On the compression stroke it will push air past your finger/thumb. Exhaust stroke will not.
I used a 6 degree shim to correct from -1 to +5 and the jeep went from a darting white knuckle adventure to driving with one hand.
Clean the hub so you can see everything. With a punch and small hammer, tap the bearing race out slowly and evenly. Don't let the punch ride on...
If you still have the old drums you could see if they fit. It might narrow down the troubleshooting.
It looks like the existing shims are only welded at the one end. If so you can tap the other end down and the weld will break fairly easily. Be...
You can check the points with your test light. An ohm meter is better but a light will work. Remove the distributor cap and turn the crankshaft...
You are correct, you would need to use the matching damper and even that assumes the crank key is cut in the same spot.
I would buy the hub puller and fix what you have. You will need it again sooner or later even if you chose the 5.38 axles. OTC 7394 Hub Puller...
The residual pressure valve is normally in the seat area of the line connection of the MC. Start a self tapping screw in the hole and pull it out...
And while you are out getting new bolts, buy a set of stands before one of those straps break and you get crushed.
If it runs well there, leave it. Unless you use a piston stop to determine the timing mark and indicator are matched and accurate you are...
You only need to add shims if the play is excessive. Mine was within spec and did not need to be shimmed. I marked both the distributor to...
This is the mechanical advance. You should feel resistance when you rotate the shaft and it should return by itself when released. If not then...
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DO NOT WELD THEM! The heat will crystallize the hardened metal and the stud(s) will break off. At most you MIGHT get away with a tack weld.
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