Tie Rod Flip Kit Advice

I am debating between 3 tie rod flip kits for my 75 CJ 5.

1. Rock equipment, ream old holes and install new inserts. Kit is $119. Retains factory TRE castle but and cotter pin.

http://ok4wd.com/featured-products/rock-equipment-tie-rod-flip-kit

2. Goferit.com, drill holes to 3/4" weld in new inserts. $45 for inserts and new lock nuts since castle nuts will not screw far enough down to allow cotter pin.

http://www.goferitoffroad.com/products.htm

3. Black Magic Brakes. Drill holes and use inserts with a slit that clamps the insert in with the TRE, $72 for 3 with lock nuts for same reason as the goferit kit.

http://www.blackmagicbrakes.com/site/mobile?url=http://www.blackmagicbrakes.com/Jeep_Co-Op.php

I like the rock equipment kit most at first glance, but find it hard to justify paying that much extra. I would appreciate any opinions/ experience with these kits or a Tie rod flip in general. And lastly, a shameless plug for someone to lend/rent me a reamer if they have done the rock equipment kit.

 

how much lift do you have?
stock 75 knuckles or later disk brake?
PS or man?

I was looking into this when I just gave up.. didn't think there was enough room for decent steering geometry and flex...

 

I have been looking at a kit made in Utah, which is close to me. Only drawback is price.. Here's a link:

http://www.rocky-road.com/cj-high-steer.html

 

Misinformation in their ad. There are other kits that place the tie rod and drag link above the springs. I know, I prototyped and built one such kit and there are others.
Looks like the knuckles have been welded on? Not on my vehicle. It can be done correctly but is not that easy either.

Might check out http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=DANA-44THSA-001
There's Partsmike http://www.partsmike.com/index.php?crn=204
R&P http://pwpinc2.qwestoffice.net/prod_steering.htm

These are all with the right parts bolt on stuff.

 

To the OP, the first kit looks best to me as there is no welding and they include the reamer, which is probably why the cost is higher. You can use the stock tie rod ends and castle nuts which is preferable to me. You can remove the nut and re-use it if in good shape. Not really the case with the self locking nut and depend on it staying tight. Plus the welding on the steering arm bugs me. The link on the last kit didn't work for me so cannot comment.
Others on here have used the first two kits and posted up so you might also try a search here. May get some good feedback that way also.

 

Thanks for the additional info and links. I am not ready to pull the trigger yet. I have recently dealt with R&P, and they are top drawer.. Maybe someday if I get enough coin..

I do hope the OP keeps us updated..

 

I have 3" of lift, I also like the first kit the most, except the cost. I have to replace all my steering components are part of frame off anyway. The weld also concerns me, along with the different nut. It's not so much the self locking but, that the TRE is positioned in the knuckle in a different way. I'll check out the kits posted. A drop pitman arm runs $65-100 so I think the flip is better means to the end.

 

I still need to make this mod myself soon. I've come across enough nightmare stories of folks screwing up their stock knuckles that I'd be willing to pay more for a kit with a good reamer. The first kit on your list looks good.

 

Another thought here, possibly compromising peace of mind/safety over $65-something dollars?
How much would you spend to make sure the rest of your steering, brakes, etc. Are in safe working order?

 

I agree, this kit seems like the real deal. I'm going to setup my steering stock so I can finally get my rolling chassis to the frame shop to check the alignment of all my spring hangers and then flip it down road

Well put. I pretty much had my mind made up, just need the reinforcement from all you more expert jeepers. I'll update everyone when I install the flip kit probably be a month or so. Also, since I'll have a reamer I am willing to lend it to anyone who wants to install the same kit. The reamer is probably go for at least 3 or 4 installs.

Thanks for all the input!

 

I have the Goforit ones on mine, great piece of kit and no issues, I didn't need to weld mine as I drilled slightly smaller than recommended (interference fit) and they were nice and tight. The lock nuts are a modern version used in a number of new automotive fittings and as of yet have not loosened even with heavy offroading

 

I have the goforit kit ......it's about 10 yrs old and they are worn out ..and need to be replaced .. when I bought them they didn't say to use a lock nut ,,,,I have been adding washers to take up the slack ,, and that does work ... they do need to be welded eventually they will wallow out the steering arm .I drilled the required hole while they were on the jeep and that was pretty tough to get straight ..... I found a reverse kit and they sell them for $7 but shipping from Canada was HUGE ,,,,,made them MORE than the goforit kit .

 

I also went with the Big Daddy tie rod and drag link and they are well worth it ,,,,never bent them

 

I would just skip the expensive reamer and shape a die grinder stone to fit the required taper.

 

I went the reamer route and they started off nice and tight, but wallowed out over time and abuse and loosened up. I did get them to tighten back up but i'm sure it won't last. I upgraded my tie rod and drag link as well.
I'm thinking about the MORE insert or the goforit insert method. Would it be best to put the knuckle in a press and drill them? Or drill them out while still on the Jeep?

What I was wondering was instead of welding couldn't a quality industrial epoxy be used to lock them into place?


Btw, if anyone want's to borrow the reamer just cover the shipping and I'll send it to you.

 

If anyone buys the kit with the reamer and wants to sell it when done to offset their costs contact me via pm. Might take some of the ouch out of the cost of the conversion.
My concern with a grinding stone Oldtime is the stone holding an accurate shape during the grinding operation.