Hyro clutch in CJ.... Will these parts work?

I have a 74 cj5.....and...anyone who has one around the same era knows... the clutch linkage SUCKS!

so, I am going to bite the bullet and put a hydraulic clutch in it. I have done a ton of reading on this.

I was just going to take the entire linkage out of a wrangler, untill......

I went to/called all the junk/salvage yards this weekend, and NON of them have a standard transmission wrangler jeep! I thought they were kidding me!

I am trying not to spend too much money on it, so I didn't want to buy everything brand new.

So, I did more reading, and decided to go with an 1980 cj5 iron duke slave cylinder. I can get one brand new for $24.

The master is 80$,
So my question is, if I go back to the salvage yard, what master cylinder could I get that would work with:
A) the iron duke slave
B) My CJ5 clutch peddle

Would any master work, or would a jeep cherokee slave work? What should I look for?

Thanks for your help!

 

Are you with original pedals? What about the bellhousing?

The master/slave ratio is normally 1:1, so first you'll have to know the size of the slave or master to determine the other.

I used the 80's CJ master/slave combo and I still had to modify the slave cylinder push rod and the fork return spring in order to get the correct throw and return. My situation is a little different maybe since I am using '79 pedals.

Definitely read through the Novak site on clutches, there is lots of good educational info there.

This is one of the articles that I used.

 

For myself i bought a slave cylinder and a master one from an auto-part (napa) for 100$ ( from a 1980-1984 4 cylinder jeep cj). It work very good on my 360/t18 combo i should work for you.re set-up. I use my oem pedal. I drill a hole at the right place on my clutch pedal for the master cylinder arm. Set-up is working good and it took less energy the push the clutch pedal.

 

How far down the pedal did you drill. Any pictures of that?

 

Hum I'll need to check if i can take some pics!!!

I check where on the pedal i get the most travel and i drill the hole there.

 

I must be the odd man out here, I have zero problems with the mechanical linkage... It's light and has a nice predictable feel.

 

Is your linkage all worn out?

 

I've read that some people have experienced failure of the linkage, especially when there is frame flex while offroad.

There are some "fix's" for the mechanical linkage which helps with that. I believe some folks changed to heim joints at certain places, you'll have to look that up though since I can't explain it any further.

 

Ye exactly that happen to me, but i have a fiberglass body and body and frame use to flex a lot so sometime i lose all clucht and i realy dont like it...but with hydro clutch never got the problem again!!!

 

Every Single time I take it out, I either
A) Have to adjust the clutch from when the jeep torques it rides the pressure plate,
B) Have the linkage come off
C) Have the frame torque, and either:
Have the clutch stuck engaged, and get stuck going foward in gear
Orrrr, Have the clutch get stuck disengage, and and be stuck where I am and either have to push or winch onto level ground

I too have a fiberglass body. The linkage hooks from the pedal on the body, to the frame, and then to the tranny. So if the body torques on the frame, of the tranny torques on the frame, it is all out of adjustment

 

i have a glass body and zero issues changed the ends of all the rods to joint ends i got em here http://www.speedwaymotors.com/search-rod-end.html?page=GRID

 

I also have a fiberglass body.

Is your transmission torque arm connected?

I suggest you inspect the system, for worn of lose components. Before you spend the money on the hydraulic clutch.

 

I can take a look at the linkage. Just after reading that everyone else has had such problems, I figure I am just in the same group. Mine only bothers while rock crawling and such. It does not bother during normal driving.

 

Also check for frame cracks where the clutch pivot bolts to the frame. Have seen many intermediate frames crack or break there. This allows way too much frame flex causing clutch linkage issues.
IMHO a hydraulic system is one of the best conversions a Jeep used off road can see.


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I expect these cracks come from the spring mount below the clutch pivot, and do not originate from the clutch forces. Heavy springs / big wheels and tires plus Rat Patrol action likely stresses the frame there. Wagoneers with lift springs tend to tear the mounts off the frame in the same location - same principle.

 

Very possibly/probably Timgr that has a lot to do with it. I've had 3 Intermediate frames that were cracked and/or broken on the driver side only. Have had to repair a few others for people. This leads me to believe the mechanical linkage is adding a lot of stress to the frame at this point. Have also seen a few that you could see the tub try and lift off the frame here.


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Hum my frame cracked last year at this place, repair has been done but sound weird that couple a guy had the same problem.

For myself hydro clutch has been one of the best mod i've done for off-roading, that and a brake booster imouahahah.

 

You can add me to the list as well. My frame cracked in the same place, about the same time my clutch linkage started to have problems. Went hydro and and fixed the frame and all is right with shifting again.

 

Yeah!! It seems everyone that has gone with the hydro clutch install say it is the best mod they have done. Those of you that have put a hydro clutch in, what setup did you use?

Last spring I went completly through the jeep. There was only one crack, a little in front where the rear part of the front spring attaches to the frame. The clutch bothered before it cracked, and after it was fixed still

 

amc 360, t18(big ratio) dana 20 combo.