Toolbox and glovebox lock

This kind of lock is very easy to pry open . The metal lip on the back bends and breaks off . They use these on the coin landry equipment Iwork on and people break these locks all the time but never from the tumbler.

 

OK, I figured it out!

If you do it this way you get a lock, latch, and something to pull on. Plus these are keyed with the same key code from the old WW2 military stuff: H700. One key will fit the glovebox and toolbox. And hey, it's still a real Jeep part

I bought a new MB/GPW keyed glovebox latch from Kaiser Willys Auto Supply like I posted in the earlier post. To make this work, you need an early type door that has a small latch hole and the two studs welded on the back. You dont need the studs, just the smaller hole. The later style doors have a latch hole that's too big. If you don't have an earler one, no fear as Repos are available. Go buy a needle file set and file out the hole larger to the size of the "D" shape needed for the Army Jeep latch.

Do the same thing for the underseat tool box, just take out the "D" ring set up

Now you've got the latch bolted to the door, you just need a catch.


You can't use the existing catch as the lip is too low, but you don't have to do any modification to the dash. You can use the mounting holes to make another bracket like this

This is a backwards upside down shot so you can see how it latches



For the catch on the tool box, just cut a one inch tab on the inside lip where the latch will touch. Don't cut off the tab, just cut to where it bends and then flatten it parallel with the floor. This isn't the catch, as it won't reach; it's just a mounting position for the catch. Cut a rectangle tab out of 14ga sheetmetal, then cut a slot using a drill and the needle files again. Drill a hole through the tab and the flatened lip on the box, put in a small bolt, and there you go. I forgot to put a picture of the toolbox catch. I'll do that tomorrow