

 

I think he was asking if his turned-down retainer is going to be the same as what he could order from Novak. The answer is: If what you've got fits the throwout bearing, run it.

 

From their web page:

http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/ford_to_gm.htm

$23 + shipping, IIRC, but you have to call and give them your application.

 

One thing I'd like to add is you don't have to turn down the Ford input at the pilot. Use a GM pilot bushing turned out to fit the Ford Pilot. That way you aren't machining away the heat treating on the input shaft. The pilot bushing is available from many sources if you can't do it yourself. Novak, R&P, Partsmike, Advance Adapters, Summit, Jeg's, etc. Nickmil

 

Thank everyone you have helped tremendously. And my front bearing retainer fits the GM throughout bearing (I din't know you could just buy one from novak, would have been cheaper). Danstew, how did you do your hydro clutch setup? As for the clearance/crossmember/tranny tunnel issues go I think I will just have to see what happens when I mount the tranny up(keeping in mind what you guys have done with yours).

 

I'm preparing to do this same conversion to my ECJ5. I noticed that the Ford T18 input shaft is about .25" shorter than the Jeep T14 input shaft. Novak doesn't say anything about this at their site. Is this length difference a non-issue? Does the special pilot bushing extend farther out to help support this shorter shaft?

 

Lynn mentioned something about this a while back. Do a search for his post and you'll probably find it. IIRC, he ran his with the 2wd shaft and turned the end down to fit the stock GM bushing, runs no problem.

 

Check with Eric at Novak's. He told me that they have a Hyd clutch bracket that is ready to go into production. It would be the package like what they have for the Chevy bellhousing. Anyone interested, please give Eric a call to show that your interested.

 

I just reworked my stock torque tube configuration buy bending new lic. rods it works great and cheap.

 

I don't have my trans in yet, so I hope I'm not talking out my arse here, but the way I mocked it up it appears to me that the stock crossmember can be used unaltered: I am planning on sliding it back one bolt hole as you mentioned, but instead of cutting into the crossmember, I want to shim it down about 1/2" or 3/4" to clearance the body. By my measurements and survey of the area involved, I don't see why it won't work in stock form. I've also got the tub about to come off, and the new body mounts are 1" thick instead of the old "tire sidewall" looking mounts, so in the end I'm thinking I may need to do nothing at all except slide it back a hole.

 

So what about stock body height, though? It just seems to me like it would be easier to shim the crossmember than to modify it. Any reason why this wouldn't work?