Radiator for V6 conversion in a flatfender

Can anyone suggest a radiator to fit a flatfender with a V6 and more importantly how to configure the mounting of same?

JohnS

 

I think an early V6 cj5 radiator will fit, IIRC.

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-380485/

I used this in my flatty with the 225.

 

I used one from a late 60's early 70's 289/302 mustang

 

Gentlemen,

Thanks for your suggestions. It appears that a '65 Mustang will fit almost as if designed for it. After much surfing, I think i can mount using square tubing and some flat plate.

An early CJ radiator is too tall but is the right width. At least the one I used to measure was.

I would like to use the existing mounts from the original radiator and support the sides with the tubing and plate rather than use the support rod to the cowl.

Thanks,

JHS

 

I started to use a Fiero radiator



But instead used the stock 2A radiator and have had no problems---yet.

 

I used my original 2A radiator also. Had a shop move the lower hose connection and put a modern size filler neck on it. Never had overheating problems.

 

Monza, never used it but know two people running them with 4.3s.

Just happen to see this today at lunch.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1032159

 

I don't see what type of flatty you are working on-MB/GPW, 2A, 3A, or 3B. More options with a 3B and the extra 4.5". I certainly would go with aluminum if possible. Lighter and much better heat transfer than brass.

 

Usually lighter but it's a misconception that aluminum transfers heat better. I used to believe the same thing until I started researching it.


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Yes there is a misconception. Aluminum does not transfer heat near as well as copper. Aluminum transfers heat much better than brass which is what most radiators used to be constructed of.
The K values for aluminum, brass and copper, all in btu/(hr degreeF Ft): 124, 69, and 213 respectively. What this means is aluminum dissipates heat just about twice as good as brass and pure copper would be about twice as good as aluminum. I have never seen a pure copper radiator and doubt that any exist for anything close to a normal automotive application.


On a more practical evaluation, I replaced a Modine 4 row brass cross flow radiator with a 2 row aluminum version of exactly the same dimensions and configuration and the coolant temp dropped 15º F. And the Willys lost 20 lbs. A very definate win-win. However, I will not touch an aluminum radiator with plastics tanks.

 

Most modern non aluminum radiators are a copper core with brass tanks. The core and fins are the part dissipating the heat. This is why a modern non aluminum radiator will dissipate heat better comparing apples to apples. There are lots of other factors that come in to play here. Tube size, fins per Inch, stipples vs. no -stipples tubes, surface area, etc, etc.
Bottom line, match the radiator to the use of the vehicle. Personally I like the weight savings and look of a quality aluminum radiator in a modified vehicle. In recent years the costs have come way down as well so they are very affordable with a little shopping.


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I also have a Griffin rad from Summet but I still haven't finished my swap. I am still trying to find a place for the heater return hose because the new rad does not have a place for it like the S10 the engine came out of. Any creative ideas out there. Thanks Phil

 

Install a "T" in the radiator hose.

 

I want to say there should be one connection on the back of the intake and one on the water pump but there could be variations in years/applications. What connections do you have to your engine?


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When building my flatfender, I went to Speedway Motors for a radiator. They have some very affordable all welded aluminum radiators that fit (both height & width) and work well. Mine cost $130.00 plus shipping. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/search-radiator.html

Phil P - As nickmil said, your s-10 motor should have 2 connections on the motor for the heater. One hose connects to the water pump and the other connects to a fitting at the front of the intake manifold below the upper radiator hose. At least mine does..

 

My 4.3 came out of a 90 S10. the rad in the truck had a nipple on the right hand tank for the return hose. There is no taping in the water pump like my old sb chev. I had thought about a T in the lower rad hose but space is tight and I havent found a 1 3/4 T. Thanks Phil

 

What about changing the water pump with one that is tapped for a heater hose connection. The 4.3 shares the same bolt pattern as the sbc


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I like that idea, in fact I would like to change the hole front of of the engine from the serpentine belt to v belts which would free up some space by the battery tray. Finding old cars to salvage around here is getting tough and winters not my favorite time of year for junk yard diving. Phil