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Vacuum Heater Control Restoration

Discussion in 'Early Jeep Restoration and Research' started by gotime, Feb 3, 2018.

  1. Apr 9, 2019
    Lee Bennett

    Lee Bennett Banned

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    Going to try mine soon. Thought I saw a thread somewhere about some lube for it. White lube? Anyone know?
     
  2. Apr 10, 2019
    NCRenII

    NCRenII yellow fever Sponsor

    Far Nor Cal
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    white lithium grease?
     
  3. Apr 10, 2019
    Lee Bennett

    Lee Bennett Banned

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    Yep, thought I read that somewhere. Helps seal inner mating surfaces of each output port. ???
    Help somebody. - I will need to do the needed maintenance on mine, too.
     
  4. Apr 10, 2019
    NCRenII

    NCRenII yellow fever Sponsor

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    I just looked one over. It's possible that:
    1) spring between slotted bar and vac valve (non ported side) is missing or weak. Seems a spring is needed to keep bar in frame pivot and also keeps pressure to two halves of vac pot.
    2) bushing inside vac pot (looks like an uncrushed lace eyelet) is worn or not present
    3) lube between haves of vac pot and in inner groove where bushing (eyelet in 2 above) needs refreshing
    4) inside half of vac pot (part that fits against spring and slotted bar) installed 180* out
    5) vac lines attached to wrong port, ports are plugged or vac lines need replaced

    It's fairly easy to remove the vac valve by removing one small hex screw and carefully releasing the spring clip that applies pressure to the bushing (eyelet) on the port side of vac valve. Be careful removing the vac valve to keep halves indexed properly.
    Can someone confirm if there is a spring between the slotted bar and inside half of the vac valve
     
  5. Apr 10, 2019
    Lee Bennett

    Lee Bennett Banned

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    And what type of grease?
     
  6. Apr 10, 2019
    NCRenII

    NCRenII yellow fever Sponsor

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    Inside the "grease" was dry/thick and heavily impregnated with either worn pot metal, graphite, or maybe soot that is present in the valve channels.
    I think the lithium lube would be a fine choice and fwiw, it's applied only to the innermost recess, where the bushing (eyelet) rides between the halves. I do not know if it is needed on all portions of the sliding surfaces. I can imagine dressing the mating surfaces slightly on 500 or 800 wet sandpaper would help with sealing.
    Worth mentioning is in the service manual section u-10 the vac port routing: top valve port goes to vac pot at top of heat box, front of vehicle port goes to the other vac pot, and the rearward port is the engine vacuum supply that line has a check valve in it.
    It may be helpful to have a vac pump (mighty-mite) to test the vac pots and a gauge to verify engine vacuum as well. his mechanical switch is pretty interesting as to how it works. I think a little fiddling and barring heavy corrosion or missing parts, one can be restored pretty easily.
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2019
    Lee Bennett likes this.
  7. Apr 10, 2019
    Lee Bennett

    Lee Bennett Banned

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    500 - 800 may be a little strong. I assume the two halves must hold a good seal. I have some 3000 paper I'll try on mine. Wonder if the surfaces could be lapped. I would just be careful, those are hard to come by.
     
  8. Sep 29, 2019
    Hellion

    Hellion Banned

    Eastern TN
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    :bump: :bump: :bump:

    Any updates to this endeavor?

    I'd be interested in one of the flipper knobs in whatever material they end up being made in.
    Even a rough-cast aluminum "u-fix-em" would do.
     
    Greevesman likes this.
  9. Sep 30, 2019
    NCRenII

    NCRenII yellow fever Sponsor

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    Knob project is an expensive proposition. There is a file that can be taken to your local 3-d print shop, or do as I did cut one out of a piece of abs, cut/sand/polish to final shape and finish, drill for shaft and drill and tap for a set screw. There is an item that needs to be dowe with either option. As the shaft has a flat a steel, brass, or aluminum round has to be cut and slid into the drilled hole so that when the set screw is installed and set, it will press the "shaved round" onto the shaft to keep it in place. A small dimple or flat will also keep the round from allowing the shaft and "shaved round" to slip and rotate inside the knob.
     
  10. Oct 1, 2019
    NCRenII

    NCRenII yellow fever Sponsor

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    Anyone looking for a heater fan knob can get one 3D printed local to them with a file I can sen you. PM me with your email and I will send the file.
    The format is .stl so I cannot make it an attachment here (only allows picture files).
     
    Hellion likes this.
  11. Oct 1, 2019
    Focker

    Focker That's what I do, I know things and I fix stuff. Staff Member Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Tri-Cities WA
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    Try uploading it to "Resources".
     

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