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Rick Stivers' T-90 and D-18 rebuild guides?

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Rondog, Jun 27, 2013.

  1. Rondog

    Rondog just hangin' out

    Several years ago, I bought the Rick Stivers VHS tape on how to rebuild a T-90 transmission. Since I'm getting close to actually rebuilding it, I finally watched the tape. In it, he used a wooden dowel rod and some spacers made from EMT conduit for assembling the cluster gears, but he didn't give the dimensions of them (length, OD, etc.). He mentioned that those details were on his website, which was listed on the tape label. Well, my tape label has no website info.

    So, I Googled it. Didn't find HIS website, but found links to his T-90 and D-18 rebuild guides on WillysTech, but those links don't work anymore. So apparently those guides aren't available anymore, at least not on WillysTech.

    My question is - does anybody know where I can find these rebuild guides? And does anybody have the info about the dimensions for the dowel rod and those conduit spacers? Many thanks!
     
    Rondog, Jun 27, 2013
    #1
  2. jasonjp62

    jasonjp62 Member

    jasonjp62, Jun 27, 2013
    #2
  3. Rondog

    Rondog just hangin' out

    Rondog, Jun 27, 2013
    #3
  4. Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Special Tool Manufacture
    [​IMG]

    1a. Tool A is manufactured using a 3/4" wooden dowel rod. Cut it to 6 7/8" long. If the dowel rod has a rough finish, it should be sanded smooth and the ends lightly rounded. I did this using a 2" long drywall screw mounted in my drill. I turned on the drill and screwed the screw into the end of the rod, as soon as it snugged up, the rod was spinning nicely. It made sanding very easy.
    Merl - Make sure you test fit the dowel through the front and rear holes of the case prior to assembling the cluster gear, sanding was required in my case.
    Also check to insure that the shaft is not too long to fit into the case from the inside.
    2b. Tool B is manufactured using a length of 1" diameter metal electrical conduit. Cut it to 2 3/4" long with a hacksaw. It must be cut straight and any burs removed. Note: Do not use plastic conduit because it is the wrong size.
    Merl - Look for conduit labeled 3/4". You might have to buy a long piece, but it's dirt-cheap. Exact measurement of the electrical conduit tools is not critical. Within 1/4" inch of Rick's measure is OK, but do make sure there are no burs on the end of the tool.
    Ok, folks here's the skinny on this electrical conduit. The correct size is as Merl described 3/4", however, you will find that when you measure 3/4" conduit it is 13/16" inside diameter and 15/16" outside diameter. I hope this clears up the confusion. In addition, Merl is also correct about the length of tools A, B, and C. They are going to be used as spacers to hold the needle bearings in place during assembly, so length is not critical.
    2c. Tool C is manufactured using a length of 1" diameter electrical conduit. Cut it to 1 7/8" long with a hacksaw. It must be cut straight and any burs removed.
    2d. Tool D is manufactured using a length of 1" diameter electrical conduit. Cut it to 1" long with a hacksaw. It must be cut straight and any burs removed.
    2e. Tool E is manufactured using a 3/4" wooden dowel rod. Cut it to 2" long. The dowel rod must be sanded to slightly less than 3/4" and will most likely be destroyed in this use. You could also make it from a piece of brass rod but I used the wooden dowel since I already had some left over.
     
    Howard Eisenhauer, Jun 27, 2013
    #4
  5. Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Warloch, Jun 27, 2013
    #5
  6. jasonjp62

    jasonjp62 Member

    That's awesome Chuck, thanks for sharing.
     
    jasonjp62, Jun 27, 2013
    #6
  7. Rondog

    Rondog just hangin' out

    Rondog, Jun 27, 2013
    #7
  8. Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Warloch, Jun 27, 2013
    #8
  9. Rondog

    Rondog just hangin' out

    Thank you sir, you da man! As far as the fire, glad to hear you're OK. Sometimes living in neighborhoods like we do is a good thing, huh? Black Forest was a beautiful area, it's a real shame. Harry Sheets from Midwest Willys, his wife Jo's sister lived in Black Forest, and they lost everything. Harry and Jo came down there to visit and brought my seats with them, I went to her house to pick them up so I didn't have to pay for shipping on three seats. Beautiful house, now it's ashes.
     
    Rondog, Jun 27, 2013
    #9
  10. jbjeeps

    jbjeeps Member 2022 Sponsor

    jbjeeps, Jun 29, 2013
    #10
  11. Rondog

    Rondog just hangin' out

    Very cool, thank you! Since you said Doug is a friend, could you ask him how the seals he installed worked out? I noticed that he drove the seals all the way in, which is not the way I was taught to install seals. I was taught to drive them in flush with the mouth of the hole, not drive them all the way back to the rear of the hole.

    Essentially, they need to seal on a smooth part of the shaft, where there isn't a groove worn into the shaft, but driving them all the way to the back of the hole can make them miserable to remove in the future.
     
    Rondog, Jul 1, 2013
    #11
  12. Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    The seals go all the way in to leave room for the felts. I ended up putting in two double lip seals & the felts wouldn't fit.

    Yeah, I know everybody says don't use the felts but the way I see it they keep the dust/dirt/mud out.

    H.
     
    Howard Eisenhauer, Jul 1, 2013
    #12
  13. Rondog

    Rondog just hangin' out

    Ah, OK.
     
    Rondog, Jul 2, 2013
    #13
  14. QCJeep

    QCJeep Current project DJ-6 1965

    I know it's an old thread but i got the video yesterday. Wow! I converted this old VHS tape into a more modern format and I would like if anyone know how to contact the author's of it? I would like to post the vids on my website without having any copyrights issues. What do you think?
     
    QCJeep, Jul 30, 2015
    #14
  15. Uncle Vin

    Uncle Vin Member 2022 Sponsor

    I think that I would like a copy of the video. A few years ago I tried contacting his widow, with no luck. Then I contacted the WillysTech website administrator, whereupon I was told that it is no longer available, but it may be in the future. I'm more than happy to pay his widow money for the video, but I don't know how to contact her.
     
    Uncle Vin, Jul 31, 2015
    #15
  16. QCJeep

    QCJeep Current project DJ-6 1965

    I know now that Rob Pearson passed away in 2011. Do you know how to reach Rick Stiver? I will be happy to send you a free copy ( DVD ) of it. Just tell me your address. I would like to share the video on my website but i won't do it until I can speak and ask authorization from their owner.
     
    QCJeep, Jul 31, 2015
    #16
  17. Jonbbrew

    Jonbbrew Member

    Wow. I was just prepping myself to do both of these rebuilds for the first time. Would love to see the videos too.
     
    Jonbbrew, Aug 7, 2015
    #17
  18. nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    This an old post but for those that revived it the seals must be driven to the bottom of the bore. If you do not the dust shield on the yoke will contact the seal shell and lock up the transfer case and damage the seal. That is why the housing is machined so deep.
     
    nickmil, Aug 7, 2015
    #18
  19. wheelie

    wheelie beeg dummy 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

    Nick, how do you feel about driving in 2 seals. I read a fair amount of threads where folks do this and, I never hear any negative results. But, seems to me that if all of the sealing surfaces are in good condition, it would be unnecessary. I didn't do it when I rebuild my D18 since I used speed sleeves.
     
    wheelie, Aug 8, 2015
    #19
  20. jbjeeps

    jbjeeps Member 2022 Sponsor

    I've never seen the videos. I'm sure they'd be helpful but they are not necessary. If you follow Stiver's guides, Doug's supplement and the info on this topic on ECJ 5 you'll do fine.
     
    jbjeeps, Aug 8, 2015
    #20