Broken bolt with a broken ez out in it?

What is the best way to remove an broken off exhaust manifold stud with a broken ez out in it? Its the center manifold stud on my F-134 its about 1/8th of an inch from being flush with the block. Do I have any hope or am I screwed?

 

Try tapping on the open area of the ez out with a small punch. If that does'nt work, you will have to shatter it. I had one once and used an ipmact hammer to break it up, then used a punch to work it out. Very time consuming tho. Take your time and it will come out.

 

I would weld (or have welded) a bolt with a head to the broken stud. It will give you something to grip and the heat of the welder will loosen it up some.

Scott

 

I had the same thing happen to me. I drilled it out with progressively larger drill bits until almost the entire bolt was gone except the threads and then I cleaned out the rest with the appropriate tap. I had to remove the fender to get a straight shot at it with the drill.

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I was wondering the same thing. Never been able to drill out an ez out.


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Would a carbide drill bit be able to do it?

 

Carbide grinding bits will do a little but it is not easy.

 

Another option is to remove the head, take it to an automotive machine shop, and have them remove the bolt.

 

Endmills work if you have a mill.

Personally, I try to avoid easy out like the plague. I always weld a nut onto the broken bolt or use the torch to heat it up.


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Not too sure about that. Endmills are usually the same materials as drill bits-HS, cobalt, carbide, etc. IMO, by the time you get either a bit or endmill that is hard enough to cut it, they are very brittle and will also break. No chance in he-- trying it off hand with a power drill and only slightly better clamped down on a mill table. If you can get a nut welded on it, that will be the way to go. I have also used a punch to break them up-a long process for the desperate.

 

I saw a guy drill one out on a bridgeport. Went through it like a hot knife in butter.

 

If welding a nut on it and melting wax into the threads while it is still hot does not work, I would be looking for a machine shop with an EDM.
Or a replacement cylinder head.

 

I've always had luck using heat and trying to break the easy out. Also try and gets punch in there and tap the easy out the opposite direction to loosen it's bite on the old bolt.

I stopped using easy outs because of this exact problem. I started using reverse drill bits and starting small. Work up to larger sizes oiling the bolt the whole time. Usually the reverse drill bit will eventually grab the bolt and spin it out. If it doesn't then you re-tap the hole afterward.

MB

 

Ok thanks could i be possible to take a ark welder and build up enough to weld a nut to and try and back it out that way? Since the welds wont stick to the the cast iron.

 

My engine has the rear exhaust stud broken off just below flush, I'm not going to mess with it. I'll have the rebuilder do it. I worked in machine shop that had a "tap burner" that essentially burned them out with an electric arc, so the hole could be redrilled and tapped. Broken taps and ez-outs are evil.

 

Sorry for not reading your thread more closely. I didn't realize the ez-out broke off in the bolt. The bold I drilled out did not have an ez-out stuck in it.