Yep, Bought A '68 Cj5(project)

my thinkin:
* I'd be keeping the stock drums on it as is(large drums/overhauled of course)(unless someone talks me into front disc)
*Manual master cylinder on the firewall
*clutch master/slave cylinder
*and a swingarm assembly (the first hard step getting that darned thing)


I'll be running these same tires/wheels as my brothers '62.

 

This is probably the easiest solution for a front disc brake conversion on a Dana 25 or 27 axle.

Geo Tracker/Suzuki Sidekick Disc Brake Solution For Early CJ5's

Mike

 

Too much information guys~ I just don't want to go hunting parts~ I'd just soon go back what was on the jeep originally like I did on my brothers jeep. KISS principle comes to mind.
I wish the headers would get here so I can play with that stuff

 

Honestly, the original drum brakes work fine as long as you aren't jumping the tire size up.

Upgrading the braking system is really the biggest reason to switch to hanging pedals. If you are looking to keep manual drum brakes, then I'd suggest just keeping the through the floor pedals. And I believe a dual circuit master cylinder was standard on V6 equipped models.


For me hunting down the parts is part of the enjoyment of putting together something new from a bunch of parts that weren't designed to work together. But it's not for everyone.

Mike

 

Thank you Mike, this will actually ease my mind~ I can just order stock parts and install

 

Master Brake Cylinder (dual reservoir) Fits 66-73 CJ-5 with 10

 

I was excited and worried when UPS dropped off my new bumper from Amazon. The worry was, will it work? I took a chance at 149.oo(no shipping charges), but I'm excited that I can make this work with a little fabbing.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRHMNS4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It came with a hardware package, and I might can use some of it, or not. But I'll beef the mounting~ it has a couple places for fog lights and of course the winch(if I get a winch), they need to make fake winches.
The frame is square/level, but the body is in need of adjustment when the bumper is permanently installed.
it has room to be space upwards to fill the gap between the bumper and fenders.


There's a small bump on the Saginaw gear which needs to come off so the bumper will go back, at least to the top bolt of the gear mount. and the frame, I had left at about 1" longer than the original, and I can adjust that as necessary


Not sure what this funny looking tab is for, but it has to either be removed or the inside portion of it be shaved off, but it still would serve no purpose for me?


That nub on the gear here, I can't remember, but I think I removed one of these off my '59 chevy truck saginaw gear.



well that's it for today

 

Hi Gang not much going on, however spent a little time on the timing cover, had to drill out one hole due to a broken bolt, but the cover looks good.
it's been really depressing here knowing what's going on in the world~ but I'm staying pretty busy~ but my goodness, it's been hot, humid and cloudy for the past couple weeks~ I need to see the sunshine! I'm wanting to put the frame outside and blast it, but hoping for a nice day to do so

I bead blasted the cover and it came out pretty good





I had posted a pic of a piece of metal which came off of the oil pump impeller shaft~ I found a high volume pump on eBay for about 60.oo, so that's good.

 

Looking at this picture, you may need to either notch the bottom of the bumper to allow clearance for the shackle to swing forward, or run a set of boomerang shackles on the front. I've seen other after market bumpers do this on leaf spring Jeeps. The shackle hits the bumper, limiting the amount of spring movement.

It's hard to tell if there is enough clearance or not from the photo.

Mike

 

Thanks Mike, I'll take a better pic, I've since done a few modifications. I have raised the bumper since, I think it's going to be ok

 

When I removed the "balancer" a while back, I didn't notice a large washer,but I went to blast the parts and noticed this conical shaped thing. Is there supposed to be a large washer too?







Took the distributor apart, blasted it, don't know if I'm going to use it. The vacuum advance doesn't work and the mechanical advance springs were/are very weak. Not sure what dist i'm going to use.


this the roll pin holding the distributor gear in place. Maybe when the impeller oil shaft broke, maybe something got in the oil department and put a little stress, which broke the impeller?

 

I'd either get a reman distributor and use a Pertronix, or go HEI from a quality company like DUI.

 

I put an HEI distributor in my Dauntless about 4 years ago. The engine runs much smoother and with more power than it did before. The installation required a little grinding on the intake manifold and changing the left front intake manifold bolt to a button head cap screw.

There are other high performance upgrades available such a pertronix, but if you need a new distributor anyway...

 

This was kind of fun blasting the covers Just need the color for the Dauntless



found a little slit in the drivers side front(jb weld to the rescue

 

Thanks guys, if using pertronix, does that still use the vacuum/mechanical advance in the stock distributor? I like the smaller distributor, kind of looks thing for me

 

pertronix fits in a delco in place of the points so yes you use the old weights. the boys v6 runs a pertronix no trouble with it .

 

Yes it retains mechanical advance. I would source a complete new distributor, install Petronix and never look back.

 

Regarding my Novak headers, I called today to see what's up, The company is in Utah, but the place I guess where they're made is in San Diego where. The fella said it may be several weeks, just doesn't know. I can accept that due to worldwide circumstances.
So, got busy on my frame; I was going to wetblast it, but I spent a couple hours(or more) scraping dirt dobbers, scum, dirt, tar, etc. Perhaps tomorrow if it doesn't rain, I might be able to get to it. However rain is in the forecast, maybe it'll wash some of the pollen down to the ground, perhaps take some Corona with it!

I have a huge heavy vinyl canvas that I'll put out to catch some of the media~ last time was quite a mess on Robs jeep.




Stores nicely Found out something neat, if I need to adjust the height, I just put the frame on the side, loosen the adjusting bolt, slide the tube, recheck, tighten! Before I was having to use my maxjax of little mule! silly me

 

Hi Howard, The system we bought is from Northern Tools, and they also had the crushed glass in 50lbs bags. It goes through the medial fairly quickly, but not terribly bad. I just poke a hole in the bag and stick the pickup tube in it and GO. I'm using a 3500psi Honda pressure washer. My biggest beef is the aftermath of media. First time Rob bought black crushed glass and I told him not too~ omg, it was terrible. The other media looks more like sand, but is crushed glass.
Overall, despite the mess, it works very well and I'll be using it, but I'm going to make some sort of catch, not sure how yet.

The pic below is Rob putting it to work. Note that it has a long extension, but can be shortened to a normal length. The long extension with the weight of the nozzle becomes kind of heavy. I've since ordered some full Tyveck suits and will be using my fresh air breathing machine with a sandblast hood as pictured in the second picture. Rob was soaked and his Tennis shoes were nasty! lol I'll be prepared when I do it. However my Tyveck suits haven't arrived, so I may be postponing my blast, but still could dry blast, but sure would like the Tyvek suit for added protection. Also the way Rob was doing it, ear plugs are very needed as sand/media finds its way into the darndest places!

Powerhorse High-Pressure Abrasive Blasting Kit — 3500 PSI, 8.0 GPM, Model# 2100439 | Northern Tool

I was handling the pickup tube while Rob was water sand blasting, making sure he wouldn't run out of media. Despite the look, the garbage bag helped a great deal. He was just getting started here and still clean, got pretty messy! I wasn't that close, but still was shaking media from my hair a couple days later!


My brother Robo using dry sandblasting on the steel wheels. The supplied air is piped from the AC'd garage. He's wearing my flight (I look much better in it)suit to keep the media out of his underwear The low/tall jackstands spin freely and making blasting the wheel much easier; less moving around.