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Starting Issues

Discussion in 'Early CJ-5 and CJ-6 Tech' started by wwise1967, Jun 11, 2016.

  1. Jun 12, 2016
    wwise1967

    wwise1967 Member

    Memphis, TN
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    Jun 16, 2015
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    Belt is new and tight. Electrical systems aren't that high up on my competency list so over explaining that stuff would help me out. So I've got 12.58 constant voltage at the battery. That is with it sitting, idling, everything on/ held at higher rpm. It never changes more than .01 up or down. With key on and on while running I have nothing at the aux post. The only part of the alternator showing any voltage is the output post which matches battery voltage. Readings at the starter while running are 0 at the start terminal, 10.6 at the ignition, and large post matching battery voltage at all times.
     
  2. Jun 13, 2016
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    cordele, Ga.
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    Does you alt or Gen light in the speedo come on with key "ON" and go out after start up?
     
  3. Jun 13, 2016
    GeorgeL

    GeorgeL Member

    Washington U.K.
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    Feb 26, 2016
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    I'm continuously impressed with the knowledge you guys have here!
    Why dont you lot write an easy fix guide for cj5s?
     
  4. Jun 13, 2016
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member Sponsor

    Apopka, Fl
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    There is one called an FSM. :)
     
  5. Jun 13, 2016
    wwise1967

    wwise1967 Member

    Memphis, TN
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    Alt light is illuminated while cranking, then goes out after fire up.
     
  6. Jun 13, 2016
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member Sponsor

    Apopka, Fl
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    Are you basing the battery being dead strictly on no engine turn over? Did you turn the lights on just to check them? Have you tried the lights at night to see if they get dimmer over time? If sitting idling with the lights on at night can you rev it and notice them get brighter?
     
  7. Jun 13, 2016
    wwise1967

    wwise1967 Member

    Memphis, TN
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    Yessir, that is my basis for the idea of the battery being dead. Messing with it this evening has brought up another issue. Lights are dim, even with a full battery, but only work on high beam. If floor switch is kicked down into low it pops itself off after about 10 seconds. It resets itself about 30 seconds after turning off the lights. Floor switch and Headlight switch are new as of about 3 months ago. Since this gremlin has shown up the lights are always dim, doesn't matter rpm.
     
  8. Jun 13, 2016
    PeteL

    PeteL Member Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Hills of NH
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    My best guess... from your symptoms...

    Sounds like (maybe) a bad connection on the main feed between your solenoid and the ignition switch (i.e. from the battery positive, to the vehicle dash), causing a severe voltage drop. Hence the clicking solenoid and dim lights.

    The alternator will see high resistance as a "full" battery, thus not enough charge returning to the battery either. The battery should show 14 volts plus at high idle or more.

    Possibly aggravated by increased resistance as the restricted point heats from the current passing through it, therefore worse after running a while.

    Check for loose or corroded connectors.
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2016
  9. Jun 14, 2016
    eti engineer

    eti engineer Member

    Great Central...
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    If you are reading 12.58 volts regardless of load on the battery, it sounds like your battery is not being charged fully enough. Sounds like a bad alternator, regulator, or wiring in the charging system. If you have a short in the system, or a shorted diode in the alternator, this can do what you are talking about. The amp clamp will tell you a lot, especially if it is sensitive. Even with everything on, you should be able to hit around 14 volts at 1500-2000 rpm.
     
  10. Jun 15, 2016
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    cordele, Ga.
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    The circuit breaker on the end of the headlight switch is protecting the wiring from burning. That breaker is popping on and off as it is supposed to when it see a very high load or short circuit. You have a problem with the dimmer switch or headlight wiring for sure.
     
  11. Jun 15, 2016
    scoutpilot

    scoutpilot Member Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Asheboro, NC
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    I concur. Either a dead short or seriously bad grounds. Not that it applies to your situation exactly but, a recently cured electrical issue on my ’48 CJ2A was a shorted brake light switch. Start checking circuits for voltage and resistance.
     
  12. Jun 15, 2016
    termin8ed

    termin8ed I didn't do it Staff Member Sponsor

    Mason, MI
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    If you run a jumper wire from the battery to the starter solinoid will it click fast still?
    Try it with the key off and see if you get one good click and the starter turning over. Try with the key on but engine off and see what the solinoid will do. Make sure your in neutral...

    Just wondering if your headlight wiring is wired up wrong and causing issues. Make sure you have the regulator wired right.
     
  13. Jun 21, 2016
    wwise1967

    wwise1967 Member

    Memphis, TN
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    Alright. Finally got some time today to mess with it. I started completely over. Turns out I had the ignition switch wired up incorrectly. There are no marks on it as to what post does what so after a process of elimination I found that the grey wire coming from the aux post on the alternator was hooked to start instead of ignition as was the purple wire running to the solenoid. Running 13.8 volts at idle now. Next issue to figure out is the headlight switch. When the circuit breaker pops it turns the truck off. Still only works on high, but very dim. I have triple checked my wires on it and they are all going to what they are supposed to so I'm going to do like the previous issue and start all the way over.
     
  14. Jun 21, 2016
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member Sponsor

    Apopka, Fl
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    That's good news and definitely a step in the right direction. :)
     
  15. Jun 21, 2016
    uncamonkey

    uncamonkey Member

    Greeley CO
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    You fixed one issue and you did it right so on to the next. The circuit breaker may be bad or a bad wire running to it. The headlight issue could be the light switch, dimmer switch, or wires running to the headlights. Loose screw, It might explain a few of us here? Just keep tracing things Grasshopper.
     
  16. Jun 21, 2016
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member Sponsor

    Apopka, Fl
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    Your headlight switch shouldn't be supplying power to the ignition.
     
  17. Jun 21, 2016
    wwise1967

    wwise1967 Member

    Memphis, TN
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    Found what I believe the issue is for the headlight switch wiring but I'm not quite sure how to fix it. Noticed in the corner of the odometer a faint light with the ignition off. I pulled the bulbs out and found that all of the cluster lights and hi beam light are on but very faint all the time. I put its housing against the dash and the light came on real bright. These are wired into the switch where they are supposed to be and nothing else has power to it with ignition off, so I don't know where they are getting power from. Any ideas on what to look for next? I'm fine keeping them all out for now since I have headlights but I would like to see how fast I'm pulling and weaving eventually.
     
  18. Jun 21, 2016
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member Sponsor

    Apopka, Fl
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    The lights should be grounded by being plugged into the speedometer housing.
     
  19. Jun 21, 2016
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member Sponsor

    Apopka, Fl
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    Does a hot wire go directly to the headlight switch and then jumper from that to the ignition switch?
     
  20. Jun 21, 2016
    wwise1967

    wwise1967 Member

    Memphis, TN
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    Yeah, it has a hot wire from the switch to ignition. I believe it is hooked to the battery terminal on the ignition switch. Which I guess if it was battery that would explain constant power.
     

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