Front brake drums-'68

When I changed the shocks, I was going to pull the drums to check the linings and for leaks. I was unable to wiggle the drums when I grabbed them.

After searching and looking at the literature, I have come to the conclusion that wheel studs have to be knocked back out of the drum and the hubs if one wants to service the brakes and remove the drum.

Is this correct, or am I missing something. Hate to use the 3 lb hammer if it does not need to be invoked. Not til I get mad, anyway...

Looks like it takes a puller to get the rears off.

 

First off make sure the brakes are backed off via the star adjusters..........and yes some require the studs knocked out, some have a pair of flat head tapered machine screws facing out that hold the drum to the hub, and the rears will sometimes need a puller............Is this a 1968 CJ ?, what motor? Does it still have the 9" drums and shoes or has someone upgrated?

 

For the fronts, just take the whole hub and drum off. Easy. You'll need the big socket and a new grease seal. In the field it would be fine to take the hub off and look, then put it back, if you needed to.

Ideally, the rear hub and drum should come off together if you pull the hub. You need a beefy puller for the rear hubs - it's been discussed a lot here. I think it's worthwhile to go to the effort of pulling the hub and drum together, if you are likely to reuse the drum. The machine shop can turn the drum with the hub in place, if needed.

I believe all '68s are 10" drums.

 

Yes, it's a '68 with the V6-225. Looks like ten inch drums to me

Don't see anyway/anywhere to use a big socket....guess I need a picture

 

FSM should be in your tool box or garage . lots of information . the big nut is behind locking hubs

 

I have the manual but I don't see the pic of the front...thanks for the tip

 

Courtesy of Vernco -



Take the nut off the end of the spindle and the hub and drum slides off as a unit. Don't separate the hub from the drum.

 

thanks! I understand now....

 

Aren't there lockwashers to be removed as well?

 

Yes, there should be 2 nuts for the front hubs, with a sheet metal locking washer in between. This sheet metal piece will have its edges bent to line up with the edges of the hex nuts to keep them locked together. You will have to use a pry tool of some sort (big screwdriver will work) to straighten the bent edges of the sheet metal lock enough to allow the nuts to turn.
Do yourself a favor and get the right socket for the nuts. You will probably see the marks from at least one previous owner named Bubba who used a chisel to turn the nuts, don't make it worse.

Don

 

A chisel is acceptable in the field, and a handy addition to your kit.

The Jeep retailers sell a light-duty socket for this purpose, and it's pretty cheap. You don't have to buy the $35 socket that Dr. Vern has. Replacement nuts and washers are also available cheaply in a kit.

 

Good opportunity to lube and adjust the bearings.

I confess - I'm the bubba who left those chisel marks... But it certainly is nice to have the right socket now.

 

I have not found much evidence that anything was lubed in many a year

 

Be careful of the Crown replacements. A little bird informed me they are thicker than the originals and can cause problems. Especially if you have a brake conversion.....


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