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33's and stock steering

Discussion in 'Flat Fender Tech' started by NoFlyZone, May 19, 2006.

  1. NoFlyZone

    NoFlyZone Member

    Okay, I am trying to decide between getting rid of the springs I just installed. Too tall for my 31's. I want to go to 33's eventually anyway once I go v6 and power steering. How bad will it be with the 33's now with the stock drivetrain and steering?
     
  2. michigan_pinstripes

    michigan_pinstripes I'm not lost, I'm wandering

    Mine functions great on 33's! I have a saggy conversion + 2.5 lift springs. L134 plenty of power. I would suggest 11" brakes in the front at minimum because heavy 33's and steel wheels take alot more to stop from say 45-50 MPH (4-big flywheels spinning :D ).
     
  3. NoFlyZone

    NoFlyZone Member

    I know there is a ton of info on the saginaw conversion on the web. So much it has confused me. Can you reference one that worked for you? What vehicle to get the parts off mainly?
     
  4. w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    In order to do the saggy conversion, you will need at least some welding and fabbing skills because you will need to box the front frame horns.

    You will need a mount for the steering box, and I highly recommend McRuff's kit. It is very beefy, and well-made. Another oprion is the cast-iron mount from a Commando, but they are getting very hard to find. As for the steering box, you have to choose between power/non-power. You will want to go manual with a 4-cylinder because there are no easy solutions to mounting a PS pump on an L- or F-head engine; A V-6 is considerably easier with boneyard parts readily available. IMHO a power setup in a flattie is waaay overkill, because I can spin my '2A's wheel with one finger and i have a manual box from a late CJ. As for the 3-hole box vs. a 4-hole box, either is OK. You just need to make sure that your donor car was either a CJ or a big, heavy GM sedan because a Camaro, Chevelle, Vega etc. is going to have a very quick box that will tend to be squirrely in a short WB Jeep.

    You will also have to either cut off your steering tube and weld a joint onto the bottom of it, or replace the column with a postal column because it will have the correct U-joint on it. Then you will need to fab up a custom steering shaft and notch the left engine mount to clear the shaft.

    That's all. ;)

    Very worthwhile swap IMHO.
     
  5. michigan_pinstripes

    michigan_pinstripes I'm not lost, I'm wandering

    Yeah, what him say :iagree:

    Mine was already done by the PO

    I have to convert my 5 to saggy now so I will learn the process
     
  6. Dybgpn

    Dybgpn New Member

    What year postal columns are the best??? are they just a tube like the original....that bolt to the dash via a strap??
     
  7. Hippo393

    Hippo393 Jeepless

    You can make it work fine as long as your steering components are fresh/rebuilt. My '71 has 33's, a nice lift, and Ross steering. Nary a problem!!

    At least consider trying it w/ current steering before considering the swap. You just might be ok as this happy Jeeper is. ;) If it no werky, then swap away!
     
  8. NoFlyZone

    NoFlyZone Member

    My drag link is held on with safety wire. I will look for the Mcruff kit.
     
  9. Missouri 71

    Missouri 71 Member

    Yesterday was the maiden voyage with my '71 combo (VERY close to your flatty): stock steering (bell crank rebuilt, tight tie-rod ends/king pins/drag link), 3" lift, 33x9.5's and steering stabilizer.
    I must say that I'm thrilled with the results.
    Tracks straight.
    60 mph was excellent.
    I do have some wander on back roads (none on the 4 lane) due to some sector shaft play but that'll be remedied with a fresh V6 Ross box install.

    I'll probably stick to the Ross combo for the foreseeable future since I have the necessary goodies to correct the wander.
     
  10. Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    NoFly - pics of my '51 swap is in the archives here if your interested.
     
  11. NoFlyZone

    NoFlyZone Member


    I would really like to avoid cutting my crossmember. Is your box mounted lower to avoid this?
     
  12. Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Nope - as a rule I mount it up on the frame for strength. This requires replacing the crossmember with 2" Square stock.
     
  13. NoFlyZone

    NoFlyZone Member

    I was looking at this picture.
     
    Last edited: Oct 2, 2007
  14. Spicolli

    Spicolli jeep geek

    Take a look @ herms the OD guys kit it might be what ya are lookin for!
     
  15. Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    That is the old setup that I replaced - the drop as it was didn't hold up well and allowed to much flex when trying to steer. The PO didn't do some things that I believe are critical:
    - Box the front ears
    - redo the bumper area with C channel
    - gusset the back of the mount under the frame.

    If you do those things (like McRuff does) I believe it will work, but my preferance is the other way (which is why it's that way now)...

    I will be glad to give you advice if you need it on a drop setup... I like the way McRuff does his brackets for it and would recommend that.
     
  16. mb82

    mb82 I feel great!

    That mount looks like a cracked frame waiting to happen.
     
  17. NoFlyZone

    NoFlyZone Member

    I thought you had something different but, I saw the red paint and chrome bumper and was a little confused.