8274 Freshen-up

Not a good wiring diagram, but it seems like motor should go on 4&5, high current power and GND on 6&7, control GND on 2, and in/out on 1&3.

Have you taken a meter and found which contacts are normally closed?

Nice looking winch!

 

Warn used four relays for your winch originally. If the contacts welded on one relay the winch would still turn off. This could be called a safety
feature whether it was designed that way or not. The single replacement relay from Warn contains three coils and will also turn the winch off if
one contact were to weld. Using the contactor shown, though cheaper, provides no inherent safety. If using this, a quick means of disconnect should
be added. Either a heavy duty switch that you can quickly access or a large isolation relay with a switch. I personally have not seen a decent
insulated high amperage switch I would use for a winch. Some of the small ones that go to the battery are fine for light loads. In any case of using
a winch a means of disconnecting would be recommended. Below are two videos of wiring this relay. The first one is really good and the second one
shows a good relay for isolating the hot wire to the winch. Keep in mind, there may need to be some re-wiring of the handheld control to make this work.
An ohm meter or battery powered test light would be good for reading the continuity of the remote to interface with the new configuration.
Relay https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SGP3...mzn1.fos.304cacc1-b508-45fb-a37f-a2c47c48c32f

 

A better picture of the internals and wiring connections.
https://www.bandcwinches.com.au/persistent/catalogue_files/products/14452solenoid..pdf

 

Yeah Superwinch doesn't sell that part number anymore. I went with the universal contactor that is for their 9500 and 11500# winches. this contactor matches the contactor in the second video you posted which is very helpful. I found the first video and it was a bit to vague for me. I am not an electrical expert by any means. My experience with contactors is for lighting controls, AC units and furnaces. These typically are nicely labeled with NO, NC or nice little graphics that show an open or closed contact. Ill bust out the multimeter and check the leads just to make sure.
Thanks for all the help vtxstasy!

 

I also did a/c, controls, electrical, etc, for almost 40 years. Trained on helos and worked on the electrical systems and controls. If you need anything, let me know.

 

Thanks again. Do you happen to know what the warn part number is? I like the simplicity of that solution in lieu of added components.
Todd

 

The Warn relay is supposed to be hermetically sealed but I have heard of them getting water inside. If it is the Warn relay you are looking for this is the one.
https://www.amazon.com/WARN-34971-Contractor-Factor-Bracket/dp/B000OV6JKA
It has one extra coil inside and contacts. The wiring is the same or very similar to the one you have. Kind of expensive. For that price you could easily add the
isolation relay and have a safe method of circuit interruption.
Another relay diagram.
https://www.bandcwinches.com.au/persistent/catalogue_files/products/14452solenoid..pdf

 

I keep looking for an old one that needs rebuilding, but, I don't want to drive 8-10 hours to get it.

 

So I finally finished the contactor upgrade wiring install. The contactor is from Superwinch and is really just like the other cheapies on Amazon. They all look almost identical but I'm not 100% sure. Other folks on the youtubes have used the cheapies and seem to have good luck with them. Anyway, all solenoids removed and contactor installed with two self tappers with stainless nuts behind it to space off of the plate

This is the initial test fit using the existing wires that surprisingly I was able to make fit after bending the lugs in a 90 on one end.

This is the wiring diagram I used and it is correct for this contactor.

Wiring complete with heat shrink tube on lugs and a boot on the hot(behind in the middle). White wire is also connected to the hot and runs to the plug.

Got it all together and hooked to a battery and it wouldn't shut off so I had to check everything. I first verified that all was wired right by jumping power to the black and green control spades and that proved I had it wired correctly. On to the plug which was also wired correctly. Ah yes the plug end on the control wire was in bad shape! Pulled it apart and cut things back 1/2" and rewired with good wire. Got it all back together and success!

Bought a 3/8" x 85' harbor freight rope and removed the loop at the drum end and ran into the hole and tied a couple knots in to retain. I did not take any pictures of that and should have. This rope has red heat guard sleave for I am assuming a drum mounted motor style winch that the drums do get hot and can damage the rope.

Once it mounted on the Jeep I'll unspool and stretch and re-spool to get it good and tight on the drum.

 

Oops! forgot to mention with the contactor in place the plug will not work in front so I drilled three new holes on the side and reinstalled it. I will make a sticker for the front to cover up the existing hole. My cover is cracked pretty bad on the right side but I can't see ponying up $46 for a ne plastic cover from Warn. I may make something at some point.

 

Or just completely remove that from the winch and mount the contactor behind the grill. I used an Amphenol 4 pin waterproof connector for the remote. That resulted in a decently clean looking installation with everything but the high amp cables out of the weather.

 

A real world follow up for the importance of using the correct relay/relays for your winch. Warn and maybe Superwinch
have redundant contacts to prevent a runaway condition. It is probably a good idea to check the contacts for failure
such as welding or corrosion in any winch that has seen hard use, age or weathering. Warn uses a design to prevent
a runaway condition. The problem starts at at 11:00 mins. in but the Sami itself is well built and worth the look.

 

Thanks for posting this. I plan on running that relay you posted a link to hopefully handle a situation like this.

 

This was designed and built by Max Gremillion, son of Pat Gremillion of Pull Pal and Premier Power Welder Fame. Pricey, yes. Also genius.