clutch adjustment

I think mine ran about the same for the all-thread clevises and clevis pins.

 

It seems the rod you fabricated replaced the brake rod. Does that being tighter effect the loose clutch pedal? I have the same loose clutch pedal for months now. I have been following this thread and trying figure out what the solution is for my clutch. I discovered yesterday that I initially installed the clutch fork incorrectly. It was seated in front of the bearing that pushes on the clutch plate instead of behind like the service manual photo shows. Once I fixed that everything seemed to be much tighter in the cloth cable, but the fork was still loose. It seems there is a small spring that is suppose to be attached on the opposite side of the fork. However, I can't see where this little spring attaches too. It's driving me nuts. When I depress the clutch pedal there is slight movement but nowhere near enough to push the clutch plate. The jeep is freshly restored, 100% and this clutch problem is the only thing keeping it off the road. I have some photos but can't figure out how to post them without first posting them on a website

Ian

 

Ian, to post pics you need to host them on a site like Flickr, Photobucket, etc then link them here. Attachments are disabled.


Sent from my iPhone

 

The clutch tube runs through the tube for the brake. So the clutch pedal arm is on the out side, and the tab the rod goes to is on the inside toward the engine. The clutch tube acts as the pivot for the brake arm and tab that pushes the brake rod forward into the master-cylinder. But I will tell you that when laying on your back in the deepest mud-puddle around during a pouring rain or snow storm miles from anything, it sure doesn't seem that simple.

 

So this weekend I built the exact same setup as discussed in this thread to try and fix my loose clutch. I tried many different routes: tried two different length clutch cables and different clutch forks. Finally I made the brake tube with threaded ends and a Clovis on each end like described here. Photos attached. When I depress the clutch I can see the bearing moving in slightly and I hear a scraping sound as it hits the clutch disc. Unfortunately it is not moving far enough to allow me to move the stick without grinding. I adjusted the new brake rod in and out with no change. What else can I do? My clutch setup is identical to the repair manual except for the new clutch tube. The poor jeep has been stuck in the garage for 6 months now due to this clutch problem. Otherwise it runs perfectly. Very distressed....

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/91922317@N05/8354892449/
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/91922317@N05/8355945932/

Still trying to figure out how to show pictures here. Maybe this will work.

 

Travel is all about the proper ratio at the clutch pedal and the cross shaft........so looking at the pictures it looks like you have given up on the cable? and are back to the rods and cross shaft. Think of whatever your attachment point is on the clutch pedal or cross shaft from the center of that point to where the shaft or pedal pivots at that point will determine the ratio.........if your not getting enough travel you need to add distance to one of those points whereby the clutch pedal is traveling the same distance, but the arm attached to it is now longer and therefore doing more work or travel. Not talking about the threaded shaft with the clevis.........that's the dumb end of the equation! Were talking about the pickup points. It's really not hard once you take a different look at the linkage.
Now we are also assuming that there is no restriction inside the clutch can that would restrict forward movement of the throw out bearing against the pressure plate fingers.

 

Aside from the linkage issues, you also need to consider the fork and pivot ball plus the dim's of the throughout bearing. Take a look at the clutch info on the novak web site.

 

Is the throwout bearing seized? does it rotate easy? how much pedal free travel do you currently have? is your spring still in place on the throwout bearing carrier?

 

The throwout bearing moves and rotates freely. I have about 1 inches of pedal travel like the manual calls for. I installed the clutch with all new parts about 6 months ago when I had the body off for a full restoration. With the bell housing off and on, I have never been able to find where the spring connects to the throwout bearing. It is way to small to stretch that much and there is nowhere to connect it to. I drove it for about 30 miles after the restoration and the clutch worked great. It then became very loose very quickly until it was totally unsusable.

 

I think you now have too much freeplay............I would lenthen your adjustable rod until you have half of that and give it a try.........The spring goes on the outside of the bell housing on the Clutch fork...........attache where you can so that it pulls the bearing away from the pressure plate. If this looks like your going in the right direction take it for a ride and when in High gear lightly feel the pedal and see how much running clearance is left. 1" is nice but all you need is 1/2 that much.

 

are you sure about him needing half that much? Mine is set to 1" in my t90 and it works great. My owners manual says its supposed to be 1" free travel in the pedal and My 1960 motor manual says 1 1/2" of travel. and my copyright 1959 factory willys service manual says 1 1/2 inch travel. Whereas my 54-63 chiltons says 3/4" to 1" but it doesn't say if its for universals wagons or trucks.

 

A Clutch is a Clutch is a Clutch.............all a clutch really needs is some free play while your running down the road at a normal driving speed. How much is some? A 1/4" to a 1/2" while in high gear is fine!....Meaning that you need some running clearance between the clutch fingers on the pressure plate and the throw out bearing as your operating the vehicle at RPM. If there was no clearance the throw out bearing would be running all the time and wear out.........but also since all clutches have centrifugal weights on the pressure plate fingers which at RPM causes the fingers to swing out in arch away from the pressure plate which then applies force to the pressure plate and locks the clutch up. If there is no clearance at RPM then the clutch will slip. Same principle on a diaphragm type clutch. The reason manufactures give you such a broad range is so that people don't screw up the clutch. As I mentioned above the best way I have found after the initial static driveway check is as your driving down the road , apply some light pressure to the clutch pedal and you will get a first hand measurement of how much free play you really have. Then make your final adjustment.

The gentleman above seems to be having some travel issues whereby he does not have enough travel in the system to get the clutch to completely release when he shifts or is at a Stop.I suggested that he increase's the linkage length which will increase the travel.......More clearance is fine but keep in mind there is a mechanical length that you need for your total clutch linkage to work properly........if you have too much clearance at the pedal that takes away from the ability to push the linkage far enough to release the clutch and the reverse is also true.

 

While I agree with tarry, I can't help but think that the op understands how to adjust the linkage and that still isn't solving the problem. As I mentioned earlier, I think this goes back to the fork, pivot ball, TO bearing assembly. I guess the most likely item would be wrong TO bearing. The info on the novak web site is very helpful and explains it way better than I can.

 

AKCJ,

Correct, I understand how to adjust the linkage and have done all variations of it I can think of. All the parts seem to be correct and the whole set up worked not to long ago. When I depress the clutch pedal, the fork is not pushing the throwout bearing enough to shift. The only part not in play is the spring attached to the throwout bearing which I have never had before and it wokred fine. Could that little spring really be what is the problem?

 

littl

The spring as I mentioned before is normally just a helper return spring & in some cases is not even needed..................
Also In some case's the throughout bearing and it's related collar are not the right length......I would ask when you took it apart did you change the bearing and if so did you verify that the old versus the new were both the same length and bearing OD were both the same?
I would also go back to #10 post and review the proper clocking of the cross shaft and see if your missing something there.
I also looked at your pictures are any of those long bolts or pins coming in contact with anything that would limit travel?
Simply if your not getting enough travel to the throughout bearing and nothing is limiting that travel then somewhere along the path there is not enough length in your linkage.

 

I wouldn't think the helper spring would make much difference. It sounds like the clutch fork is bent or the TO bearing is wrong. Or the fingers on the pressure plate somehow aren't correct. Or the disk is backwards or coming apart. Or the pilot bearing is tight. I'm grasping here. I should say that I have only done a few clutch jobs - I'm not a pro.

Sorry to say but you may just have to take it apart and look for the problem. Keep us posted.

 

What is the correct size for the throwout bearing?

 

WorkInProgress,

How's your setup holding up? I finally snapped my trail fix setup and now I'm looking at copying yours.