52 M38a1 Motor Pool Resto

When we were building and installing boilers, we had alot of tubing to install for the pneumatic controls and chemical injection systems. It varied in size from 3/16" to 1/2" and was normally stainless steel. The way we straightened the tubing was to stretch it. We would unroll the coil (not uncoil it, didn't want a spring) in a straight line on the floor. We then secured one end firmly and at the other end, give it a quick hard pull. When I rebuilt my jeep, I purchased a 25 ft coil of 3/16" aluminized steel tubing, clamped one end in my vise, unrolled the coil, grasped the other end with a pair of vise grips and pulled by hand. The coil stretched maybe an 1/8" to 1/4" in length. The brake line was straight as an arrow. You might try it.

 

Pretty cool. Almost like it is taking a set in the molecular structure. I have unrolled miles of copper but never heard of that.
I wonder if it would work on copper. Not that I do that anymore. Just enjoy learning new things.

 

Why wouldn't it? With copper, I may not pull quite as hard because it is soft but, all you are trying to do is removing the set caused by rolling it into a coil.

 

Aligning the molecules I suppose...

 

Hey look, someone installed the valve springs upside down. The closer coils should always be up top. Regardless, I needed to pull the valve cover off to measure what size pilot I'll need for the valve seat cutter which I have to order.

 

Those springs look like beehive springs and the smaller end, more open end are always installed toward the the rocker. The reason being, there is less mass (ie. weight) for the valve train to move during operation.

 

These don't got no steenkin' rockers.

 

I know Pete. Would you feel better if I say, upper valve train?

 

OK boys, search on youtube; Willys Engine Rebuild Tip Of The Day, Valve Springs (it will not allow me to embed)

Your thought and suggestions are always valuable....

 

Another valuable video brought to you by metalshaper. Click Watch on YouTube or right click the Watch and open.

 

Well no... because as I understand the principle, the springs in the picture are supposed to have the open end towards the lower side.

 

Not beehives on the F-134. Just tighter wound on one end, and the tight end is supposed to be against the block as noted. From the manual:





Now why they wound one end tighter, I have no idea. The flathead 134s were the same way. It does make sense the tight wound end is against the block since it's heavier.

 

Thinking it may give better rebound from compression and/or absorb the heat before transfer to the coils.
Imagine what those engineers would be like in a modern world.

 

No argument from me. The original photo gave the appearance of beehive shaped valve springs. Probably the shadowing in the picture.

 

They do kind-of look that way. The real magic to their performance isn't just lighter weight components on the moving end, but also that the variable spring rate over the length of the spring greatly reduces resonance and as a result has much better control on the valves at high rpm.

 

To disrupt/eliminate harmonic cycles, or 'bounce.' Same for double telescoped springs, IIRC.

 

OK, I've borrowed a dial caliper from Vietnam vet neighbor and have what I need to further assess this valve project. I'm so frustrated by the quality of calipers available locally. What is this world coming to. Nice old school tool. Thanks Tommy....

Before cleaning off the cosmoline, it says 0.071" and I imagine that after a nice bath it will be spot on 0.070. I need to measure the exhaust valves coming out of the block to make sure my NOS valves will work, but also to confirm which cutter pilot I need to order.

Suffice to say it needs to be right the first time around! I also think I should replace the head bolts. Most are pitted and snapping one would be a big deal. I haven't placed my DeBella order yet. This part of the project is taking longer than anticipated.

These head bolts are pitted and I frankly don't trust them. I'm going to replace....

 

OK, exhaust valves are out.

The spring compressor I have sucks so I used a pickle fork and a narrow block of wood for leverage. Pry up the spring and give the valve a whack from above with a rubber mallet. This releases the keepers. The three wads of paper towels prevent the keepers from falling down into into the block. I still have all 8 keepers so it was a success.

Quite a lot of carbon buildup to deal with. There's no doubt in my mind that the valve seats were the issue. The compression was very low on 1,2 and 4. Number 3 was only 75 pounds.

Not the best pic, but the valves I took out were pitted. I'll be using the NOS ones on the shelf (foreground, in cosmoline of course). Those new valves came in a mystery box of old parts I bought a few yeast ago!

Happy that the stem diameters are right in line. The used valve below;

And the NOS valve...right on the money. The valve guides are nice and snug, so another thing I don't have to deal with.

Just some eye candy

I still haven't polished the deck, but it appears to be flat from some crude measurements. I still haven't really looked at the head as of yet.

 

Kind of at a bit of a standstill with the engine so I felt like replacing the sector shaft bushings on the Ross.

Took some time to drive the bushings out. I used a 3/8" driver and a little heat.

These bushings are badly worn. Out with the old....

In with the new....I was fortunate to have NOS bushings and seal.

I used a plastic mallet as not to damage the new bushings.

New seal...

Inboard side...

And done. Nice and shiny bronze.

NOS sector shaft.

Which will not fit until I ream. I do not have this reamer (or any for that matter) so another project is tabled, waiting for tools.

 

I have parts and tools coming this week in order to keep the push going. Today, received an awesome old school valve spring compressor;

I really avoid buying new tools in general, but I do on occasion if I must. This is the kind of thing I'd use every 5 years in reality but it's worth it.

We'll see what shows up later this week. I'm anxious to get the 15/16th" reamer in order to complete the steering box. Also, Neway valve seat cutters and pilots should be here Friday.