Bleeding Front Brakes - '62 CJ5

I hope everyone is having a great Labor Day weekend!

As my question highlights, I don't have a ton of experience working on my jeep (new to me). Also, I read through a lot of the older posts and couldn't locate the answer...not to say it isnt up here already...

I have replaced the brake lines (original equipment was still on) front and back. I have bled the rear drums, easy enough with the bleeder right about the line inlet. I cannot find any bleeder valve on the front?? Am I just being daft or do you bleed at the junction near the MC where it splits to both fronts?

I greatly appreciate the help, looking forward to getting it back on the road!

Cheers,

Matt

 

Bleeders are at each front wheel just like the rear. If drum brakes it will stick through the backing plate just like the rear but be behind the knuckle so may be kind of hard to see. If you have disc brakes the bleeders will be toward the top of the calipers.

 

What Nick said, Still not sure on your question though....

 

Your bleeder valve may have been sheared off by a PO.

I have bled at junction blocks in emergencies, by loosening the nut, and also where the tube enters the wheel cylinder. But neither will release air trapped at the high point of a wheel cylinder.

 

Welcome from Ga. X2 above.

 

Thanks for all the quick replies!!

It was a poorly worded question, typed on the run at the airport while my 1 year old was speed-crawling his way to freedom.... My apologies.

I do not have permission to attach files for some reason... need to work on that, so the link to the drum photo is below:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/c1p36o90r3ykqsf/Front drums.jpg?dl=0

There is a stud adjacent to where the line comes in, but it is not a bolt head and it doesn't look like a bleeder sheared off. Not a great picture but could not get a better angle.

Here is the Jeep. Learned to drive in this guy, it deserves to be at its best again.

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/pxupc0tt5uc42kk/AABnSf5xdSoxmNS8E9x38nGka

Thanks again,

Matt

 

Should look like this. Bleed screw is at the top center.

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NzEzWDE1MDA=/z/LhsAAOSwEK9T4t6w/$_12.JPG?set_id=880000500F

 

Very helpful PeteL, thanks. I was assuming they would be very similar to the rears. However, that bleed valve doesn't exist on either front... I'll have to get some more cleaning done to find out what's going on. If the bleed valve is sheared off, is it replaceable? Might be prudent to swap both front wheel cylinders anyhow, they are at least 20 years old.

 

I would replace with new cylinders. Quick and easy, less than $20 each.

Hardest part may be getting the existing tube and nut free. Start now with the penetrating oil.

 

I see the brand new brake hose , but the bleeder screw looks like it just covered with crud . just can make out hole in middle . I think I would go ahead and replace them (both on same axle)

 

I just got back in from checking...bleeder is sheared off so now I will definitely replace the cylinders. I am in process of research other posts on removing front drums. I have not seen any that look like mine:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/l5g921475iexoqd/front drums top.jpg?dl=0

The drums definitely don't come right off. I tried to remove the flat head machine screws, only one came loose, assuming they are holding the drum on. I might have to drill those out, but would really like to avoid that option. It doesn't sound like removing the hub assembly is required, although I still have some reading to do.

I am definitely ordering a Jeep Service Manual today!!

Matt

 

If the drums do not need to be replaced, there is no reason to remove the drum from the hub. They come off as a unit. Remove the locking hubs and the spindle nuts and the hub and drum comes off.

 

I will be trying that either this afternoon or early tomorrow a.m.

I also ordered a Factory Service Manual from Kaiserwillys:
http://www.kaiserwillys.com/product/1679/willys-jeep-literature-mechanics-manuals-parts-accessories

I wish I could have put that money towards parts, but I think it is a wise investment.

Has anyone else ordered one from there? I have high expectations...

 

Pretty sure they are all the same reprints. But the reprints of the Kaiser manuals are good, from what I've seen.

Helpful to have a spindle nut socket - they are cheap from the Jeep retailers - http://www.kaiserwillys.com/category/s?keyword=A692

Kaiser-Willys is a little higher than most. http://www.oconeeoffroad.com/servlet/the-29911/omix-dsh-ada-JEEP-CJ-/Detail

 

Thanks again for the help and the links. Socket on order. The brakes get to wait a few days, bummer!!

 

Before you drill, the flat head screws often respond well to a hand-struck impact screwdriver, or even a large screwdriver being hammered. With screws removed the drum should come off the hub easily, especially if you back off the adjusters.
No need to remove the hub unless you want to service the bearings and seals.

The FSM will pay you back many times over.

 

Pete,

Had to drill out the screws this morning, just wouldn't budge. However only on one side, drivers side came right out thankfully.

Once the screws were out the drums came right off with some consistent wiggling. I'll post a photo later today.

excited to go through the FSM! Should arrive this week!

 

Pic. of drums removed. New wheel cylinders arrive this afternoon from Napa, potentially a new battery as well... then we try to fire it up!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/z957tqrvbkk9bfu/drums removed 2.jpg?dl=0