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Saginaw Conversion

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Mark Wemple, Jul 1, 2022.

  1. Mark Wemple

    Mark Wemple New Member

    This maybe the equivalent of an what oil to use question but, looking at the Saginaw conversion I'm seeing tons of information and a lot of different ways to do it including changing the steering column, going to a Dana 30, power steering and so on. The 64 is stock and I'm trying to figure out the most straight forward way. No power steering and stock column.
     
  2. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    You already answered mostly - no power and original column.

    It's not an easy conversion. You already understand what you need. Look for someone here that has done what you want, and copy them. Or come up with your own design. That's pretty much it. The old posts here are provided as a reference for you, and you can ask more specific questions. Use one of the online search engines like Google or Bing and search the forum for specific topics.

    https://www.bing.com/search?q=site:earlyCJ5.com+which+manual+saginaw+steering+gear
     
    Mark Wemple likes this.
  3. Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Ol Fogie and Mark Wemple like this.
  4. Jeepsterjim

    Jeepsterjim Member

    look into advanced adapters sag steering conversion kit. might be just right for ya.
     
    Mark Wemple likes this.
  5. Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    You may also consider rebuilding the original Ross steering. While kind of hokey and complicated, it works quite well when it's in good condition. My '69 with a rebuilt Ross box, drag link, and bell crank drives at 60mph just as comfortably as my Saginaw converted '71.

    If you were doing power, I'd say go Saginaw by all means.
     
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  6. Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Fireball likes this.
  7. Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hah! I knew you would chime in when I said that. :rofl:

    Yours is probably beyond the scope of most but you can't deny the benefits of the cylinder pushing against the axle so the frame horns don't see the loads.
     
  8. Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Agreed, I wanted to do it that way same as Nate did but for whatever reason I just could not make it work right, the diff cover just kept getting in the way. Hence the mount on the cross member. :(

    I still maintain that without a winch & with a conventional pump it would be a quick & easy conversion.
     
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  9. skipilot

    skipilot Member

    One of the notes on the AA kit says it should not be used with stock 4cyl engines. It doesn’t say why but I expect it’s about exhaust clearance for the intermediate steering shaft. My junk is a ‘69 with a v6 that already had the manual conversion. I’m overall happy with how it works but would have executed it slightly different if I had been the one doing it. If I where you, I’d convert to one piece tie rod, make sure all your steering connections are in good shape, and check your alignment for proper toe and caster (which will probably need adjustment by shims). Then reevaluate if you think you need to go Saginaw. The stock steering is not much different than on you ‘60 Rover. Good luck.
    Tim
     
  10. cj2atruck

    cj2atruck Member

    I've probably done 30 if these in the last 4 decades, most before kits were common, and the conversion is not that hard if you can weld. I used to just head to the local pick and pull yard and grab a box out of a 70s Chevy (Impala was common) and a GM steering column and do the swap. Even made my own tie rod and drag link since I was always on a budget, and never had a failure.

    On my 47 truck conversion, I found a used Saginaw box, made my own tie rod and drag link from DOM tubing and heim joints, and bought a steering column and shaft off eBay. Found a power steering pump and brackets that fit my 231 V6 and had the pressure hose made since I have a lot of modifications. I have less than $500 for the entire conversion for all parts.

    Since I used heim joints, I also drilled the knuckles to 5/8" and put the tie rod on top of knuckles for more clearance. I can now steer my 47 with a thumb and finger on the steering wheel at 65 mph, so super stable.

    It's important to know that the exhaust is going to be a problem, but I use headers to eliminate this issue.

    If you want a solid driver, go with power steering.
     
    jeepstar likes this.
  11. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    The OP does not give any details about his Jeep in his post or in his profile.

    Adding power steering to a 134 cid Jeep takes more engineering than the 225 or swapped engines. There is no native power steering pump for that engine, and you have to figure out mounting and plumbing. Also questionable whether the parasitic load is a good idea in that application. However, there's nothing stopping you from installing manual Saginaw in any of these Jeeps.

    Does the OP even own the Jeep yet?
     
  12. nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    The thing that I dislike about the AA mount is it puts the steering gear up really high.
     
    Fireball likes this.
  13. Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    I'm one of the opposite - I like my boxes up high and have used AA's mount, but I prefer the ones McRuff made. He may have some, or he may have retired from doing them.
     
    jeeper50 likes this.