Turning a CJ5 frame to a CJ6

I searched for some past threads on turning a cj5 frame into a cj6 frame and came up with little. My situation is I have two cj5 frames, one (1967) the front 2/3 is beautiful but the rear 1/3 is swiss cheese. The other cj5 frame (1961) is somewhat thin in the front (around the motor mounts) and decent in the rear (2/3). Additionally, my cj5 tub is shot and I will have to find another tub anyway. Everything is already removed from both frames.

My plan was to weld (with gussets) the two good parts of the cj5 frames to make one decent cj5 frame. However, I'm considering lengthening the frame to make a cj6 frame.

What are your suggestions? Has anyone done this? Thanks.

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I'm not convinced you aren't better off just to buy a CJ-6 if that's what you want. Others have stretched CJ-5s into CJ-6s, but IIRC this is when they already have a significant investment in their CJ-5, and they wanted to reuse what they have. When you start with nothing, it's usually cheapest to buy the best vehicle you can find, as close to the final configuration as you can find. Complete vehicles are a lot cheaper than buying a lot of parts and pieces.

Also, CJ-5 frames aren't that scarce. Typically the bodies rust away way before the frames. I would first look around for a good frame before I spliced two bad frames together. Try a WTB on the Willystech parts board.

 

X2 on the "don't do it" suggestion. If you must have a CJ6, buy one, but trying to build a frame from two scrap frames is begging for unanticipated problems.

 

I would agree with timgr and kamel.............If you can find a nice rust free CJ-6 that suits your needs then buy it............On the other hand If your invested in good CJ-6 body already or have a CJ-5 your converting it may make some since. As far as taking two junk frames and making them into a stretched frame for a "Six" ...........why not just build a new frame out of 2x4 tubing? Much easier, it's already boxed, no rust to repair and you can put things where you want them and the base cost of the tubing is just over $200.

 

I agree with the previous posts -

 

I agree with the others but if your trying to build this on the cheap it should be very easy to splice a good front to a good rear.
I would cut the good front frame section near to the foreward edge of the rear spring pivot brackets.
I would cut the good rear frame section exactly 19-15/16" foreward of that same position.
Diagonal (45*) saw cuts would be ideal.
Leave a 1/16" gap, then precision align and heavily tack weld the sections together.
Recheck all frame dimensions for square, then weld both of the channel webs. (middle portions)
Go back over and weld each of the channel flanges in sequence.
When welding, weld the inside of channel only.
Grind away any excess penetration from the outside.
"Vee" and weld outside of channel if/where the weld lacks 100% penetration.
Check frame alignment again.
SOC (straighten on car) as needed.

Top off with a single 1/8" thick "football" shaped overlay patch on the outside of both channel webs.
Add a 1/8" thick by 1-1/4" wide strap at both the top and bottom of the channel flanges.
Inner frame channel stiffners are optional. (AKA boxing)

 

Hey just to let you know I actually used your directions above to put together my two cj5 frames. I changed the bracing however and added grade 8 bolts. I have pics up in the projects section if you're interested. Your feedback is welcome.

 

Where did you add the bolts? Additional bolt holes can add stress risers that allow cracks to form.

 

I added the bolts to the top and sides of the brackets I made. After I butt welded the 45 degree joint, I made an inner bracket and outer bracket, with the outer bracket slightly larger than the inner bracket so that I didn't weld on the same bead line. I then used the bolts to "sandwich" the joint together. I'll post pics. I did this to be sure the brackets held and as a fail-safe if my welds should give way. I built a trailer and did the same thing. I tend to overdue things to be rest easy at night. I thought it was better this way. After I fix the troubled spots I plan on boxing the frame.