Dana 30 Inner C Removal

I need to change the pinion angle because lift springs and caster angle is wrong. To do this I am taking off my outer C’s.

lessons learned.. the weld is slightly inset into the C. Grind it flat all the way around with a nice new square wheel and then cut in with cut off disk at a shallow angle all the way around into the C.
If you do it wrong it looks like this



I believe I can fix this with another weld pass. Also take off your steering knuckles. Just do it or learn why like me.

Also, if you don’t have a real torch… set your propane torch on there and let it heat for about 5 minutes minimum like that.

 

looks fun.... Not really. I may actually attempt this someday on a 3/4 ton Chevy 44 that I have to narrow it for my 3A. We'll see.

 

30’s aren’t bad, 44’s are a bit more difficult, 60’s are a real pita. All are doable at home but I’ve decided on alternate methods.

 

and the alternate methods are....... don't leave us hangin man..

 

My cousin pulled the tubes from the center on the last one he did I think.

 

A huge lathe.

 

We built them that way for years and years. have a special horizontal press and fixtures to do it. Occasionally still do. If you can gain access to a very large lathe it’s much easier.

 

You have been with me on this..http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/111568/

My lathe possibly has the width, but that rotating mass would scare me half to death and rightfully so. Even at like 350RPM it would tear the anchors out of the concrete for sure!

I have to say, I am excited to do this. I have an OX locker thats going in this D30 and its time to fix all the junk up front....Not in the trunk. Thats just fine.

Now, should I make an integrated truss/shock mount and track bar. I have YJ springs under with 4" lift....

 

This seems so much more difficult.are they just plug welded?.. How to cut out that weld?

 

Yes, rosette welds. If you wish to use that part of the tube the welds must be removed with a carbon arc style cutter. I’ve done it, messy, noisy, and hard to get the whole weld removed in the corners. If you don’t need to use that part of the tube a cutting torch works well. The main reason you might want to reuse that section of tube is if you do not want to narrow the housing or machine the tubes for the inner axle seals (front application).
Forget about an end mill, die grinder, etc. I’ve tried and they just became dull or skipped off the surface.

 

Not sure what rpm he runs but I’m guessing about 50 ish rpm. We know a guy.

 

Not what I heard today, something about hammer contact.

 

Somewhere, in a wrecking yard, a Dana 44 is calling your name.

 

I bought the D30 OX locker, so until I break this, if I ever do, Im not doing this....Plus, if I destroy this axle housing, I have another ready to wreck!

You know, when youre beating the inner c off with a 16oz hammer and its just not enough.... to really hit it off into high gear, miss with the hammer and bullseye one of your balls with it. Really gets you going and make you get that 3 LB sledge to make it happen. I fully recommend any of you guys to try that one simple trick.....

Thought I was going to have to go to the hospital for a second, then was like, eh, I got 3 sons. Then finished the job.

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air_carbon_arc_cutting
I thought to myself, why not plasma cut them out.. Well, it seems an Air Arc does not create a layer of oxide like plasma does. That oxide layer causes porosity in the future weld if you dont grind it fully out...
https://weldingweb.com/vbb/threads/711101-Carbon-Arc-Gouging-VS-Plasma-Arc-Gouging

 

carbon arc torch
many years in shipyard . that was one of my least favorite jobs
hundred of hours and just as many feet
we called it the fire breathing job . not only the molten steel / heat / noise and the black carbon dust
it was always overhead or horizontal cuts . weld joints were 100% . V cut was almost a mirror finish
don't miss it one bit

 

Can’t drive a spike with a tack hammer…

 

But it sure can bullseye a ball.

 

I’ve removed the axle tubes from a Chevy 12 bolt for my Chevelle. A friend gave me the housing that had the tubes cut and butchered, but the center housing was perfect. I ended up “drilling” with a quality carbide tipped masonry bit sharpened on a tool cutter jig. Three plug welds per side. I did final grinding with a carbide die grinder. The old engine builder I got my machines from explained why they are so hard. The plug welding melts some of the nodular iron of the housing into the puddle, making a “super alloy”, way harder than the base metal and filler rod.
My replacement tubes were cut from a 10 bolt housing where I cut the iron housing away from the tubes. It still took a big press to separate them, and the same press to install them into the 12 bolt housing.
I don’t plan on ever doing that job again. Those narrow 12 bolt housings in good shape go for more than I paid for my Chevelle!
-Donny

 

I’ve never done a GM so can’t speak for those but whatever Dana/Spicer used was harder than hell. I’m guessing some sort of high nickel rod. We tried the masonry bit too and all it did was cost the money of the bit. We used a carbide die grinder bit to clean up the holes once the tubes were removed before pressing them back together and welding. We went through a lot of bits though as any of the leftover weld or leftover slag would eat them up.