1. Registration trouble? Please use the "Contact Us" link at the bottom right corner of the page and your issue will be resolved.
    Dismiss Notice

Choices on lockers

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by 47v6, Jan 14, 2015.

  1. Long&Low

    Long&Low Active Member

    I did get rid of my lockout hubs on the rear d44, and went to drive flanges. And I too want to swap to Ford style internally splined hubs on my front D44.
     
  2. 47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Whats the deal with doing that? Parts list? different hubs? I just have no experience with 4wd ford stuff.
     
  3. nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Simple solution. Get some 27 spline drive flanges and do the same as you were planning but cut 27 splines instead of 10 splines. Stronger and not out anything more than you would be except the 27 spline drive flanges. Someone may have some used ones kicking around. They were used on all the Quadratrack CJ-7's and factory on Intermediates.
     
  4. 47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Ahhh, butt heres the rub.. I may not have the technical ability to cut smaller more numerous splines. I am by no means a machinist, just guy who can sometimes get it done. I pretty much have no hope of making 27 splines that will be uniform and have any quality. Im not even sure i can do 10 splines.

    I started taking apart my extra D44. Started snowing, so I'm taking a break contemplating how badly i don't want to do other house stuff to instead stand in the snow and take apart this axle.

    The D-44 axles from the chevy front end are no joke. full diameter from where it necks down on the 30 spline end all the way out to the yoke.
     
  5. nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Gotcha.
     
  6. jeepermc

    jeepermc Active Member

    For reference- 19 spline D44 is 1.25" diameter. 27 spline Dana 30 is 1.16". Not sure what 10 spline diameter is. Make sure you don't get past the heat treating of the chevy shaft when cutting your splines.
     
  7. jowwo

    jowwo Member

    This is some good reading. I've been trying to decide what to do for lockers in both Jeeps. Dang the $$$ adds up! Looks like the conversation has moved on to the full float part, but I thought I would add to the locker comments.
    I've had a detroit in the back of a short wheel base and it sucked. Even on dry pavement. I've had an ARB and that didn't work out to be very dependable for me. I know they have worked out great for most everybody but somehow mine was special. The only part that I never had problems with was everything outside the diff cover. So for me that left the E locker and the ox. I read as much as I could find on the two and came away with one I was more comfortable with. The ox. Having had good luck with all those little 4mm air lines and the the compressor when I had the ARB, I'm comfortable with air actuating it. The new cover doesn't have the big actuator sticking out of the side of it, just a 90 and an air line, and if you do end up with some kind of internal air leak it's just the cover that needs pulled.
    On the front of the cj5 I'm leaning towards a lunchbox locker. I've had lock rights before and they took abuse like a champion. I never had one break. Much cheaper front option than a selectable and on the street with the hubs unlocked it drives no different than stock. Now to spend a bunch of money. ;)
     
  8. 47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Yeah. Its going to be either OK locker with cable or Elocker. Since my gears are really ugly I need to replace them too. cost savings are out the window unless i just install an open scase with 30 spline spiders. that is 300 bucks to have something i don't even want. 700 bucks more and I can have it all. thats the problem. just little more turns into, "wow i just spent a pile of money".

    The full float aspect is cheap in comparison. I have all the parts and most of you guys probably do too. its just some dana 25, 27 or 30 spindles and the same hubs.
     
  9. nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    So here's some measurements of different spline counts. These were done with a caliper and not micrometer and some were used axles so there may be some variation from new.

    10 spline 1.117"

    27 spline 1.170"

    19 spline 1.237"

    30 spline 1.274"

    I didn't have a 35 spline not in an axle to measure and not gonna bother with a 32 spline, 16 spline, 23 spline, etc.
     
  10. jeepermc

    jeepermc Active Member

  11. jwinsley

    jwinsley Windblown

    Eaton advertises their 19 spline Elocker as being for model years 1964-1970. Why 1964? wasnt the 19 spline Dana 44 around years before that, I believe my rear axle is 1950s era and its a 19 spline.
     
  12. Fly Navy

    Fly Navy Member

    Excellent question! I have a 57 with 19 spline axles and would like to use an Eaton as well when I rebuild it.
     
  13. I know this is an older thread, but I just wanted to add... M cj5 had a welded rear for about 10 years and other than some chirping around corners is wasn't horrible to drive. So, Im guessing that an automatic locker in your jeep wouldn't be bad to drive at all... Especially since our jeep is longer than my cj5
     
  14. 47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Guess I should measure my wheelbase to see if it actually is. I don't even know what I made it to.

    Ok, quick measure says 91~92 inches on ctr.
     
  15. Well my 5 is 80"
     
  16. nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    81" unless you shortened it.
     
  17. I blame my wife....she put it in the dryer and it came out 1" shorter! I was pretty sad... It was my favorite Jeep.
     
  18. 47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

  19. jeepermc

    jeepermc Active Member

    Isn't a 79 model 84"?
     
  20. nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Yup, but sig lines don't show up on my phone so had to make a guess since information was not provided, and this is an Early CJ site :).