Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Buildflycrash, Feb 28, 2018.
The old harness’ refused to stay adjusted tightly. Cynthia approves of the new 4 point harness.
how do you have the over the shoulder strapes anchored in the rear?
I drilled a hole in the floor and put the biggest washer I could find under the bolts.
Assuming I keep working on the 58 wagon, I would like to replace the seats and would like to figure out more than just lap belts...3pt shoulder belt is tricky as there is nothing to mount the high point to without drilling through the body. Been thinking of using some nice corbeau bucket seats (https://www.4wd.com/p/corbeau-moab-...m_campaign=shopping&emlprox=out&ppcfon=1&gp=1) and harness mounting to either the seat bracket or through the floor. Not sure how functional a 4pt harness is for daily driving/cruising. I hate loosing originality, but if its going to be more than an ice cream getting, have got to figure out some sort of comfortable seats. Of all oddity, I kept the OEM low backs with lap belts in the cj - which is probably the one that could use 3 or 4pt harness and highbacks for safety....but the low backs just seem right to me.
For what it's worth the previous owner put these in my CJ6, Rugged Ridge Low Back Front Bucket Seat, Black - Sold Individually | Best Prices & Reviews at Morris 4x4 and they're surprisingly comfortable. And they're not expensive either.
I have the same Tanaka harnesses in red in my 65, mine are bolted to the side of the fender well, but it's the same basic concept. Technically these are not installed correctly (mine too), as they should be anchored no more than 10 degrees below the shoulder. Apparently the risk is of spinal compression during an accident.
For daily use, we usually resort to just the lap belts, but it only takes another 30 seconds to hook up the shoulder belts.
The Tanaka ones are the set that came out. The new (hopefully better) harness' are from Ace's Racing.
4 Point Harness With Ez-Buckle
So I spent an afternoon Monday after work getting everything back into the jeep( floor mats , Tools bags, console spare tire carrier, bikini top). Just needed the one back-ordered spring to get back on the road. I got a call from my office and UPS showed up yesterday with the spring! One look and I knew it was wrong. It had like 7 leafs instead of 4. I ordered a ProComp and they sent an Old Man Emu. A call to 4WD and hopefully the correct spring is on the way - from California! It’s going to be several days before I’m back on the road!
I finally got a replacement spring and installed over the weekend. 4WD .com really screw up by sending me the wrong spring then after I returned it they just couldn't seem to get their crap together and ship a replacement. I ordered one from an EBay vendor and it took a few days to arrive from Vegas.
On the Saturday test drive I noticed some dragging and poor braking from the front left. Upon further investigation I found the I totally screw up the inner wheel bearing by not installing the nuts and lock washer correctly.
Here's the spindle with the remainder of the bearing still stuck on.
So, the wheel hub is shot from the wasted bearing going around in there. It will be a couple days before QuadraTec can deliver the new hub.
I have most of the parts collected for my next big project. Granny 4speed tranny swap. To include T18, hanging pedals, power brakes and hydraulic clutch.
the T18 is an oldie from ‘69 the data tag says. The pedals are from a Jeep YJ at the local wrecking yard. First thing necessary was the Novak adaptor kit to mate the T18 to my Dana 18 TCase. The transmission itself looks to have been recently rebuilt as all the gears and synchros are in excellent condition. The adaptor kit main parts are a new output shaft and an aluminum plate that allows you to bolt the tranny to the TC.
Let’s get started. I ran into problems right away, removing the bearings from transmission wasn’t as easy as I expected. You need a LARGE bearing puller. After several attempts I had to have a local fellow that I used to rebuild another transmission remove the bearings.
be ready for this. And don’t lose any!
Counter shaft and gears stay in this one.
The main shaft is A bit different on the inside as well. I think 3rd stacks on from the rear instead of the front on the new shaft.
I had trouble getting the two shafts back together into the transmission (they came out much easier). I had to "drop the counter shaft" to get room to put the main shaft in. The local transmission guy helped me out again by providing a "dummy shaft". This shaft holds all the bearings and spacers and thrust washers in place when you pull the counter shaft.
The first time I did this all the bearing fell out anyway and I had to reassemble and try again. To get the counter shaft back in it was helpful to lift and wire up the main shaft. This take the weight off the counter shaft making that much easier (not easy just easier)
Pressing the bearings on. Its easy to make the gears/shafts to tight and I had to use a c-clamp to move the shaft back out against the output bearing. (You'll understand if you ever have to build one of these).
I put the top cover back on and it seems to shift thu all the gears just fine. I'm pretty sure I have everything in there correctly but I'll know more when I put it in the Jeep.
Here I am getting the adaptor mounted to the tranny. Had to mark and drill and tap an additional mounting hole in the output side of the transmission. drill press was helpful to keep it all straight. Per the instructions I also put the tap in the drill press and turned the threads in BY HAND.
That was easier than I thought it would be.
I made a similar mistake on my T14 rebuild - the FSM talked about a special tool that you use to set that and it acts as a spacer to protect the 2nd gear blocking rings etc. I had no press, so drove them in with a homemade tool from threaded piping etc...I drove it in too much. I think I did a bit of damage to the grooves on the inside of the blocking ring as 2nd gear is a bit tempermental at times - but not enough worry about it too much. Nice work....
This is helpful! I've got a T-98 rebuild coming in the future and will be using this advice.
As my Dad told me on the first one we rebuilt years ago - That's what Popsicle sticks are for along the side to hold the rings and keep them from being smashed too tight, and you can get them out.
Wasn't sure he didn't just want a Popsicle at the time, till we did it on the second one too. Then I got old enough to drink and we had a finger of whiskey with the Popsicles Memories
good to know...been looking at an sm465 that would need rebuilt, but is for sale cheap that might be a good candidate for the shelf as a future wagon project to go with the sbc.
Next two upgrades. The smaller HEI project and the big one is getting closer to being ready to install.
I may get the HEI in today after work so I can drive it for a few days before our trip to the Smokies in a little over a week.
Where did you get your HEI from? I have been told that the cheap HEI units have a mis-cut drive gear on them that eventually wrecks the cam gear.
hopefully not the bad one as it wasn’t cheap.
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