F134 will not run

A couple of weeks ago, the Jeep was running fine. While driving, it started to cut out. Not bad at first, but eventually bad enough that it would barely even run at all. First thought was a bad fuel pump, so I took it apart, and it looked perfect. I also replaced the filter and blew out the lines. None of this helped, so I took apart the carb and cleaned it. Still no luck. I then replaced the coil, which did not help. After installing, I also adjusted the timing. It will barely, just barely run if the timing is adjusted all the way down (not sure if this is advanced or retarded). It also seems to be running very rich, with lots of smoke (not from oil). It did run perfectly for about a minute, however, but it then suddenly completely shut off for no discernable reason. After some more fooling around it went back to where I started. What can I do now?

 

what color smoke? white, blue, black.
carter or solex carburetor?
check compression and post some clear pictures of your plugs while they are out.

 

White smoke that smelled like running too rich. Carter YF. Compression is pretty bad, but it has been. Spark plugs have black, dry soot, and last I checked they were wet with gas. So that would mean its ignition related. But, it has a new coil, and fairly new cap, rotor, points, condensor, wires, and plugs.

 

White smoke can be coolant. Blown head gasket?

 

Dont think so. The smoke is definitely from running rich/incomplete burning of fuel. I'm pretty sure its ignition, I just cant figure out what part. Since almost all the ignition parts are new, I'm thinking it must have something to do with the distributer, especially since adjusting it is the only way to get it to fire at all, however weakly.

 

what points were used, how were they gapped? how is the resistor?

 

Points came from autozone, gapped to .020 per the service manual. Are you refering to the ballast resistor to the coil? I dont have one.

 

did you put a new codenser in, the old boy's always said if it ain't bad don't change it. I always did and I had a bad one right from the git go once.

 

"The smoke is definitely from running rich/incomplete burning of fuel."

That would be more likely to be black smoke than the white you describe, IMHO. Coolant on the plugs could cause misfiring and incomplete burning of the gasoline mix.

 

^^^ this.

Bill

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

 

Hmm. How else could I tell if there was coolant leaking? I did install a new condensor. Cant remember for sure, but I think I tested it. This was a while before the problem started. I pulled out the distributer today, and noticed there was a lot of looseness, both between the shaft and the part where the rotor mounts and between the mount and the rotor itself.

 

"How else could I tell if there was coolant leaking?" Loss of coolant. Bubbling in the radiator tank. Hydrocarbon sniffer test for exhaust fumes in radiator. Compression test down on one or two cylinders. Moisture on spark plugs. ETC. This is all based on the "white" smoke described, which we cannot see. Oil burning can be similar, but smoke is more blueish. Also - any motor will put out moisture and white smoke at first when the exhaust pipe is cold.

Are you saying the distributor shaft is lose in it's bearings? That will make accurate point setting (dwell) impossible to set or maintain. Can cause rough running/hard starting.

 

The carb has been gone through, and as far as I know it is working fine. There is definitely no loss of coolant. The distributer shaft does not move side to side, but with the engine off I can twist the shaft at least 20 degrees. I dont know how much movement is acceptable.

 

This is the mechanical advance. You should feel resistance when you rotate the shaft and it should return by itself when released. If not then your advance springs are broken.

 

Ill test the condensor. I think the springs may be broken, but right now Im having a little trouble getting it apart. Those screws are stuck pretty good.

 

I had some problems with my engine, F 134 4 cylinder Hurricane. It was worse and worse and finally impossible to start.
I tried some tricks but fianlly I gave hive the my sepcialiszed mecahnic who canged many things, nothing important but ignition parts, carburetor, he checked the valves and afetrwards all was running very well. This is to say that, even with my positive action, I am not enough specialist to check all.
These parts are old and you cannot know what is in good condition or not. I was sure that someting was broken in the engine, but infact it was in very good condition. And now, all is in good condition, new parts, and I enjoy my Jeep.
So, if you don't succeed rapidly in repairing, get a good specialist, that's not expensive.

 

Condensor checked good, and the return springs are not broken. I decided to order a new fuel pump, because I want it to be new when the engine is overhauled anyway. If I cant get it running, it will be overhauled in a month or so anyway.

 

Even if you don't get it running properly before the overhaul, you are still learning about your rig and that I commend you for. Keep at it because it is a learning curve you will always remember. It is your rig and you can do as you please with it. Eventually it will get tired of you twisting it's nuts and it will begin to perform properly.