Transmission installation

Installing a transmission:

1 - Bolt bellhousing to engine, install transmission

2 - Bolt bellhousing to transmission, install as a unit

I've put my T-14 back in using the first method a few times, pretty easy with a small transmission. Now I'm wondering which way to go with the SM465.

 

Is this with the body on or off?

The SM 465 is heavy and bulky-----and heavy.

I did mine as a unit all bolted together, but I had the body off.

If the body was on, I think it would be easier to install the tranny separate from below. But then, I have not actually done it so this is strictly opinion.

 

I do it as #2 for the following reasons:
1. It keeps the throwout bearing and the clutch release arm in their proper positions on the front bearing retainer
2. The dowels on the block act as guides for the last 3/4 inch while the pilot shaft engages the pilot bushing in the crank
3. The SM465 modification along with the bellhousing modification make a tight fit, easier to mate these on the floor instead of underneath the Jeep.
4. Less time laying on my back on the floor assembling bell to block, then SM465 to bell, then adapter to SM465, then T Case to adapter, then OD to T Case.

Downside: this whole assembly is heavier, requires a transmission jack if the body is on the frame. If the body is off, I use an engine hoist to manage the weight. Note that the D18 is also attached to the back of the SM465.

Don

 

I did my SM420/D18 as a unit. I removed the floor plate and used a cherry picker through the door to lift it into place. I did it twice that way. Both times were a piece of cake, although the second time I wiped out my headlight switch.

 

Body is on, floor panels are obviously off. I have a floor jack, furniture dolly, and an engine hoist to aid with installation.

 

I assemble the whole thing. Bell housing to and including transfer and cross-member. Roll assembly under jeep with three straps attached, two at rear and one at front at tranny with top shifter removed. Straps are ratchetable. Roll engine hoist in place and connect. The ratchetable straps allow for rotating unit and adjust the front heighth. Simple for me because I am only one old person and no lifting strength.

 

I usually leave the bell on the engine just because it is a lot easier to get at the 4 bolts on the transmission/bell mounting than it is to get to the engine/bellhousing bolts. You can usually use some long bolts in two of the four holes for alignment. Also, if working on the floor, makes for fewer clearence problems just getting it positioned.

 

Here is a photo of my engine----->xfr case assembly hanging from a cherry picker. Note that even with the load leveler in use, the actual pick up balance point is almost at the engine bell housing joint.

This is with a Chevy 4.3, which may or may not weigh the same as your engine.

To try to get all this into a Jeep with the body on is going to be tough due to the lack of space to jockey things around at the firewall/chain lift area.

 

I have a load leveler as well. I might bolt everything together, bolt the load leveler to the trans. cover bolts, and pick it with the hoist to see how it hangs. If its good, I'll put it on the dolly and slide it under, then pick it into place. At least that sounds like a good plan

 

Go to harbor freight and buy a transmission jack. They are pretty cheap and gooe enough for home use. Bought mine for $69. Used it twice. Worked perfect. Now is is a stand for my plasma cutter.

 

When I did my SM465 swap. I did: Bell housing, transmission, adaptor, and then transfer case. One at a time, less weight.

 

When I installed a new clutch kit, I did it like Duffer, with studs in the bell for alignment. I used an engine hoist sticking in the side of the Jeep and some ratchet straps and a floor jack to help level & twist the trans/TC assembly onto the studs.