T14 Transmission Question

So I am in the middle of a T14 rebuild and I have the big pieces apart. I'm staring at the 1-1/4 nut that holds on the transfer case drive gear (ref. 1973 TSM 6-2) and I'm wondering if anyone is willing to share thier wisdom on how to get that off. If I use an impact it will probably get destroyed (has happened on other transmissions on input/output shafts but wasn't a Jeep) or definitely damaged. Is there some creative way to hold the assembly from rotating?

To answer the question of was it necessary, it is. Sometimes drops into 1st and has a grind between 2nd and 3rd when heated up, so probably syncros. This is my first T14, or Jeep, transmission rebuild. I appreciate the help.

 

Slide your syncros by hand so your in 1st and 3rd at the same time, then you can use a breaker bar.

ETA, sorry, meant reverse and 3rd!

 

This. Any two gears will work though as it binds the output shaft so it cannot rotate. Then use an impact to remove the nut. If that destroys the nut or shaft they had problems before removal. If it is a nylon locking nut it should be replaced in any case.
I think you (original poster) probably mean the blocking or synchronizer rings are worn. The synchronizer assembly is the hub, sleeve, blocking ring, inserts, and springs. Saying a synchro could be any one or all of these parts.
Not sure what you mean by “drops into first” but if you mean it shifts into first on its own I’d be looking at the detent balls, springs, and shift rails in the shifter top very carefully.

 

Okay, that is exactly what I needed. Thank you Andrew

I guess I should clarify, though you may be correct nonetheless. Sometimes, not always, when the transmission is heated up and been run for a bit, when I shift it into first, say waiting for a green light, it just seems to "clunk" into first gear. Normally there is resistance and it goes into first with no issue, but occasionally it feels like it is just dropping into gear vs being pulled into gear. Hopefully that explains it. Yes, that is what I meant by the syncros being worn. That was too general of a description, it could be the any one of those parts. I am also replacing the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, adjustment rod, springs and new seals and bushings on the external clutch parts as well.

The main shaft nut is nylon unfortunately so I will have to order one and wait till it arrives. I'm not sure my local Ace Hardware will have something like that.

 

Is it recommended to use transmission assembly lube/grease for assembly or would the GL4 gear oil work as well? I plan on the refridgerated vaseline for the roller bearings as mentioned in these forums.

 

I would just spend the $10 on a small bucket of “Assemblee Goo” (found it at Napa) it’s a 16 oz tub and it works for anything you need to stick together.

Aside from my T14, I used it to “glue” my oil pump gears in place.

Good stuff

 

This x10. Do not ever use grease of any type to assemble gearboxes. Petroleum jelly works ok but hard to keep it from melting in your fingers or on a warm day.

 

Thanks guys, I did just that and went and got a bucket of Assemblee Goo.

I'm sure there will be more questions to come along the way of this rebuild.

 

Does the slinger washer (ring) supposed to held in place with the bearing pressed in or does it rotate free?

 

Should be held tight by the bearing.

 

Thanks Nick

 

Just an update to close a thread. That was my first attempt at a transmission rebuild. It went well and is back in working well. Thank you for the help and advice, I appreciate you guys passing on your knowledge and experience.

Front lockers, rear tire holder and possible steering box referb to go.