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Axle suprises

Discussion in 'Flat Fender Tech' started by godevil, Aug 28, 2006.

  1. godevil

    godevil My Humor isnt appreciated

    Trying to put a 25 together for the Tellico trip and you never know what you will find!
    Dana's to the left of me Bendix to the right here I am stuck in the middle again!R)
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Going to put a lock right in the front, anything to look out for? Or are they as easy to install as I hear.
    I have a complete spare rear and am thinking about welding the spiders in it,I would love ant input on welding the gears,I am going to start searching threads now.
    Donnie
     
  2. neptco19

    neptco19 That guy....

    yup lockrites are as easy as you've heard. Very strait forward....
     
  3. sagegoat

    sagegoat The good life........

    Who stained the deck and scratched it?R) :beer:
     
  4. Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Looks like a picnic table/work bench to me! Ha Ha! That's the first Bendix joint I've ever seen. My old Utility Wagon had the Rzeppas in the front.
     
  5. sagegoat

    sagegoat The good life........

    I need to get these Hienekin glasses checked out!R) :beer:
     
  6. godevil

    godevil My Humor isnt appreciated

    Where better to install a "lunchbox locker" than a picnic table!!
     
  7. w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Lock_Rite is an easy upgrade, just be prepared to have to remove the carrier so you can remove the ring gear if you have 5.38 gears. (The cross-shaft can't slide out, the ring gear gets in the way)

    I would never even consider welding a diff that will see street use, and "lincoln lockers" are also known to be hard on axle shfts off road, since there is no give at all. Either one tire has to break traction, or something breaks. :(

    If you are going to only lock one axle, I would put the lock-rite in the rear. You need the traction when climbing UP, and most of the vehicle weight is on the rear axle then. You can always add the front locker later! ;)
     
  8. godevil

    godevil My Humor isnt appreciated

    Thanks just the feedback I was looking for.
    I was not prepared to remove the ring gear so thanks for the heads up.
    Any problems with getting it to all go back together if that is all I am doing?
    I have a complete rear that I am going to weld up and play with. I was going to install a lock right in my rear also but this will be a cheap alternative for the trip.
    I am thinking of running my military flanges on the 25 front so I won't have any locking hub problems-any thoughts?
     
  9. Hansh

    Hansh Going Mobile

    When I installed my Lock-rite it was easy, except I had to grind off a little extra casting inside the carrier. There was just a little bit, which would not allow me to slide the parts in, a little grinding and it went right in.
     
  10. vajeeper

    vajeeper Member

    I've thought about welding spiders many times, ultimately, I've decided against it. My buddy who first told me about it ran a welded rear on a circle track pinto he raced. The car never broke the welds on the track as there was always some give in the tires.

    However, he routinely broke welds when moving the car around the parking lot to load it on a trailer. This goes to show you how poorly the gears take to welding.

    FWIW - I wouldn't run a welded diff on a trail ride for its maiden voyage, or even one of the first few times you take it out. Being stuck is a lot better than being stranded.

    Edit: Also, is it worth potentially damaging your R&P with some loose metal from a broken weld to try this?
     
  11. w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Bad, very bad indeed. Like, as in shattering the differential case bad. :(
     
  12. godevil

    godevil My Humor isnt appreciated

    Did you just compare my beautiful little flatfender to a PINTO?
    You sir are cold.
    Like I said,this is a complete brake to brake SPARE rear end.I will still have my current rear to run on the street. I am not really worried about the welds breaking my "thoughts" question was really pointed twards the flanges for the front instead of warn hubs.
    I do however appriciate the concern everyone has shown for this poor little Dana 44 the prayers and get well soon cards are greatly appriciated.
    I being the ruthless Monster that I am WILL weld up this little axle unless CASH,cold hard cash is sent in unmarked envelopes to my current address.
    Yes it is up to you. Can you hear it whimper as I stand over it with torch blazing in hand????????HAHAAAAAAHAHAAAAAAAAAA!!!!:twisted:
     
  13. neptco19

    neptco19 That guy....


    I put hubs on the front of mine, but at the time I was flat towing it alot. So it made it much easier to unlock the front than climb under and unhook the dshaft. But now I trailer it and still run them, I carry the flanges with me incase something happens to the hub I can use them as a spare. As for welding it, go for it. After driving a couple jeeps around the shop that are welded in the rear, they dont drive ANY different than my TJ with a lockrite in the rear. So goldmember will be getting welded very soon, just as soon as I can get some free time on a lift at work.
     
  14. runnamuck

    runnamuck look out!

    come on, du it. du it.
    if welded right, you will be more likely to break shafts than the carrier/gears. i've had 4 or 5 fronts and rears. all were driven on the street at one point or the other. i would snap the shafts in the 44s if something were to go, and iirc they were 30 splined. 10 splined should be even weaker, thus go first. in the front if you don't have power steering, i would probably go with hubs to help out on tight turns. if you got ps, then go flages. i've had both a welded and a detroit in the front and have yet to notice the diffence when turning.
     
  15. JeepTherapy

    JeepTherapy Sponsor

    have you considered a "mine spool" for the rear? IIRC they are very cheap.... I considered one for a while and ended up buying a detroit instead because my jeep will spend most of its time on the street.
     
  16. runnamuck

    runnamuck look out!

    mini spools are great, same effect as a welded just easier to reverse the process. i don't know of any coarse spline mini- or full spools. if you're wanna spend money to get a spool, get a full spool. either spool is gonna require axle swap or full floater or custom shafts, yahda, yahda, yahda to get the splines right. read $$$. why, when welding is relatively free.
     
  17. godevil

    godevil My Humor isnt appreciated

    My newest suprise.
    Seems when that joint turned loose it took a nice chunk out of the ball at the kingpin.
    I think weld to fill and file it back to shape?
    Thoughts?
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    You can see the shape of the bearing race in the 2nd pic.......... little camera works pretty well in macro mode!
    Donnie
     
  18. runnamuck

    runnamuck look out!

    if i were you i'd get another housing for safety sake. i wouldn't want the end ball breaking at the kingpin going down the road.

    what axle you got? i assume 25 w/ 5.38s. i've got a 25 and a couple of 27s laying arround in nc that i will probably never use. pm me if you need one.
     
  19. godevil

    godevil My Humor isnt appreciated

    Thanks for the offer Mike.
    It is a 25 with 5.38's and the whole project has me pretty frustrated now.
    This axle was to replace the 25 that is under the jeep now.That pinion is fubar,you can rattle it from side to side with your hand. I am going to take it to a shop and see if that pinion can be repaired ,But may take you up on the offer......

    Rockwells now that would fix my problem!R)
     
  20. jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    X2