Brake line replacement question

In the process of trying to get my master cylinder off, the hard brake like going from the MC to the front junction where other hoses connect broke. I tried bending a hard line to match what came off, and was able to get both ends where they were supposed to be, but fluid leaks out from where it screws into the MC when the pedal is pressed. I'm not sure if I did the flare wrong, or maybe I just couldn't tighten the fitting because the line went into the fitting at an angle.

Should I try again with a new brake line and practice a few flares before hand? Or could I buy a braided stainless steel line about the right length that is more flexible and would go in much easier?

 

It sounds like you cross threaded the fitting. It will not seal. You will have to start over with new line. Be sure to check the threads on the MC.

 

Try a new flare and tube. Are you double-flaring with the correct double-flare tools?

 

Also, preparation is key to getting a good double flare.

 

Making double flares can sometimes take several tries to get a perfect result. You might consider going to an auto parts store (like NAPA) and buying a ready-made brake line. They can be had in assorted lengths, and can be easily bent to fit your application.
-Donny

 

Well I bought the line that was a little long, but had a flare on both ends, so I cut off one end and that's the end that is leaking.

I used the flare tool I borrowed from auto zone, I guess I just didn't do it right.

 

Cheap flaring tools do not work well, in my experience. Get another piece of tubing and try it again, or bend the extra tubing out of the way. But be super-critical of any flares you make.

Do you need a different size of nut for the MC end? You can buy short lengths of tubing with the larger nut, and join that to another length with a flare union. The proper unions are sold on a peg on the Dorman hardware racks. Adding a flare nut union in the middle of the line is fine. It is possible to put new lines together using standard pieces - then you'll have all factory-made flares, and it shouldn't leak.

I use only the Cunifer or Nicopp line now - no more steel. Much easier to work with, but significantly more expensive than steel.

 

The nuts on both ends are the same size. I think I'll try to get a closer match of the length and do what you said and bend the extra out of the way.

Would it he possible to just replace that whole piece with a piece of the braided stainless steel line that seems to be more flexible? I'm not really that knowledgeable about brake lines so I don't know if the diameter and nuts would match though

 

A key to good results is to chamfer both the inside and the outside of the cut end before flaring. Easy when you get the hang of it.

 

There are some excellent videos on "you tube" for flaring instruction.

 

Also make sure everything on both ends is very clean. I was going crazy with a brake line at the M/C leaking, there was a some dirt on the female side. Cleaned it and it sealed perfectly.

 

I got another 40" piece and cut some off. I took some more time with the flare this time, but the factory flare on the mc, and mine on the connector and no leaks!! Now to bleed and then I should be driving. Woohoo!!!
Thanks for the help!

 

Good deal!

 

The replacement line went on well. The front brakes work, although uneven I think. One of my lines going to the rear brakes must be clogged... No fluid when bleeding and no brakes whatsoever when the pedal is depressed.

 

That wheel cylinder may be frozen.

 

Try loosening the brake line at the wheel cylinder, see if you can pump fluid there... That will let you see if the line is blocked, or it's the cylinder bleed valve that is rusted up.

 

All four wheel cylinders are new, so I know its not that. I took the brake line off the wheel cylinder on the rear passenger wheel and no fluid came out. So I guess now it's time to disconnect the lines in other places to find out where the blockage is.

Also, my manual says I have a proportioning valve along the line going to the back, but I can't find one. Its a 67, so maybe it doesn't have one?

 

Suggest you get the factory manual - http://thejeep.com/shop/TECH+MANUAL...ECH+MANUAL+CJ3B+CJ5%252F6+12V+4+%2526V-6.html - just an example. These manuals are available from all the Jeep retailers.

 

I have it, but the diagram shows a dual reservoir master while mine is single. I heard somewhere that 67 was the year dual reservoirs were required but some jeeps still had the single