Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by cj6/442, Nov 30, 2010.
you know,,,,,,,,,,,, I had not tought of that ,
Not always an option-I was cruising down a city street doing the speed limit one day when some b%&#h in a little Chrysler slammed into the back of my Jeep. I have the powder coated black steel diamond plate corners on my Jeep. She put a 1/2" long scuff on one of them, and DEMOLISHED the front of her car!
I love my steel corners!
doug , how thick are yours?
I made my own - it was fairly difficult to get the radius just right but then I'm not a very practiced fabricator. I work (in the office) at a sheetmetal/welding shop where we've got all the good tools/machines.
I would say 1/8" thick is overkill. I think I used 16 gauge on mine which is about 1/16" thick. Way thicker than the stock sheet metal.
I think low weight is an advantage and I built my Jeep based on that idea.
1/4" corners would be impossible w/o a HP radiuser and I doubt any retailer would have one of these behemouths. 1/8" could be done but offyourrockers was the only one I new of and apparently they are no more. I had a friend do it w/ 12 ga steel (I think 1/8") using an O2 bottle and a rosette tip on his torch to heat. Apparently(don't hold me to this), the o2 bottle has near to or correct radiusing for the corners. He did an excellent job so maybe something to it. It could be quickly verified w/ some sheet metal or even a piece of wire to check the radius.
I did here that a tank is the proper radius too,my buudy has 1/4" that was STAMPED into the complex shapes of a early bronco,very trick corners .
Mine measure slightly over 1/8" (actually .150) thick. They're very stout and they fit perfectly. Unfortunately, they've been on my Jeep for about 10 years and I don't remember who made them. I'm not a big diamongplate fan either, but the powdercoated black isn't as gaudy as the aluminum diamondplate-I like the look of them.
I can't find my invoice, but I'm pretty sure I got my 1/8" corners from Warrior. As I recall I had to call them as they don't list the uncut version on the website. 1/8" is plenty sturdy and they cut well with a jigsaw.
I put mine on with 1/4" stainless panhead machine screws.
those look really nice.
Thanks. Getting the corner to fit nice with 1/8" steel isn't easy. It's not like you can just put them up and screw them into place. I probably had 4 or more C clamps on each one trying to get it tight to the radius. Close is all you get. I started at the outside of the curve and worked to the end from there.
and your jeep is about 1000x straighter than mine to begin with,,,,,,,, should be alot of fun .
I just rebuilt the rear corner of mine. It had 3 layers welded on. Cut that
out and formed a new piece out of 16 gauge to wrap from the taillight panel
to almost center of the wheel well.
Found a piece of pipe the same diameter of the outside curve of the rear.
Tack welded the new metal to the pipe, clamped the pipe down, and used
a torch to gradually heat the bend. With a little time, the radius was formed
without any distortion.
Then cut the tack welds, and trim the edges to fit, and weld into place.
Even the 16 gauge is lots stronger than the original. I used 3/8" square stock
to make the underside lip on the fender.
I made mine out of 16 gauge on mine and they work well. But then again from your pic's and stuff you beat on your rig allot harder than I do. I would use 1/4" it should hold up.
I used pipe, a little heat, and clamps to bend mine up.
Hey, it didn't always look that good.
Years ago the back of my A1 was hammered. The body shop that worked on it in the 70's did a great job getting it square. Straight a different story. I wire brushed probably 2 gallons of Bondo off the back. Because I used the one-piece guard, it was 1/2" too wide. I cut it on both sides with my Milwaukee metal circular saw, and tig welded it back together. I did this both sides, twice. That was the only way to get perfect butt joints. The 1/8" kerf x 4 got me my 1/2". I then used the same button head stainless screws that Posimoto did. This is one of my favorite mods that is hardly noticeable. I had to drill for my recessed tail lights and notch to clear the hitch.
I really like those, may need to look at Warrior for a set!
Just found this. I'll call tomorrow for a price.
Just called. Good news, great people. 2 Different items. 902 is 2 individual corners sold in pairs, their price $153.07 per pair plus freight. 902FW is a one piece full wrap around that goes from wheel well to wheel well, their price $305.12 plus freight. Both have no cut outs. Told me to look for a better price from a local dealer. 4WP, Central 4 WD in Sac and Off road Motorsports.
Link to 4 WP, not my favorite to buy parts from though. Could not find them listed on Central.
I guess I need to determine is 12ga. is thick enough. Shows .1046 inch thickness, so a little less that 1/8". My old rock sliders were 1/8 and I bent the heck out of them, new ones are 3/16.
I did mine in 1/4 inch diamond plate Who said 1/4 inch is impossible
I had just emailed Warrior asking for a price on S902. no holes ,1/8" and NO powdercoat $139+ @$25 shipping.
I just now called ORW $146
I found a pair new steel NIB on Craigs for $100 but unsure of thickness ,,,and that one has holes I would need to fill it's for a 7.
just don't know if 1/8" will work for me ....have you seen the Hammers lately? brutal for my little guy.
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