When Moving To The 11" Brakes

I got the 11" brakes kits in and am studying the process to determine what tools I might need to buy that I don't already have. OTC Hub puller and HF press are on the list. But in reading and watching videos, I see this thing called 'swedge' that have be removed. I'm gathering this is on all of the early ones (mine are a 58 CJ and 55 wagon) if it still has the 9" (or 11" wagon factory) drums. I saw one video of a guy with a cutting tool but I don't have a large drill press. So what are the other options besides taking the hub/drum to a machine shop. Since I have a wagon and a CJ, I'll have 8 of these to do eventually. I guess grind/cut the rear of the stud then press out from the back?

 

Oops, it's called swagging. Still can't find that video but still looking. Here is a link for a old Ford with pics:Model A Ford Garage ~ Model A, B, & V8 Ford Wheel Stud Swaging

 

Found it, starts at around the 6:15 mark.

 

You have to take it off the get the assembly off. I can see loosening it til just a few threads left to catch the assembly but then you have take the puller off to remove the nut, put it back on then to finish getting it off if the brake pads are catching.

 

So did you have the swagged issue? Or did you just press them out not realizing it was there and put together with no issues?

 

From the pic I saw from the video above and Walcks, you have to remove the hub and drum together, then remove the hub from the drum. No way to remove drum by itself as studs go thru drum then thru hub. If the studs are flared out thru this swagging process and you attempt to press them out, you will widen the hole in both hub and drum. Unless the stud metal moves back to its pre swagged size if it is softer than the hub metal. Maybe I'm missing something here.

 

Nope, you got it.
Do it the right way and cut the swage.

 

"Swedge" is a spelling variant of "swage." Preferred pronounciation "swayj" also "swej." Both spellings are ok.

Re the brake parts holding the drum on, you should manually back off the adjuster until the drum clears the shoes. Once the bond between the taper and the hub is broken, the hub should come off without the puller.

 

This is all good info, but, I don't have a press or a milling machine.
Can this be done with a drill and a BFH? Or is this a job for a brake shop?

 

I have run into this problem before and as you said if you force the stud out without cutting the swedge of there is a good chance the new studs won't fit properly.
Been there done that.Then the welder comes out to tack the studs in place. Not good. Either obtain the cutter or have a machine shop do the work.
Should be no problem to pop the rear hub and drum off and take them to the shop unless you happen to live ................. . The front drums may be swedged as well . mike

 

If you are not reusing the old drums they can be popped out with a brass drift. Swage cutters work also but you won't ever use one again. Very likely that yours has been apart sometime in the last 60 years and put back together with different studs or drilled out drums. It might not even be an issue for you.

 

Couple questions. So I assume, the new 11" drums go back the same way, hub to the outside? When adjusting the factory brakes to loosen up the shoes, which way is loosening vs tightening? Same for both sides or opposite.

 

Mmm. Kinda think you're going to have the swage cut or else risk damaging the hub.

Do the 9" brakes have a star wheel? If so, try one direction. If the shoes tighten, go the other way. Manual adjusters should be the same direction right and left. Automatic adjusters are handed.

Hopefully you can put the drums on the outside of the hub, but maybe not. Put a backing plate, slide the hub on and see if the drums fit on the outside. Wait till you know the assembly order to install the studs.