Twin stick install

Hey guys,

I just finished up my twin stick install today. I thought I could not get 2wd low without removing "detent pills". I do have it. Anyway, everything else checks out except for the fact that when I got home after my shake down run one of the shift rod covers fell out and was laying on the driveway. I stuck back in and tapped on it with a hammer. Do I get to be concerned about that, or now that I tapped it back in it should stay in place???? I lost a little gear oil out that spot.

All I know is that it is so nice to know if I am in four wheel drive or not. My old linkage was so loose I could never tell until the rear end would try and be the front endR) R)

Thanks,

High5

 

pictures? what did you use for twin sticks? I have a factory dana 20 twin stick set-up for one of my jeeps, not sure what I want to do with the other.

The cover is just a little plastic cap isn't it? Little curious that it fell out.

 

No it's a metal cover. This is off a 75 Dana 20. I don't think there is any plastic on my jeep except for the flares.

I bought the kit off Ebay. It is really good quality stuff with heim joints as the linkage. I spent yesterday and today knawing off the old linkage. I know you are supposed to take the t case out, but I didn't want to deal with that mess. I used a die grinder and air chisel and just worked it out, and a BFH. Took forever, but the pay off is great. I ordered my shift boot from 4wd.com. It's one that Don, of Don's twin stick advises. I didn't buy his kit, but I'm sure this boot will work. Just have to wait for it to come in.

I'm not sure what to think about the cap dealie coming out. Every shift feels tight and like it should. I wonder if it just worked it's way out with all the pounding grinding and chiseling I was doing. I just tapped it back in and it felt tight. I'm hoping that will do it.

High5

I can take some pics, but not tonight

 

I used to be able to move my shift lever through most of it's ROM without shifting into another gear. It was that loose and I had tightened everything up as much as possible. Now, it's great to know when you are in gear and not. Now I just have to memorize the pattern. This probably sounds crazy, but it drives better now too. I think there was somehow some rolling resistence in there due to not being all the way in gear or something. Because that is the only thing I did over the weekend and now it rolls much easier.

I don't have a shifter area cover like most. Mine is glass and we just cut a slot for the shifters. I had to open it up considerably to get the shifters in. Without cutting the old linkage off I could never have gotten it past the T18 adapter.

Anywho, no complaints yet. I'll check and see if that cover popped off after work.

High5

 

Here is a pic that shows the plastic caps I was speaking of... and my twin stick...

 

The plastic caps in the top pic are where the holes were machined for the detent spring and ball which are under the shift rails. If you remove the plug and look close you may find the holes threaded, most were. The second pic is of a model 20 from a '67-'69 Scout 800. They came stock with the twin stick. No other production 20 did. I use those all the time when building twin stick 20's. R&P supplies me the parts so if you want one give them a shout. They may have some they might be willing to part with. Nickmil

 

I'm talking about the covers in the top pic, on the back of the transfer case. It's not threaded or anything. I just popped it back in and tapped it with a hammer. I haven't checked to see if it's still there, I sure hope it is

High5

 

DOH! just re-read your first post. I like to take a little ultra black rtv or something similar and put some around the outside edge before I tap them in. It seals them up well and helps keep them from coming out. Nickmil

 

duh, now I know what covers your talking about, my bad...

yes, the twin stick 20 in the second pic was from a scout 800. I am going to put that in Green Jeep. For Black Jeep I think I will make my own setup. I got a handful of heim joints and some spare shifters laying around that I think I can make work. Would still like to see pics of your setup HIGH5.

 

The same one popped out again today while I was shifting in the driveway. I put some thread locker on it and tapped it back in. I thought that was what was suggested in the previous post, but I was wrong. Will that stuff keep it in???

More importantly, why is it coming out??? I'm curious if this is a bigger problem.

The last thing I need to do is find a new shift boot for the T18. They didn't have one in stock at O'Reilly's. Kinda surprised about that. I used some diamond plate as a cover to make the hole smaller for the transfer case. I had increased the width to get the shifters in, but it was too long. I shrunk it down considerably then followed the contours of the trans hump. I think it looks pretty darn good. I spent all damn afternoon cutting and grinding and measuring. Surprising how a little project can take so long.

Any advice on why the cap keeps popping would be greatly appreciated

High5

 

What caps are you speaking of Tumbleweed??? I'm talking about the shift rail cap on the back of the transfer case. Mine were not threaded at all. I cleaned it off, put some thread locker on it and tapped it back into place.

If you look back at the pic on the previous page I'm talking about the picture with the back of the case on the right. Those two little caps.

High5

 

So, someone tell me why that one on the passenger side keeps popping out????????????????

Thanks

High5

 

One of a couple of things is happening here. Oil could be working it's way into the cap and when shifted the shift rail hydraulically is forcing the the cap off. Normally there is a groove or flat machined in the end of the shift rail to keep pressure from building up. Another thing is the cap could be worn out, i.e. compressed where it fits into the bore so it's no longer tight (most likely). You should have to use a soft faced hammer and tap pretty hard to get them in. If not you can "distort" the end so it fits tight and use some RTV or sealant of some sort to keep it from leaking. The last and highly unlikely is the shift rail is incorrect and pushing the cap off. Again, highly unlikely. When you put the cap on make sure the bore is absolutely clean and so is the cap. Spray brake cleaner works great for flushing all the junk out. lightly coat the end of the cap where it goes into the transfer case with sealer, then tap it in and make sure it bottoms in the bore. Nickmil

 

That's what I did this time. I cleaned it thoroughly, put some locktite on it, and tapped it back in with a hammer. I hope this takes care of it even though I don't shift into 4 low very often.

Thanks,

High5

 

Just be warned that when in 4 lo the rear axle may have a tendency to jump out of gear at the worst time. The detent in the rail for the rear axle is sloped and not a perfect half circle - thus under some bind it slips out of gear. Happened to me quite a bit - also a few fellow Jeepster owners. Two ways to fix this:

1. Be cheap like me and make a small chain section and hook it to the firewall when in 4 lo.

2. Take the rail out(dissamble case) and fill weld the slope in and grind it flush. This is what my friend Tom did on his Jeepster. I can find and link the write up if you want.