Power lock: junk or not

My cross shafts had a hole in the center and a pin going through the hole, like the 44 stuff pictured above.

Yea, this thing is junk.

I'll be looking for another one.

 

The pin going through the holes should be flanged. It's the thrust button for the rear axle shafts to butt against so axle bearing clearance can be set. Just like the thrust block on a tapered axle 44. Sounds like it came from a 27 rear from a Scout 80

 

I'd being looking for a Scout axle to source the unit.....much more common to find.
A quick search last night turned up several complete Scout 27 axles with powerloks.....one for $100

 

Here's the one side gear ring. Pretty shot as the worn areas show some pitting so, the wear is probably through the hardening. No sense chancing it IMO.

I found one complete Scout Dana 27, a front axle, with a Power Lock. Dude wants like 400 bucks and has no idea about the condition of the diff. I'll keep searching around.

Yes, the pin that goes through the cross shafts is flanged. I didn't spend a lot of time cleaning this stuff up yet as I became rather dismayed as I learned that I had several pounds of poo on my table and not a half decent device. In fairness, I originally bought it for the ring and pinion and I didn't pay a lot for it. I even think I was told that it may be broken. It was a long time ago. Been in a box on the shelf for a lot of years.

I can't imagine there is any way of checking the internals with out taking the unit apart so, buying used is a crap shoot. I'd sort of like to get this done so I can move to the rear axle and get on the road sometime this spring. I have that T18 to install too. Ahhhh, the snowball effect.

Ed.--- the case halves seem ok, at least where the cross shafts seat. Minimal wear showing here but no ridges or pitting/galling. There is damage to one inside bore (mentioned in another post I had). Aside from that, before cleaning in the tank, they look good to me.

The one side gear is toast. The other seems fine and 3 of the 4 spiders look usable but not great. I would think these should all be replaced as a set.

 

Um,,,, crap I got a whole Power Lock out of an International PU for $50.00. It was the wrong case but I could swap all of the needed parts to get home.

 

OK so.......I understand that the cross shafts should be marked, upon disassembly, so that they go back in their original position when the unit is put back together. I suppose because the parts wear together and should should remain in their original wear patterns or whatever. So, if one would put replacement used cross shafts in his original case, what happens as far as those wear patterns between the parts? Is there an issue with this? Is there work to be done to the parts before mating them together?

I think this is the direction I'm heading.....using my case and used replacement guts (except the clutches of course). Not 100% sure just yet but, there's a 50/50 chance of it.

 

I wouldn't worry about the marking of the shafts or the use of used shafts inside your unit.
Assemble the unit with the parts you have and run it.

 

X2

 

Thank you, gentlemen. I'll update the thread as parts arrive and get put together.

 

Sourced another unit. It all looks good with one possible glitch. Everything inside is in much better condition than was the first unit. Side gear rings are much better and look like the ones pictured earlier as examples of normal wear. Confident with using them. The cross shafts are both in one piece and the spider and side gears look good to me. The axle shaft bores are much better with only one groove cut in one side vs the nasty damage on the one case half of the junk unit. This good power lock also uses the pin through the cross shafts.

The possible glitch: The case half which holds the ring gear has a deep gouge from a ring gear(?) explosion. I see the potential for the piece to break off the case and wreak havoc. Can I fire up the mig and fix this? Should I try to break it off now? Or am I worrying about a non issue?

Also noticed that the bolts that hold the case halves together are slightly different between the 2 units I have. The junk one has hex head bolts. The good one has 12 point head bolts. The hex head bolts are a few thousandths thicker at the the shoulder than the 12 point bolts are.

For reference, the pin for the cross shafts from the junk unit.

Also for reference and comment, the part numbers and, I guess date stampings from each unit, as they appear on the case half.

Junk unit reads: 22477 X 7 31 63C

Good unit reads: 1 15 69A 23337X

Soon to order clutches and bearings.

 

Dave, I'm adding the part number of your new "good" Powr Lok to my list as this is a number I have not seen before. Is this a 4 series like your junk one?
Thanks-Donny

 

It better be! I was told it had 4.27 gears. I don't know how to visually tell the difference between a 3 and 4. I would guess there is a difference in the thickness of the area where the ring gear mounts but, I need to research this. Or the distance from the outer edge to the ring gear mounting surface would be different. I know it's been discussed here before. I just don't remember.

It all looks the same ( by quick visual inspection) as the other case which also had 4.27s.


OK. Here it is, in general terms.

Trac lock | EarlyCJ5.com

 

wheelie, the power locks had 4.88 gears not 4.27 but think both use the same case.

 

Set the case halves side by side with the machined surface of the ring gear flange facing up. They should be the same height. If the ring gear flange of the new one is significantly farther from centerline, like around 3/8" then it is a 3 series case. If they are the same then you are good to go.

 

Yup. The link posted was an explanation by Nick which is what he posted here. Sorry for any confusion. The cases I have are the same height so, I am good. I was thinking jeepcj told me they were 4.27s on the unit I bought from him ( the second, good unit) but, I was mistaken. My bad but, regardless, the 4.27 and 4.88 both use the series 4 case and I am good to go.

Suggestions on a course of action on the damage?

I'm gonna use the hex head bolts at reassembly. Lock tite here as on the ring gear bolts?

 

What Nick said will tell you if they are of the same series.
They are usually marked either AUTO (series III) or marked STD (series IV)

The 1963 and the 1969 Jeep Dana Powr Loks could have been either 4.09, 4.27, 4.88 or 5.38 ratio.
This really depends on the model, make and year of the donor vehicle

If the cases are the same meaning both are series IV Dana 27,
then there is no reason why you cannot use the best pair of case halves.
Case halves normally do not wear, except maybe a little at the ramps. (vee notches)

Do not swap in a single case half because they are machined together as a pair.
Also it is possible to re-assemble the case halves 180* from original machining.
If the case halves do not bolt together smoothly then rotate one of the case halves 180*.

 

Ken,

I have found no such markings on either case. I know they are the same though as series 4, by comparison and knowing what I started with and what I purchased.

Both sets of case halves look good on the ramp areas. Only issue was the nasty gouging in the original piece, mentioned earlier in the thread, and the gouge on the exterior surface of the second case, which I'm concerned about fixing.

All case halves were marked before taking apart.

 

When I blow up that pic it looks like the 1969 case is damaged all the way down to the bolt threads.
Maybe not a deal killer but it's not pretty either.
If you use this case then leave the defect alone and use extra thread locker

Not sure what kinda damage the 1963 case has.
I couldn't find a pic showing it.

You'll want to use whichever bolts seem to fit the best.

 

The damage is mostly at the ear/tab that sticks up above the more solid part of the case half. The gouge DOES extend a bit farther than that tab but, cuts away from the threaded area and is less deep there. After measuring, it looks like there is about 7/16 of bolt that will extend into the undamaged area of the case half. Mostly concerned with that ear coming off. The gouge does not go through into the threads at any point below the ear. Looking down into the threaded area, it appears that there is room for a longer bolt to fit in there to gain some more contact area. That might help.

The other case shows damage inside the axle shaft bore. While it looks really rough, it may not be that bad. The bore is wallowed out and damaged from what seems like a broken axle shaft. Not sure if these pictures will show it very well or do it justice.

 

thanks for posting pics. I got no advice. I have never taken apart a PwRloK before. Anymore pics?