flat towing a spooled cj

or one with a detroid inside, will this work?
i found some no and some yes answers with google:?

iam speaking of 3200 miles there and 3200 back to tn.

now i have open diffs but think i need lockers for the rubicon.
if its ok i would buy some automatic lockers but if its not good for towing i have to buy expensive ones like ox or arb

thx

gerald

 

Why don't you just remove the driveshaft for the 3200 mile flat tow?

 

but the driveshaft dosnt affect the locked axle:?

how the jeep do on tight corners?

gerald

 

CJ5/442 has front and rear lockers, I think he just removes the rear drive shaft and unlocks the front hubs.

On my '64, I have a lunchbox locker in the rear, I just remove the driveshaft and unlock the front hubs (powr-lok in the front)

 

and this work?
cool!!!!!!!

gerald

 

Disconnecting the rear driveshaft doesn't do anything except keep the t-case from turning. Wouldn't matter if you had open diff's or locked. I've towed mine several hundred miles at 65 - 70 mph with a locker (Detroit) with no issues. On a Model 18 , put the t-case in neutral and the tranny (manual) in gear so the tranny doesn't turn. Not sure if an auto tranny is different. IMHO pulling the driveshaft is a waste of time on an Early CJ.

 

I have spent a fair amount of time researching the "spool" issue lately. From what I have learned, it won't hurt anything. A rear locker will not engage without power being applied, so cannot engage under tow conditions, so a non-issue either way.

For 6400 miles I would disconnect the front and rear driveshafts (why put that much wear on the T-case?). BUT I am also in the camp that a Dana 18 can flat tow all day, due to the design. The output shaft & idler shaft are always in an oil bath. This is not the case for center output designs such as Dana 20, 300 or modern chain drive NP type cases. They cannot lubricate the output shaft bearings and seal. The Dana 18 is still superior 80 years after introduction!

My concern was street driving a spool. I posted on several boards, including this one. One of the other boards I posted on and had no less than 14 guys respond to me, all drive the rear spool on the street. Many of them have been daily drivers of spools for years and all said the same thing; "spools are predictable, you always know what you are going to get". Most of the responders preferred the rear spool on the street to a auto-locker because of the unpredictable factor of the lockers. Including quick, spooky lane changes when one bangs into lock..lol. Or the quick 360 in the rain, ice when one decides to lock up on a slippery road. All reported understeer as the only downside of the spool, but all said that you get used to it quickly.

I'm spooling my 57 during the build and will be street driving and flat towing....just make sure both rear tires have EXACTLY the same amount of air in them!

Good luck. With a 6400 mile trip across the great down under, the rear axle of your jeep is the least of your concerns!

 

Looking at Wuze's profile, he has a Model 20 transfer case, since his CJ6 is a 1979 export model.

 

According to the 78 FSM which should apply to Wuze's 79 as well since the drivetrain is the same, the Jeep people of the time recommended you do this:

1. Turn ignition key to off position to unlock steering wheel.
2. Shift transmission and and transfer case to Neutral position.
3. Turn selective drive hubs to LOCK position (if equipped).

This is for recreational towing like behind a motorhome.

 

sorry, i have asked for my c5 with v6, t15 and dana18.

gerald

 

Sorry Gerald, I didn't know that. Please ignore everything I posted and forgive me.

 

if it has a "spool", than i assume its a solid diff, fully locked, no moving parts. it will be engaged while towing. me personally, i wouldn't want to tow or street drive a spooled rear end, but if you do it, and don't mind it, go ahead.

if its a locking diff (like a detroit), it won't be engaged while coasting as mentioned above.

sounds like a good excuse to go with full floating axles and hubs in the rear to me!

 

I disagree, especially with a 3200 mile one way trip planned. The resistance alone from the extra drag could be a lot of extra fuel used for no valid reason IMHO.
That many miles on any transfer case and driveline/u joints will cause a lot of heat and wear, again unnecessarily for the small amount of time it takes to remove 4 nuts and secure the u-joints and driveshaft. Add to that the possibility of a leak developing during the trip unbeknownst to the tower and things could get messy and expensive very quickly. Big difference between towing a few hundred miles and thousands. Wuze, pull the drive shaft, install a full floater kit, or use a trailer. Well worth the effort. Also, when you stop for meal or potty breaks put a hand on the wheel hubs and axles and check for heat. Warm is normal, hot is not.
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More heat and wear than driving 3200 miles?

 

Yes because the powerflow is reversed from what It was designed for. Most Gears are directional as is the design of power flow, oil flow, etc. Run them backwards and more heat and lack of lubrication is generated. Short distances on some transfer cases is fine. Some you can damage or destroy in short order. Just what I've observed in the last 15 years of piecing together other peoples transmissions and transfer cases professionally. Plus what I've experienced and experimented with myself. I've trailered, flat towed, and driven jeeps for many many miles then Torn down the components afterward to see the effects.
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I flat tow my CJ hundreds of miles every summer. For longer trips, I always pull the rear driveshaft, for the reasons Nickmil mentioned. My CJ has tight power-lock diffs and they don't cause me any problem, BUT (and I think this is important) my tow vehicle is an F250 that probably has double the weight of the Jeep. Even if the Jeep decides to act funny the truck has enough mass that it wont really affect anything, and big enough brakes to bring the whole rig to a stop quickly in an emergency.

 

thx guys

i will call my friend to get me a trailer, i think its better.

his f250 diesel dualie will not have a problem with a trailer

thx again

gerald

 

With the price of fuel now you might come out cheaper just buying a jeep when you get to TN, never know!