Disk Brake Conversion?

Has anybody done a disk brake conversion for a 72-75? I have a 72 and I was wondering if you had any suggestions for parts/brands and approximate cost, or if it is even worth it...
Thanks alot

Oh yeah,
I am also looking for the linkage that connects the 4wd shifter to the transfer case. Somehow, mine is missing (previous owner) and I can't put the Jeep into 4wd, kinda pointless huh?

Still learnin the ropes of the jeep mechanic...
HELP ME!!!

 

Are the shifter parts you are looking for is to a DANA 20 transfer case? and do you need the shifter and linkages? I am in the middle of getting what I need to do a front disc conversion to my 75. I took the parts off a 79 Dana 30 front axle. I even took the shafts cause I beleive I'm going to have to replace my outer shaft due to they are for a drum setup. I do not have the porportional valve or new resiovor yet or the new brake lines. And I'm thinking I'll need the brake line attachment clips for the frame as well. I do not intend on installing power barkes.

 

Re the shift linkage, there's somebody online that has a blowup of the shifter and sells the individual parts. However, The shifter uses those ball-and-socket joints on the shift linkage, similar to the clutch linkage (73-on, the '72 had a cable, which is often replaced with the 73-on bellcrank). The better solution for the clutch parts (rather than the ball joints) is to fit Heim joints; I presume you could do the same for the shifter.

 

I am looking for the parts for a DANA 20. I have the shifter, I just need the linkage. Thanks for the input on the brakes.

 

For my disc brakes i just used 82 parts from the knuckes out. I'm using a 82 mc with the origonal 73 pushrod and an ajustable porp valve.

 

I just took the linkage off my 72. I am almost done installing my twin stick. I had to cut the crank pivot bolt though. If yours is in tact I am willing to send you the linkage I have. Let me know.

 

What you need to do your disc brake swap is caliper brackets and calipers from a 87 and older chevy 4x4 truck 1/2 ton.and fotors from a 77-78 jeep cj or ford F150. CJ rotors mount on the back side of the hub, and ford rotors mount on the frount side.Ford rotors will need to be machined to fit hub.

 

I tried it with all CJ parts, Basically putting together the applicable parts from a mid 80's CJ. I got everything I could think of from the entire wide track axle (stopped the tires from rubbing.) to the master cylinder, proportioning valve, etc... I ran the new hard lines myself.

I was very disapointed with the performance. I don't know what I did wrong. It should have worked out great. The Jeep stops OK, but not as well as it did with 11" drums all around. THe only time it really helps is after a creek crossing. It stops better than wet drums, but not as well as dry ones.

 

If you used semi-metallic pads you might try organics. Semi-metallic's are designed to be used with a power booster and are very hard. Organic's are much softer plus have the added bonus of not tearing up the rotors. I've run into this before and was able to solve it on a couple of vehicles simply by switching pads. That's assuming everything else is working correctly which it sounds like it is. Nickmil

 

i've never used anything accept the stock brake drums etc.
and have found that if one maintains them properly
that they are more than adequate for a light little CJ5.
anyone have other thots about this?
iowa

 

11" brakes work great on a CJ. Until they get wet and muddy. The nature of disc brakes make them throw water and mud away from the brakes rather than trap water in them. I went from 9" brakes to 11" brakes and it was a great upgrade. I then went to 4 wheel disc and it was even better. I'll never go back to drums. I know Lynn and some others have drilled their drums to allow water and mud to escape with good success and that may be a way to go for some. For myself, I like the ease of servicibility and parts availability of discs. Nickmil

 

Others of us have found that brake drums packed with slick mud and a steep down hill causes problems...

I used everything off a 77 CJ. I reused my locking hubs, but I had to use the wheel hubs off the 77 because the hubs on my 74 were not machined on the backsides for the rotors. You can use your knuckles with the 6 bolt caliper plates, but you will have grind a little for the calipers to clear. If you don't want to grind your knuckles, I have a set of 77 knuckles.

 

i swapped knuckles from an 83 cj into my 75. i kept my premium locking hub assembly, as the donor also had a six-bolt hub. you don't have to swap out the stub axles, they are the same, although the seals are a little different - just use the seals that go with whatever stub axle you use.

a couple of thoughts on the differences between all drums vs. discs up front. when dry and not used for extended periods, such as very long downhills, drum brakes provide better stopping power than discs. however, once wet, hot or muddy, the disc brakes will provide superior stopping power - sometimes the drums do nothing when soaked or muddy. also, for static holding power, the drums are superior. there's more than one reason why my subaru uses a tiny drum brake setup inside the rear disc/rotor hub assembly for a parking brake.

also, if i were to do it again, i'd contemplate going the chevy route, using the plate/bracket from the chevy with jeep calipers. seems easier than swapping out the knuckles and hubs.

oh, and i didn't change my master cylinder, and i'm using the original proportioning valve for the '75. the only change i made to the master was to remove the small rubber flapper valve from inside the outlet leading to the front brakes, which is the outlet closest to the firewall. the drum brakes need this small valve to maintain a slight residual pressure in the line, but the disc brakes don't, and they won't release very well if the valve is retained.

the braking is adequate, and doesn't change with conditions, unlike my drum brakes. sure, right after i serviced the drums, they would put me through the windshield, until i drove through any water or mud, then they'd pull hard to one side or not stop at all.