This can't be good

I used the NAPA 1-piece rubber seal. Would also use permatex on the bolts. My dad's trick to remove tierod ends: loosen the nut and hit the knuckle with a 1# hammer till the end drops free. Also I am not a big fan of 'knucle pudding' I prefer heavy gear oil (straight 140).

 

Okay, the fog is beginning to clear. I read through Dr. Vern's instructions.
So I'll get some new parts and start putting it back together.
I have a feeling I'll be checking back with you guys as I re-assemble to make sure I'm doing it right. So instead of "measure twice, cut once" this will be the "ask twice, re-assemble once" version. R)
Thanks all for your help. This forum is such a great assest for me. I really appreciate it!

 

I'm working on the install now. With the new bearing cups pressed in there is a slight bump at the knuckle, i.e. the bearing cup is not perfectly flush with the knuckle. Is this correct? I thought I'd check w/ the gurus before I smash those suckers in too hard. Thanks.
View attachment 8401

 

Man, I don't know why I'm having such a mental block with the preloading.
Is the purpose of the preloading to check for proper resistance (or pressure) that the bearing cap is exerting on the bearing cup and knuckle?

 

correct
kinda like doing the wheel bearings, only no nut for adjustment

 

Okay. Thanks. Gotta get me a pickle fork now. I tried the big hammer already.R)

 

perfect time to change out from knuckle bolts to studs. see vernco for that too.

 

One last question (probably)
What should the bearing cap nuts be torqued to? It's not clear to me in my Chiltons. I think it should be around 20lbs??

It looks like I will not be using any shims to get the preload set.

 

Okay. Thanks. I had to crank the bearing cap bolts to about 20 lbs to get the preload in the right range. I ended up w/ just one shim on top and bottom. Almost done. I just need to do a little more re-assembly - and fix the brake line I broke when I took it all apart.
Thanks again.