Help with CJ3A body specs

Still working on the M38 tub for my project and I'd like to add the center bow sockets for a future 1/2 cab. Can someone give me a measurement on the location? No big hurry. Also, in the rear corners of the floor there are oval holes, actually knockout plugs in my body, what are they for? There's no much holding the knockout in, debating if I should just weld them in. Thanks.

 

Are the oval holes where a rear seat's back legs would go?

 

The oval holes in the rear are for the rear seat clips. These are only needed if you plan on using an original type rear seat.

http://walcks4wd.com/clip-rear-seat-under-floor.html

I can measure the half cap pocket for you tomorrow from my '49.

 

OK, I think I'll weld them in then. Also need to decide if I want to remove the M38 seat brackets.

 

Or you could knock the knock-outs out and leave them for drain holes.

 

Looks to be 3 1/4" back.




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I think the tailgate opening is a big enough drain
I do need drain holes in the front, need to figure out where I want them.
Thanks for the measurement, I wasn't thinking or I could have figured it out myself, in line with the footman loops. The M38 didn't have the loops installed but there are indents where the holes would be.

 

Remember they are not completely vertical. If you have a top bow you can lean it back the appropriate amount for the top to make sure it fits. Jpet has a good drawing on the 2A pages somewhere of the proper leanback angle.

 

Bill, with the 3A, you can adjust that lean back angle. If you use the 2A top bows like I did by welding threaded rod on, you can adjust the middle top bow.

2A windshield to middle bow support:


My modified 3A one:


And as you can see, my top is very tight.

 

Nate is your first bow vertical? Your brackets look tilted back in the picture..

 

The picture of the bracket is from my '49. I know that when I welded them on to the '53s new body, I didn't angle them. I wasn't aware of it bake then. I know when I first put the top on, I messed with the adjustment until the top "looked right" with the proper amount of tightness. Just another reason why 3As are better than 2As. R) In this picture of the framework, the bow is leaning the wrong direction. Also, I ended up taking the two 3/8" rods the go between the rear bow and the middle one. They were making it a real pain in the arse to get the rear sides on.

 

Thanks for the pics. I'm not doing a restoration, but I do like to keep the vintage look, so I can really do whatever I want. I also don't want to pay big $ for a top, so I've been trying to think of how to make my own half-cab. Maybe even a hard cab. The other thing is I want at least a roll bar. About ten years ago I built this jeep shown below, the top is actually held up by the roll cage, there is no bow.

http:// jeep1 by wblbronco, on Flickr

 

I figured it was possible to build a 4 point roll cage under an original half cab. Looks great! I just put this half cab on my '49. There's plenty of room to put the same type of roll cage under it.

 

You wouldn't happen to have an extra half cab like that laying around

 

Nope, sorry.

 

What is the color on your Jeep. I like it. Kind of looks like a dark Salmon.

 

I think it is just red primer. It is the way I bought it.

Here's another shot. This jeep is all original, 4cyl, T90, 6 volt, foot starter, vacuum wiper, passenger hand wiper, and pretty decent tub. I have the original wheels for it and spare w/ the spare tire carrier. I'm just using these old school mudders until I can afford new tires for. To tell you the truth, I kinda like wheeling it more that the Jalopy.

 

Wow those tires look like Armstrong Trutracs...

Mike

 

Garage gnome,whats the color on your Jeep?