Scott's '66 Continuous Modifications.

I bought the floors and the supports - aftermarket type.
Check these...
Front Floor Brace Joiner Brace 1945-1975 CJ, M38, M38A1, DJ Models

 

Thanks!

 

The floor panels that I bought...
1951-1975 JEEP CJ5 & M38A FLOOR PAN NEW 18 GAUGE DRIVER SIDE | eBay

 

Those are the ones I got as well. I removed both front floors, since they were almost gone. I also have to replace the rear floor. I have a doubt in how to proceed. Should I place the front floors first and then remove and replace the back floor or the other way around? Any approach suggestion is appreciated.

 

I'm not the best one to ask as I'm a first timer at this. I'm sure your right to think that one at a time is better - easier to keep it all straight.

 

Thanks! I'll let you know how it turns out. This weekend I had it dedicated to that but my wife's cousin had a boo boo in his car and now I have to replace his timing belt! (the car's timing belt, of course!)

 

I would go with the cab floors getting done first considering you already removed the old ones.
Otherwise things might get weird and out of shape too easy.

If both cab and cargo floors are shot then the riser between them might need to be looked at as well.

If it does need replacing as well, then doing the cab floors first would let you chop out the riser about and inch above the floor level if it is cactus, which leaves the cargo floor and part of the riser still keeping thing reasonably square.

 

That makes sense. I had considered the idea of removing the tub and placing it on the floor to create a plane, but I realized the back fenders are not at the same height. Should I try to remove the tub or not? Thanks a lot!

 

I did my body repair while it was off the chassis, so I would recommend doing it that way.

Probably be easier than working around the frame rails and it is able to be rolled over to get at spots that might be hard to clean up otherwise.

 

I totally agree that removing the tub will make the job of replacing the floors Much Much easier. I had mine standing on the tailgate for most of the cutting and prep. Only laid it down to get the floors mostly welded in then back on the tailgate to make the work near eye level.

 

If is on the tailgate (mine is a 62 CJ5) doesn't that messes up with the tabs for the tailgate hooks?

 

Well... nothing on mine was anything like "pristine" so standing it on end wasn't a big deal, Yes it took the paint off the tabs and lower tailgate areas but nothing that I didn't need to repaint already.

 

There are some plans for a fairly easy to build rotisserie if setting the body on the ground doesn’t work for you

From 3D drawing to Rotisserie

 

The tabs do make it lean a bit but they wont get damaged. Some timber blocks placed strategically can level it up.

I found that standing the body up on the nose end worked OK as well because its a flat plane on a 5. That works good when doing the rear deck.
Having said all that, I sat mine up on a set of trestles to do most of the work on my last project.

This is my 3B with the firewall and cab floor being done first.



If you are on your own trying to turn it over just take care it doesn't get away from you when you're moving it around.


I think you will find it is easier if you roll the body around a bit more than you might expect you will have to, to get at the spots you need to access, it makes it far easier to do things when you're not trying to work over your head or awkwardly in a corner that's hard to get at.

Never used a rotisserie myself but do see the value of one.

 

Thanks! I was just concerned about bending the tabs not the paint! When the floors are gone like mine are, paint integrity is not an issue.

 

Thanks! I will check it out and see if I can work with it. I will let you know.

 

Man, seeing your body (the tub ) gives me hope! Mine is in a similar condition and it helps to see someone else going through the same. I will try setting up a 2x4 frame to work on it while leveled. Thanks again!

 

I will try to fabricate the front floor support braces out of square 1x2. Since mine are rotten/gone past reconizables, does anyone have a layout or sketch I can use as a guide?

 

Depending on where you are in Miami, I have a replacement hat channel for the passenger side that could be traced for a pattern, flipped for the left side. I could possibly meet up at the bottom of the 18 mile stretch? The hat channels can be replicated in rectangular tubing by miter-cutting the joints, but the originals had curves. All they really do is support the floor and align with the mounts on the chassis.
I have positioned an assembled full hat channel assembly in place on the frame, then placed the tub with fresh floor pans on that, then tack welded the channel tomthe floor. You can get perfect alignment that way.
-Donny

 

Thanks! I would like to do so. Let me know when is good for you and I will make it. I don't think there is a lot of jeep people down south.