4wd Is Broken

If you want to install a Lock Rite you remove those parts anyway (spider gears), that is why I have the parts. You have an "open" carrier so the Lock Rite will work. I have been extremely happy with mine. Powerlock may possibly be harder to find.
I have the gears but not the cross pin. if you are still interested send me a PM.

 

so, why would I want a locker, AND lockout hubs? maybe a dumb question, but if I don't ask, I wont know.

 

Depending on what I had in mind for the Jeep, I would just install another 27 if one were available nearby. They aren't plentiful, but the demand is also minimal so it should be inexpensive.

 

Lockout hubs completely disengage the front axles, no drag etc....
Locker gives drive to both axles, normally if you lift a tire or lose traction the power goes to the wheel that is spinning and can leave you stuck.

 

The locker is like a limited slip differential, except it's a zero slip differential. When you go around a corner, it forces the outside wheel to turn faster than the inside wheel. Both wheels have to turn at least as fast as the driveshaft. With an open differential or limited slip, the inside wheel turns slower and the outside turns faster, and their average is the speed of the driveshaft.

Locking hubs disconnect the axle from the hub. You don't really need them ... somebody had the idea that it would be nice to let the front axle sit idle when in 2WD. From the factory (through 1973) Jeeps came with flanges on the hubs so that the front axle always turned with the wheels, whether it was powered or not.

 

I wouldn't recommend having a locker in the front with an open rear differential as it will put too much strain on the front axles when you loose traction with the rear. I am assuming you are running an open diff in the rear.

 

Maybe a better explanation is with the locker, the wheels will be traveling different distances but both trying to turn the same number of revolutions in a corner. One wheel/tire has to slip to make up that difference. It puts a rather large loading on the entire front axle assembly if a tire can not readily slip-like on pavement. And hence why lockout hubs a VERY desirable with a front axle locker on a rig that sees any highway use.

 

You guys are more describing a spool or welded diff when talking lockers. Most automatic lockers on the market, lock right included, allow for some differential action through kind of a ratcheting motion under coast or light load situations. Yes, it can be more difficult to steer and load on the front components will be increased, but to say that there's no differential action at all isn't correct. That only happens with a spool, welded diff or most selectable lockers in the locked position.

 

I'd say, if you still have stock steering, no way. It will make you hate life in 4WD.

If you have power steering, go for it.

First things first, flush your ring and pinion and do a thorough inspection to make sure the broken pieces didn't chip or wipe out any of the teeth, especially on the pinion gear.

 

executive decision has been made. going to replace the spidergears this winter. no lockers up front. I am going to use some degreaser to clean out the pumpkin to a shiney sheen, removing all the mud/crud/metal chunks. then, I'm going to use some RTV gasket maker, and put the diff back on, and fill it with new fluid. and then I am going to enjoy it for the last few days of October/early November.

since this past May, with everybody's sage advice and some skilled friends helping me along the way, I have taken my jeep from a trip to the Craigslist pasture back home where he belongs.
I have gotten more drive time out of my jeep this past summer than in the entire 15 years I have owned it. things break. "tits or wheels, it will give you problems" is what I have heard. so, until I purchase the spider gears, I feel this may be my last post for awhile. thanks again for the guidance, clear and concise explanations, and basically just being a cool group of jeep lovin' jeepers!

 

Guess that depends on the application. My experience with a Detroit Locker was that it was essentially a spool if you had your foot in it at all with a sbc powered 3B. And you needed to be very cognizant of its behavior when you did take your foot off. Those lane changes were very real. I am much happier with the beefed Power-Loc in the rear and an ARB in the front. No unruly manners on the road.

 

I have Warn Automatic Locking hubs on my Jeep that I bought from a friend when I started with my Jeep about 12 years ago, they were new then. They seem to work well, they disconnect on deceleration, so you have no engine breaking unless you lock them in. I bought a new Scout in 78 and it came with them, I didn't keep it long enough to make an opinion on them. I only use them to climb up my two track to my garage at the cabin so as not to tear up the turf going to my garage, other than that I seldom us FWD. Has anyone ever had any experience with them, I never see anyone mention them on the blog.

 

how hard would it be to change my axle seal, since I am already knuckle deep in the diff? water got in somewhere, and it wasn't through the diff cover. maybe the fill plug? should I Teflon tape it after when I put it back in?

 

The vent is a prime suspect. I ran a hose with a filter on it to my firewall.

 

It probably came in through the vent. It's common to use a piece of hose to extend the vent up higher. It may also have come in through the pinion seal even if it's not leaking. Most seals are designed to keep the lube in but less so to keep contaminants out. Add to that the sudden pressure drop and contraction of part when they cool suddenly when hitting cold water, then you get what you found. That's why it's good to check the fluid condition after trips that include mud and water.
To change the axle seal means removing the differential case, pressing the seals out of the tubes, then pressing them back in the tubes without damaging them. If you are not getting gear oil migrating out to the knuckles from the differential, I'd suggest leaving them alone. I'd also suggest checking the knuckle lube and wheel bearings as they may have water in them as well.

 

They work great for how you're currently using them. But if you ever go off road and encounter a downhill. make sure they are locked manually. They will unlock on a downhill and can cause loss of control in that situation.

 

do you have a picture of this? any and all improvements I can do over the winter is ideal