Lock-right question

Hi everyone, I am looking into putting a lock-right in my jeep and was wondering if I could get a few words from the more wise. I've been searching for two days and can not seem to find an answer to what I would think is a simpler question. Just for some background info, I have a 63 chassis, with a tapered dana 44 rear and a dana 30 front (which is why I posted in the intermediate section). Its a dauntless 225/fordt-18/spicer18 drive train. I am currently open, open with 3.73 gears. Oh and I also have power steering and power brakes. I would like to put a lock-right in my dana 30 front axle because i am thinking it would offer more benefit then putting it in the rear. The front axle always seems to pull better because of what I would assume would be the weight of the motor. In addition, you can unlock the hubs and I would imagine you would have absolutely no effect from the lock-right for on-road driving.

Ok, so my question... if you needed 4wd, wouldn't it make sense to drive around with one hub locked and one unlocked? Wouldn't that make on road driving much better and steering a piece of cake? Obviously I would be spending most of the time with both hubs locked, but I was just curious about this because everyone talks about the quirks of a lockright in snow/wet conditions.

Also, with an open differential, the wheel with least resistance spins, so even with one hub unlocked, you would still have a slight advantage over an open dif. Right? One wheel spinning all the time would be better then the wheel with least resistance spinning all the time...Can someone enlighten me? Like I said, I've been searching the whole web for two days. I would much appreciate it along with any other comments or advise!!

 

Bad idea running one hub locked and one unlocked. It will push and pull the front end around like no other.....

 

I would spend the money and get a ARB air locker for the front. You will not like how it binds up down logging roads. It's very nice to unlock the front for drivability. The nice part about the ARB is it makes the front lock in like a spool when locked.

 

Just put the lock right in the back and call it good...

 

^ what he said .
the rear will push the front over and then the open front will help.
what do you plan on doing with this jeep, big rockS?

 

x2

I've been on plenty of trails where a lsd front and open rear would get me no where. When you're climbing you end up with the rear having more weight IMO.

Don't bother with the one hub locked, one unlocked. Just asking for crap to break.

 

Hmm I figured the locked hub would get action when the drivetrain loaded up and the unlocked one would just basically free wheel. keeping the two tires from fighting each other.

I took the interlock pill out of my t-case, would I be able to put the t case in two wheel drive if I had problems making turns or started getting quirky road behavior (with hubs still locked)?

Well, to my next question....I originally wanted to weld my rear end, then found that was stupid and I should put a lock-right in the rear end. But I figured the front end would be better because I assumed it would give more traction plus you could turn it off by unlocking the hubs on the road. What is the advantage of the rear end? Its more predictable? I have a good feeling I'll be doing both in time.

I'm sorry if I sound stupid but I am not as educated in the topic as you all. Thank you for your responses.

 

Like was said above, putting in the front and running one hub unlocked is asking for broken parts. All the load is then on one axle, hub, u-joint, etc and the load is no longer divided between both sides.
I also advocate putting in the rear. When climbing a hill where does the weight transfer to? The rear.
If you can go selectable locker, that is the best option like Scott said but not always feasible. I would still put it in the rear if I could only do one axle.


Sent from my iPhone

 

Ok, sounds like I will put it in the rear.Thank you for all the advice! I wouldn't do a selectable locker in this jeep. Maybe if it was a more hardcore rig with 35's and a v8 (wish I had the time, certainly have the parts). I planned on no lockers at all until I realized I could add a lock right for 200-300 and people are pretty happy with them.

 

Running with on manual lock engage will result in poor handling. Jeep will always want to go to the side you have le lock on. Last winter i happen to me, only on lock get on because of freeze and i wasn't able to drive the jeep safe. I run a lincoln locker in the rear (welded) of my 75 cj5 and i like it. If you want to run 4wd on the road, a selectable locker is the only way. A lockright will lock both wheel if there is power on front drive-shaft. Otherwise when you're on 2wd, even with front lock engage you will drive it like you driving it at the moment.

if you didn't already buy the lockright i would suggest you to ge with spartant locker instead. Same price and almost the same thing but instalation is way easier. I did install both of them in different 4x4 i'll go with spartan cause of easy instalation.

 

I have a LSD in my front and a Sparton locker in the rear, I find it fantastic both on and off the road

 

I ran a lock right for about two years before I sheared the pins. I replaced it with an ARB and haven't looked back.

 

i've had a lock-right installed in the 44 rear of my '75 for 14 years. it gets plenty of off-road use, and i don't find it's on-road manners to be terrible. that was about 20K miles ago.

to the OP, i wouldn't run a L/R in the front, but they work well in the back, and work well in a variety of new england trail conditions.

 

I put the Spartan locker in my front dana 30, so far it has worked great. I have used in sand, hills, dunes, and snow. I do a lot of back roads in two wheel drive so I put a lsd in the rear. About 1k miles since the build and I am happy with it.