Am I being dumb or is this for real?

just heared back from the machine shop on the 134 Fhead. $603 for the labor to bore the block and put in new valve guides. $631.77 for new pistons, rings, valve springs, oil pump and seals to rebuild the engine.

I put it all together and it still is going to cost me 1234.77?

ouch - I had budgeted what I thought was high at 700

 

1800 in to my 225 V6.

 

$600 for machining doesn't sound outrageous. Ask for a line-item breakdown.

Did the shop measure the bore taper? Why are you replacing the pistons? Pistons are expensive. If the bore taper is not excessive, hone the bores, fit new rings and reuse the pistons.

 

The piston groves for the rings are whipped acording to the machine shop - too much play.

Welp - I guess I should bring the guy some cash so he can get it done

 

This was my bill in 2005 on my Dauntless when I had it done at a local shop.
I used the Autozone kit that was $354 + tax back then. My total on the above machine work was $538. I had about $1200 total in the rebuild with paint, lube and gasket sealers and such along with a oil pump kit and roller chains.

 

not sure if it is a krage kit or not, it is what teh machinist said I needed

 

1200+ zords to rebuild a 4 banger? No wonder mine ain't done yet....

 

the last f head i heard being rebuilt in Oz cost nearly $4000. it's good to have to import all your parts.

 

The machine work for the Race Jeep motor, just to the block, crank, and rods, cost me $700. That was with a discount. Fortunately I could do the heads myself and all the assembly. The heads would have cost an additional couple of hundred dollars...... You don't even want to know what i have tied up in parts.....

 

I will be bringing the machine shop the cash in the am for the block work. I was told that with the valve guides being replaced, that he would have to grind them I'm replacing both the intake and exhaust. I also have the ability and machinery to do the head work, might see what me doing the valves will be.

once the machine work is done, I can look into the Krage kit.

 

Of course, the last time I rebuilt an engine or had any work done, most of you were probably still in grade school. Didn't realize how long ago it was until I thought about it. At least I already have an engine rebuild kit.

 

I'd respectfully disagree with Bill. Check on what size pistons you can get from Krage though (call!). If your shop is going to bore the block, it will be to a standard size, like 30, 60 or 100 over (30 thousandths oversize in diameter etc). The pistons should be selected to match the smallest standard oversize dimension the shop can achieve with the block material that's still there, not the other way around. The shop will measure the bores and usually can determine what size pistons you will need. However, you don't want to have to send your engine kit back... I'd wait until the boring is actually done, unless you are really pressed for time.

You'll also need to measure the crank and rod journals, to determine if you need standard or oversize bearings. This too needs to be spec'd when you order the kit. Even if no crank grinding is planned, you need to measure the crank, since it's an old engine and could have a reground crank already. I'd magnaflux the crank if it were mine. I presume the shop has checked the block and head for cracks.

The shop will install your cam bearings too - these will come in the kit.

(NB - this is why a good, used engine is almost always the cheapest route to getting your project running. Rebuilding is typically much more expensive than almost any engine you can buy used).

 

X2, you bore the block to match the pistons, not the other way around!!