Pielut's Driveline Parking Brake

Here is the caliper from Parts Mike. It's a well built piece, but unfortunately the pads are not replaceable.





My design will place the caliper on the driver's side of the disc. I will use two bolts on the rear bearing cap of the transfer case to hold it in place.
The plan is to use a heavy duty cable to pull down the actuating arm and set the brake.



Here is the first version of the mounting bracket. I think the final version will be pretty close to this. I will use 1/4" plate and a press brake to form the bracket.

 

Don't think you'd ever have to replace those pads anyway. It's not like you would be using the e-brake to stop the Jeep, just to hold it in place. Since you started this thread, I have been in contact with Parts Mike about this kit. We have exchanged a couple of emails but I am going to give them a call next week. They are located about 60 miles from where I live.

 

Jesse at High Angle Drive Line in Paradise , Ca. also makes several kits.......http://www.highangledriveline.com/e_brake.html .

Not to say there is anything unique or fancy here , looks pretty simple, But something to look at.

 

The pads becoming oil soaked would be the only real reason that I could see leading to replacement. I realize that the cause of the problem is another issue that would need to be addressed but, it is a common enough problem to make me consider placing the caliper at the top of the rotor in some attempt to avoid, or at least minimize, the possibility of the pad getting oil soaked.

I've thought about a better t-case mounted brake. This thread is providing great info. When I got to 11" brakes on the rear, i will likely go to/use a factory type e-brake set up from an intermediate since the 11 inchers I have are from that era and set up for the e brake. Not sure I like the cables hanging around which is why I still the transfer case disc brake set up as a possibility.

I've considered some sort of pin type set up that would go into the face of, or through, the rotor. A park pin, if you will. Of course, it could not be used as an emergency brake but, as a parking brake only. Not sure if it's a good or viable idea. It would negate the inherent issues of the leaky D18 soaking a brake shoe or pad and would create a most positive, locking brake. The release of the pin, with the pressure and weight of the vehicle against it, is the issue I have not gotten past, in my mind. A tapered pin is the on resolution I can envision.

 

You could always just install a line lock inline with either your front or rear brakes. Personally I never use emergency/parking brakes... I just leave it in gear

 

line locks are not DOT approved (won't pass inspection in lots of places) and tend to bleed off over time. Just leave in gear? Must be a flatlander

 

I've thought about the line lock thing, too. A Miko Lock or Micro Lok or whatever the brand name is. Every time I consider it, all I can imagine in my little mind is an untimely wheel cylinder failure, caused by the extended time of constant pressure created by the line lock, in a parking situation. Then, the JEEP rolling off a cliff, down the hill, through or into the huge old hardwood forest and into the raging, rain swollen river below.

I do not know if there any validity to my thinking. Probably just my imagination or my tendency to always expect the worst case scenario but, I'll opt for a mechanical set up of some kind, when the time comes for me to do it. Just my .02.

 

Hard to leave it in gear when wheeling on the trail.

Maybe its just me but I almost never use that brake on road, but it seems like my hand is glued to the handle off road.

 

Only recently a flatlander... grew up Jeeping in Colorado and learned at an early age not to trust parking brakes Thankfully I don't have to worry about any pesky DOT inspections! Alot of heavy trucks used to use line locks or mirco locks, as was mentioned. Nice thing about a line lock is that it doesn't freeze up on those cold winter days. I spent more than one cold morning with a road flare trying to unfreeze my high school buddy's parking brake.

 

Got the pedal mounted and ready to go. The trick here was to mount it in a location that would be the least intrusive in relation to the other pedals. It also had to be mounted high enough to allow for full movement when pressed down and the release handle had to be accessible. I made a custom bracket from 2" angle iron for the rear mount. I decided to tack weld the bracket to the body in several places rather than design a bolt on bracket. I also made a doubler plate for the firewall mounting holes.





Firewall doubler



Custom Bracket

 

no pictures only this"You do not have permission to view media within this album "

 

I think I fixed it, thanks sterlclan.

 

looks like it belongs there

 

How do you get the transfer case parking brake drum off? do you need a pulley puller. I disconnected the slip yolk, unscrewed the nut but the flange will not come out, leaving the drum still attached.

 

I had to use a puller to get mine off.

 

20+ years ago I had a shop in same neighborhood rebuild drive lines for me, want to say same guys... Great work.

Hmmm, scope creep #469 opportunity on mine

 

Finally got some time to wrap this project up. The custom rotor turned out great. I used 3/8" thick steel and had it cut with a water jet to 8" diameter.





Here is the bracket and rotor mounted to transfer case without the pads installed.


Pads installed




Here it is completely installed. It turned out great and functions perfectly. I've tested the brake on some steep grades and it has held up very well. There is some misalignment between the cable and the caliper arm, but I don't anticipate any problems. The alignment issue is from mounting the caliper at the 9 o'clock position instead of a 6 o'clock position. I mounted the caliper at 9 to keep it high and out of the way. The cable is a custom built cable from instrumentals.com. It was a bit of a guessing game to figure out the length, but I got lucky. The cable runs along the driver side frame rail and is out of the way. Now to disassemble it all and paint the bracket.





Nothing fancy on the pedal side, just drilled a hole in the floor and bolted her up.