Parking Brake

Anyone ever put in a parking brake using a floor mounted handle between the seats? I am running a D20 T case with the D44 rear axle so I trying to come up with a parking brake option.

 

It's been discussed for years. IIRC prople have brake handles from old Pintos, Vegas and VWs. I imagine you could go online and find something from the usual sources. You could do something like Duffer did and use parts from a snowmobile and use a hydraulic system with a disk brake. Some of the military vehicles, I believe had a center mounted Ebrake handle but in all cases you would have to figute out the cable routing or hoses to fit. I suppose even a handle off of a Volvo would work.

 

Did a search and nothing specific came up. Did some research and looked at Lokar's catalog. Using their cables (RC-80FU) , handle (XEHB-7000F) and boot (70-EHBF) looks very straight forward. Pricey though, probably take a walk thru the local junk yard first. Will post photos when available.

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=site:earlycj5.com+floor+mounted+parking+brake+&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8

Typically these floor-mounted handles have two cables going into them, one from each rear wheel. Are you using the 11" brakes with the cable operated parking brake? Then this arrangement should work well. There are a lot of cars with the pull handle between the front bucket seats. I'd check the junkyard for suitable donors.

 

I used front disc brakes from a Subaru on the rear, with the accompanying handle in my 3b. (80's Subaru GLs had front-mounted purely disc e-brakes.) Both cables come into the cab. Other cars used single cable handles, like most older Volvos as mentioned.

 

Pretty much any Ford passenger car that had a floor mounted E-brake handle is a good donor for this sort of thing. They're getting a *little* harder to find in the yards, but the Pinto/Mustang II handle has been *real* popular in the hotrod crowd for years.

 

The M38A1 brake handle is simple and effective, if you can adapt to an actuating rod that goes vertically down through the floor.
Mounts between the seats.

 

That's the handle I was thinking of. I was wondering about how it would with a PTO but Ican see that shouldn't be a problem. If you were running a PTO and overdrive I can see the seat mount becoming the major issue

 

thats perfect.

 

Here is the one I used, all the brackets and hardware to attach the cables.
Nice small handle.
http://www.circletracksupply.com/egr-emergency-brake-lever-kit-combo-package.html?category_id=234

 

Curious ....... Why not use the stock dash mounted cane handle with 11" Bendix rear drums?

 

I used a complete set up from an XJ in my 3B. It has a single cable that goes through the floor board to a bracket that splits off into to two cables, one for each drum. Mine is running an AMC model 20 rear axle. Works perfect, plenty of them in the junkyard.

If I ever go to disk brakes in the rear I will have to look at ITLKSEZ's Subaru solution, sounds interesting.

 

Another option for a handle is one from a DJ or from a forklift. It's a cam style handle that lifts straight up, has a small footprint, uses the rod through the floor, and the handle itself is adjustable to fine tune the cable adjustment. My old Champion motorhome even used one.

 

yep. Available from Gruman truck catalogs, etc. http://store.stepvanparts.com/PARKING-BRAKE-HANDLE-10970.HTM

 

I used early-mid 70's Toyoda handles (because that's when it was put together). The driver's side is the e-brake and just has an arm welded to the Toyoda mechanism and a rod from there to the stock D18 e-brake arm. Simple and very effective. The passenger side lever is the one hooked to a remote brake master cylinder beneath the floor which is (or actually was) the winch brake. The use of that has been discontinued with the 8274, but leaving everything not attached to the winch so I can still use the older Warn/Belleview's if the 8274 pukes for some reason.

 

I tried that in the early '80s on an M38 I had with 11" brakes. Did not have enough force to hold brakes. Attached a pulley and 2-parted the cable--still didn't have quite enough force. I didn't mess with it any more but I think a simple lever in the cable system to get a 3:1 or 4:1 advantage would work well.

 

I had the same experience - also in the eighties. Installed 11" brake kit from 4wheel parts wholesalers. Also purchased their parking brake kit. If I recall correctly the kit had a lever that replaced the stock brake lever on the transfer case. It was a piece of barstock maybe 1/4 x 1" and a bit longer than the stock lever. I think the cable from the cane handle (55 cj5) was moved outboard on the crossmember and connected to the end of the new lever. The cable from the new rear brakes then connected to the new lever at about mid length with a j bolt. Just could not apply enough pressure to hold the brakes well. Now I would like to go back to the drum brake on the transfer case (have the parts) and also have a floor mounted handle for the parking brakes in the rear brakes. I would like to do the full float axle conversion some day and fear that if someone were to unlock the rear hubs the transfer case brake would be rendered ineffective.

 

Yeah propeller shaft parking brake and rear locking hubs could be a bad combination.
Solid rear axles with integral flanges might be in order for use with transfer case brake.

 

One of the SM420 transmissions I aquired still had the "hand brake" lever and latching mechanism which was common in trucks in the 40's, 50's and 60's. My goal is to use this lever (modified or mimicked) to actuate the the 11" parking brakes on the rear axle. It will require some engineering and fabrication (both fun things), and probably require the transfercase levers to be reshaped a bit for clearance. While a parking brake handle of this type may not be "correct" for a Jeep, it is from an old Jeep's era. And besides, what old Jeeper doesn't want another lever coming up through the floor? :^)