Manual Locking Hubs For The Rear Axle?

I’ve searched a bit but I’m not getting the full answers that I’m hoping for. My wife and I are thinking of getting a motorhome and using a dingy. I know I can flat tow my 2015 JKU Wrangler with no problem. Question is on our 67’ Jeepster... tranny in gear tcase neutral... still might be an issue... I’m not taking disconnecting the drive shaft every day. I called DTS here in Michigan they think I need a larger/newer rear axle to put the locker in. Anyone have any thoughts?? Also thinking of disc brakes in the front as I do the rear. Swap out front and rear axles for “new reliability” ? Thoughts/experiences? We would tow the 67 instead once in awhile.

It’s a very stock 67 and as one person said.. “oh look he has the wimpy axles” that was way back at a Midwest willys meet in Michigan btw lol

Thank you in advance!
Tony

 

Does the jeepster run a D20? I’m not sure the D20 has the same possible oil starvation problem as the D18s can purportedly have when flat towed.

as for rear locking hubs, that’s what you can use to drive your hubs , and therefore tires, when you make a full float conversion on a d44. Do a search for more information on that.

people who ridicule your axles are ignorant. You can put any locker you like in your that come in 19 spline and 30. The shop wants to make money off you, a lot. If your d44 is a flanged center mounted carrier, you probably have 30 spline axles and any locker will bolt in.

 

Just went out and checked. I compared it to a chart and it looks like a Dana 30. Most of you guys have big rear ends... doesn’t sound right Change that to Dana 44’s... lol posting a not so good pick

 

Best I can get of the tcase at the moment. When I was a kid we towed it from Michigan to Nevada and back and there wasn’t an issue... lucky??? That was 1969. (now I don’t want to ask for a headache)

 

I have read the flat towing threads, general consensus seemed to be, in gear/tcase neutral
But don’t go to far to fast and best to unbolt the drive shaft... I remember us doing the first two, but the latter... not so much. Lol
If it’s behind an RV I won’t be able to really see, hear or feel much of anything that is happening back there until there’s smoke....
If it’s not an issue then great, if I can/should put manual hubs like the front on also great. If I need a Dana 44 instead of the D30 then I’m good with that also.
This winter she’s getting a new top and cleaned up she been sitting way to long and I’m not happy about that but life happens....

 

The Dana 18 has both outputs down in the oil so by having the Transmission I'm 3rd it keeps the upper shafts from freewheeling and if anything should bump into gear it will be least harm to the motor and Transmission. The dana 20 as pictured would have the rear output high and dry to speak.
If you're only taking it on a few trips per year than maybe put the jeep transfercase in neutral and Transmission in gear and fire it up whenever you stop to oil the rear output.
Long trips definitely pull the driveshaft.

For regular towing full float and locking hubs make sense. Sounds like disk brakes are in the mix so instead of 1 off custom parts for a dana 30 rear axle. Maybe have a centered dana 44 built with disk brakes and lockout hubs (Hermtheoverdriveguy comes to mind) this might be cheaper in the grand scheme of things since it would match a lot of other rigs being built.

Note: I see "locker" and "lockout hubs" getting used interchangeably here.
Lockers typically replace the spider and side gears in the center of the axle to lock the axle shafts together side to side so left and right wheels pull in mud, snow, and such.
Lockout hubs like on the ends of the front axle seperate the axle shaft from the wheel assembly so the gears don't turn as the jeep rolls along.

 

Go with a d-44 centered diff with a flotation axle that has locking hubs.....that's the best way.
I used to flat tow my Commando over 3K miles a year and never had a problem. Simply put the D-20 x-fer in neutral and went down the road. I did have a stock d-44 diff though.

 

Seems that the Dana 30 rear axle was used in 66-67 commandos and replaced with the D44.

I would run that axle until it explodes, *IF* it ever does. You may never have any problem with it, but a centered D44 should be a direct swap provided the ratios are the same as the front. You can buy a locking differential for this axle, but I would hold off until you find a need for a D44 since the price is double what I would pay for a matching gear ratio D44 on the high side.
DANA 30 LOCKERS, POSITRACTIONS

 

I wouldn't spend the money to have FF axles made for the 30 rear axle.
As others have mentiond, I'd look for a 44 which gives you more options.
Don't toss the 30 until you have looked to see if it has a powr lok inside....

 

Thank you for the replies! I’m thinking the plot just thickened... looking into the Dana 44 upgrade with manual locking hubs. Since she has 10inch brakes, looks like the front has to get and upgrade and the power brakes... lol
Do you think I can do drum rear with manual rear hubs or at this point 4wheel disc? And at this point do I keep the closed knuckle 27 and convert to disc or change that to an open knuckle 30? Thoughts? (This can of worm is growing )lol

since she’s tucked into the corner of the garage I can’t crawl under to measure the axles is the rear on my 1967 Dana 30 50”? Front Dana 27 is the same as the later ones? 51.5” ?

thanks again!
Tony

 

Iv seen a quick driveshaft disconnect kit they make for rv'ers I dont remember the details. Might be an option or something custom using a tractor pto quick disconnect. call a driveshaft shop maybe they have ideas

 

D-30 narrow track frt. diff with Geo track disc brakes is a nice upgrade.
FF centered rear diff are nice-----weak point----locking hubs---- they stripe out! might want to use the old spline hub like what is used on early CJ's without locking hubs. When wanting to tow, use the old style hubs with the splines removed. Like the old Warn summer hubs. Just a thought.

 

The 30 rear has asmallerdiameter and different bolt pattern housing end with an odd offset. Ran into this when trying to set a customer up with a brake conversion. Forget trying to full float one. Get a 44 then do what you want with it. Right out of the gate they are much stronger and parts are readily available for them.

 

I read the Geo tracker disc brake conversion. I like the idea of the rotors being able to be removed without tearing the hubs apart.

Waiting for the quote for a rear D44 axle with manual hubs. And I looked up the wildcard of the disconnect drive shaft. If she was going to go banging around a trail... probably not but for our use.... it’s not out of the question! New drive shaft with the disconnect on it and the mechanism for in cab release. $1125 +$60 shipping. Here’s a link for it if anyone need some reading material. It’s meant for a dingy and our Jeepster isn’t a trail crusher..
Front Page

thanks again for your opinions and experiences!
Tony

 

Fantastic rock collector. Wonder how much mud it takes to jam things up.

 

Front disc brakes for the 67 Jeepster, if I go disc on the Dana 27 and would like to have the disc on the outside of the hub for removal. And keep my stock 15” rims with the 2 piece hubcaps

Pretend everything cost the same.... try not to flame please. experiences with either? Third? Fourth option? I’ve done a lot of searching hard to do a comparison. I understand cheaper (Dutch heritage!! Lol)

• Geo tracker conversion currently all I could find are used/rebuilt calipers, some drilling and a metric to English brake line. And one of the member said 1/2 inch spacers(Maybe a bit of grinding but close)
• Jeepsterman kit GM parts rotor on outside of hub bolt on... but maybe 1 1/2 inch spacers to run stock, might look goofy(er)? Lol

Any thoughts? I would like to have easy maintenance (especially after this summers many brake jobs) on the other cars because of high water

Thank you
Tony