Saginaw help

I have searched and found lots of information, but, please help me better understand what I still need for parts (explain this to me like I'm a 2 year old).

A gentleman had a "kit" that he sold me that he hadn't installed. It consists of the plate to weld to the frame and 2 threaded tubes for the tie rods. I have a steering box and pump from a early-mid 70's Chev Chevelle.

My understaning is that the shorter tube will go from the steering box to the passenger's side spindle. The longer rod will then tie the spindles together. Correct? Assuming this is correct, what part is needed to accomodate both tie rod ends on the passenger side? Also, to connect to the pitman arm do you just purchase the appropriate tie rod end at the FLAP?

 

Do you have a D27 or D30. Assuming D27 you need a cross steer TRE and three regular TREs. The Pitman arm has a tapered hole in it just like the steering arms. The long rod is the tie rod (using the cross steer TRE on the pass side). The short one is a drag link and goes from the Pitman arm to the cross steer TRE. Speedway motors is a good source for the cross steer TRE.http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Cross-Steering-Tie-Rod-End,1540.html Just remember to get opposing TREs for each end, I think the cross steer TRE is left hand so you would need two right TREs and one left to complete it.:v6:

 

Thanks Rocky,

Just to make sure that I understand, assuming it has a D27 front end (it is a bone stock 69) then I will need to:

1) Get a new TRE for the driver's side tie rod.
2) Get a cross steer tie rod end for passenger's side.
3) New set of tie rod ends for the drag link, one goes in the cross steer TRE and the other to the pitman arm.

None of the existing TRE's are usable in the switch over?

 

John,

Is this Herm's rear mount steering set up using the Ford box? If it is how did that work out for you?

BTW--thanks for the input.

Kris

 

The pic shows a stock Ross steering system that's been converted to a single drag link single tie rod configuration. Improved handling just doing that. The bellcrank mounted to the crossmember by the grill is a dead giveaway.

 

That's pretty much it. The cross steer TRE from Speedway is tapered from both sides so if you end up doing a tie rod flip it will still work for you. The old cross steer from a stock setup is only tapered one way and the tool to fix it (tapered reamer) is more expensive than the TRE. But its up to you, the old ones are the same as new. Were it me, I'd go w/ new. They're only $10. I keep a couple of new ones in my toolbox.http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1948-64-Ford-Outer-Tie-Rods,6958.html Don't pay attention to the Ford bit, they're the right ones.:v6:

 

I might add that when I converted I initially went low steer but it was contacting the spring. So I did a Tie Rod flip w/ inserts from here.http://www.goferitoffroad.com/products.htm Even w/o the necessity of it, it's a good upgrade.:v6:

 

Do those same TRE's fit a Dana 30?

 

sh

 

Troy, you can get your dana 30 tie rod ends at NAPA, Autozone or Advance auto and save shipping and there about the same price.

 

I'm doing a setup like this on my Jeep but I notice on most all of the pictures I look at the tie rod ends are going into the bottom of the steering knuckles. Mine are going from top to bottom. What gives? Any ideas? Have yall reamed out your steering knuckles or something?

 

If yours are going top to bottom yours are the ones that have been reamed out. The factory setup went from the bottom up and had the nuts and cotter pins on top as in the above pics.

 

well that really throws a monkey wrench in my plans... Crap.