Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by ITLKSEZ, Aug 20, 2015.
Duh! I'm no fool, I watched it with my welding helmet on.
When you get a chance - no worries if time isn't available - mind drawing out the path of the weave? cheers
I used my kids’ drawing app on my phone.
I couldn’t show speed on the playback of this app, only location. While welding, I’d adjust speed on the fly for more fill/heat or wire location where it needs it. Also, you’ll notice I alternated the directions of the loops. If you keep the direction the same throughout a weld like this, the backwards drag into the puddle has a different characteristic than the push back out of it. I alternated to keep them equal. Whereas a weld on dissimilar thicknesses, or where you’re welding a vertical plate to a horizontal plate, your pattern might look like a string of cursive letter Es, and you might want the drag on the thicker plate for better penetration, or push on the horizontal plate for a flatter weld on the side that’s more apt to sag or undercut.
I was watching gun . and I thought you were doing a C-E sort of thing
It’s hard to see. Maybe next time I’ll experiment with a light lens, maybe an 8 or 9, just enough to knock down the glare. I don’t think iPhones were made to film welds.
Probably wouldn’t have to worry about undercut with a 7024.
You’d be surprised. One guy that worked for me could somehow undercut anything.
Front bumper is roughed out. It’ll run a recessed fairlead, and it will be mounted to the frame with big rubber bushings (seen on left) to act as a real bumper.
I could have done that weld pass in half the time... I mean I would have done that pass in half the time
Still putting time in on this bumper.
I got the plates bent and tacked in to cap the ends.
Here’s a tip for when welding a pressure vessel, fuel tank, etc..., anything where the welds need to seal. You’ll notice in the above pic that the tacks aren't on the corners. Corners, cold starts, and covering tack welds are the three most-likely spots you’ll have leaks. Getting your tacks in the middle of a run will minimize at least one of the problem areas. For corners, if you can run your weld through a corner (or two) at a time, it will minimize that problem area also.
I’m going to use D-rings as tow points on the bumper. I was concerned about a hard yank distorting the face of the tubing, so I’m welding sections of round stock to connect the face to the back.
These spots line up with the bottom weld on the D-ring mount.
And yes, those D-rings will be getting little bumpers between the ring and the bumper. Anyone who’s ever been in front of someone with them on a trail ride probably still has nightmares of the CLINK.... CLINK CLINK.... CLINK...
I used some self sticky cabinet door bumpers... You know the kind I'm sure.
I thought of you today.... saw a volvo suv (xc60 maybe?) in a nice shade of blue denim, and thought it was a really sharp color that would look great on a jeep. I do like the color you chose, just sayin' that events combined to make me think of your jeep. Good work!
Ok... I have the same exact square... But it doesn't help my welding skills.
Bumper is 98% done, and the winch mount/crossmember just needs to be fully welded in. Both the bumper (air tank) and the vacuum reservoir have been pressure/leak tested.
I added some extra volume to the vacuum reservoir.
I’m going to add some reinforcement straps around the tubing in the frame horns, and also some extra ribbing around the top bumper mount plates. The top mounts are going to take the brunt of a yank.
The camera optics made the bumper look bent; I promise it’s straight.
Just about the time I start to feel ok about the stuff I turn out, you post stuff like that I'm considering pushing my hulk off a cliff....
I like how you have the winch mounted nice and low. You shouldn't have any cooling problems because of the winch blocking the radiator. Also like the D-rings, well and pretty much everything else.
Forgot to add:
I received the turn signal stalk I ordered. The quality is a bit shoddy; it looks like pot metal with really bad castings, but as long as it works.... What I like about this is the high beam dimmer is on the tip of the turn signal. I don’t have room for a foot dimmer switch, so this got me out of a bind. And get this - it’s a factory replacement part for... wait for it... a Volvo truck.
And the tail lights are flush mount LED 3-in-1 units. They were pricey; they’d better last a long time.
After I get the front frame section painted tomorrow, the insulation is going under the tub, then it’s time to drop the tub onto the frame for hopefully the last time in a long time.
I'm looking forward to seeing how you like the led taillights. I'm wavering between those same ones, or (remake 12v) "humvee" ones. I like the look of both.
Good looking tail lights. I notice the company's based in Canada. Any idea if they're manufactured there? That might help explain the price.
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